Zara has launched a ski outerwear line. Depending on your perspective - whether you see the glass as half full or half empty - this news could either be just a drop in the bucket or another case of wtf.
There are several arguments that can be drawn from this news. Do we need another 'outerwear' collection from a brand that has no history of making technical outerwear at all? On the flip side, perhaps Zara is attempting to provide a more affordable option to break down the insufferable cost of entry into snow sports (I'd argue H&M has done this already and with more inclusivity, but, I digress). My final spiel to write: Should fast fashion have a place in the snowsports industry at all?
We've seen this trend before; it's not uncommon for brands to enter the snowsports industry. Anyone in or associated with the industry knows its profitability. Brands like Free People, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada consistently release new collections of ski outerwear, capitalizing on the intersection of the upperclass and skiing.
Zara's new outerwear collection seems like a play on a combination of many 'luxury' brands. The fur-lined hood, belts, one-piece suits, and skin-tight pants are clearly inspired by the European après-ski style. If the aim is to avoid gatekeeping and encourage skiing and snowboarding for a more diverse audience, I would love to support ZARA's outerwear.
On the other hand, what business does ZARA have making outerwear? At first glance, it may not seem as bad as expected. The majority of the outerwear in the collection is "windproof and waterproof," with decent insulation and 15-20k mm waterproofing, and thermals equipped with Thermolite®. However, after digging, I have several concerns.
Personally, I would love to know the technology in their $169 helmet or $99 goggles. How much testing went into the equipment, its reliability, and ultimately, how safe it is. Outerwear and gear in the snowsports industry are not supposed to last just one or two wears; they are meant to be equipment you trust to keep you safe in the elements. Given ZARA's reputation for the longevity of their clothing, will the outerwear - that should protect you from the elements - have the same lifespan?
Another concern is the way the collection has been marketed: "Equipped with RECCO® technology to help rescue professionals find you in case of an accident, avalanche, or getting lost in difficult-to-reach areas." This phrasing is misleading. The marketing imaging for the collection is an issue in itself - aka giving flashbacks to the Madewell rock climbing marketing campaign. Surely there was someone in the long list of people who will have seen these photos before they were published who thought, perhaps, just maybe, we should ask someone who's skied even once before. The random rope, shovels and poles without boots/skis are interesting additions to the Aprés style that they're clearly hoping for.
Without delving into the nitty-gritty of RECCO® technology, it's alarming that ZARA is using the recognizable name of RECCO® in the name of their products, likely to drive sales. While RECCO® reflectors can be a great feature on snow sports equipment, they are by no means a replacement for beacons and avalanche safety training courses.
ZARA is not the only brand taking a fast fashion approach to the snowsports industry. H&M, ASOS, TOPSHOP, and Shein, to name a few, have had previous collections. More recently, the brand Aritzia found itself in similar hot water as Madewell for advertising its signature Super Puff Jackets as ski/snowboard/mountaineering outerwear, even though most of the casual jackets aren't even waterproof.
It might not be breaking news, but it's still alarming. Is there a place for fast fashion in the industry, perhaps to make these extremely expensive sports more attainable? Or will this do more harm than good?
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