Jacob's Ladder
Vertical drop and average gradient:
100metres; 40 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly north-west facing
Ice climb grade:
Grade 1
Route description:
Jacob's Ladder (in the area of NH998032) almost always comes complete with a gnarly cornice at the top. When banked up with snow, it gives a steep entrance. Under some circumstances this may be by-passable, with an exposed traversing entry coming in around the cork.
The line itself is the most obvious in that area - a narrow chimney going straight down through the edge of the crags to the skiers left of Mess of Pottage. On the lower section of the cleft it narrows further with rock walls on either side. Once past this, the whole coire opens up providing a wide area with a steadily decreasing gradient down to the coire floor.
Poop Chute
Vertical drop and average gradient:
50metres; 50 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly north-west facing
Ice climb grade:
Grade 2
Route description:
The Poop Chute was named by the Freeskiing guys presumably because of how you get spat out of it. It is an aggressive little line in the centre of the coire headwall which goes through a break in the rock, coming down at a slight angle to the skier's right.
There is often a large cornice at the top (in the area of NH995029), giving a steep entry. In particular, the whole upper section is extremely steep, highly convex, and just for good measure there's a a drop in the middle of it.
Once past the Poop Chute, the coire headwall opens up more but is still consistently steep. Further down there may be some rocky outcrops to negotiate. Lower down the gradient will decrease to pretty much flat on the coire floor.
Commitment:
High. Very steep, with no easier routes to exit onto.
Route finding:
Fairly difficult. There are many lines and drops in this area, so it would be easy to find yourself going down the wrong one.
Local dangers:
There is usually a large cornice at the top and so there's a potential risk of avalanching.
The upper section doesn't offer you the opportunity of turning or slowing down.
The headwall area is steep and exposed, with potential of avalanching as the snow may be unstable.
Potential for rocks or other material such as ice to become dislodged from the cliffs above.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Commitment:
High. No easier routes to exit onto.
Route finding:
Straight down the chimney.
Local dangers:
There is usually a large cornice at the top and so there's a potential risk of avalanching.
The narrow chimney doesn't offer you the opportunity of turning or slowing down.
Potential for rocks or other material such as ice to become dislodged from the cliffs on either side.
Climbers often use the gully.
The lower flattish runout slopes often conceal large boulders.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover
40 Thieves
Vertical drop and average gradient:
200 metres; 40 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly facing west-north-west
Ice climb grade:
Grade 1
Route description:
This line is to the skier's right of Aladdin's Couloir, and is the first obvious skiable one. It requires a fair depth of snow to complete it and make it skiable, and as such when there is enough it gets pretty banked out, leaving a steep entry at the cornice (approximately NH994029).
Below the initial steep pitch which is between two rock barriers, it takes you onto the main headwall for a short section, and while variations may be possible, the recognised line follows a narrow channel that kinks to the skier's left, which merges with the lower run-out slopes of Aladdin's Couloir.
Commitment:
Moderate to high. After the initial steep pitch, the best you can do to get off the line is to traverse out onto the headwall, assuming there is snow cover.
Route finding:
Moderate. Make sure you get the right entry point, as there are other areas nearby that many mistake for 40 Thieves. In more limited snow, the lower hook is generally obvious.
Local dangers:
There is usually a large cornice at the top and so there's a potential risk of avalanching.
The headwall area is steep and exposed, with potential of avalanching as the snow may be unstable.
Potential for rocks or other material such as ice to become dislodged from the cliffs above.
Ice climbers often use the line.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Aladdin's Couloir
Vertical drop and average gradient:
180 metres, 37� average gradient
Orientation:
Generally facing north-north-west
Ice climb grade:
Grade I
Route description:
This dog-legged couloir is one of the most prominent in the coire, and generally well known amongst the snowsports fraternity.
While the top of the couloir is generally uncorniced, the first 30 or so metres down to the col at the top of Aladdin's Buttress still require care as there isn't much room for turns and as such this section can often be scraped. A fall here could result in being swept round the bowl to the left at the col and onto the Mirror.
At the col, marked by a prominent finger, an obvious ridge of snow runs along to the skier's right. This is the top of Aladdin's Couloir proper, where you turn right.
From here, continue on down to the prominent corner - there is some room to get in some turns to control your speed. Below the kink, the couloir steepens and narrows slightly. It is here there is sometimes a short ice pitch.
Continue on down, and the rock walls will open up into the runout bowl leading to the coire floor. In good snow conditions these runout slopes are long and wide, and you could perhaps ski back to the carpark dependant on conditions.
Commitment:
No easier line to exit onto if you encounter trouble. After the top 30m it is possible to switch onto the more exposed and generally more difficult Mirror at the fingered col, but after this no other option but to ascend/descent the couloir.
People have been known to sidestep back to the top when they encountered difficulties. This is potentially dangerous without aid of an ice axe.
Route finding:
Quite easy. Turn right at the fingered col.
Local dangers:
Narrow upper section leading towards the bowl at the fingered col at the top of Aladdin's Buttress. Risk of being scooped round to the left onto the Mirror.
Looking down from the top, the Couloir line is hidden by a ridge at the bowl by the col, so the conditions below this point will be unknown unless you climbed up first.
Many ice climbers use the couloir as an ascent/descent to/from the plateau. As such, under some conditions and circumstances it may be punched with footprints. Also note that ice climbers may be on the line while you are.
Below the corner, there is a short ice pitch which is steeper and may be scraped and icy.
Rock walls restrict turning space across the slope.
There is a potential risk of dislodged rubbish (rocks, chunks of ice, etc) coming down from above.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Aladdin's Mirror
Vertical drop and average gradient:
150 metres; 45 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly facing west-north-west
Ice climb grade:
Grade 1
Route description:
Begins along the upper Aladdin's Couloir line, above the col.
While the top of the couloir is generally uncorniced, the first 30 or so metres down to the col at the top of Aladdin's Buttress still require care as there isn't much room for turns and as such this section can often be scraped. A fall here could result in being swept round the bowl to the left at the col and onto the Mirror.
At the col, marked by a prominent finger, an obvious ridge of snow runs along to the skier's right. This is the top of Aladdin's Couloir proper, while to the left leads towards the Mirror - this is the way to go, and is the most obvious as it is the way the bowl leads round.
In the event of a fall, there is potential to slide down the Mirror icefall, or even an airborne descent of Aladdin's Buttress.
The Mirror is an exposed zig zagging line, and takes a long exposed traverse which contours above Aladdin's Buttress. After descending approximately 100m near to the end of this traverse is the Mirror-Direct, which you must be careful to stay clear of and avoid - it is not part of the Mirror line.
The traverse will continue to open up slightly, into a steep snow field, but no sooner does it begin to do this than the Mirror sweeps right. This is to the skier's left of the Mirror direct. From here, it drops away to the coire floor.
Commitment:
High - no easier line to exit onto past the col. At the col, Aladdin's Couloir is generally considered easier.
Route finding:
Moderate to difficult - dependant on conditions it may be easy to miss the turn before the final pitch on the Mirror - be careful not to mistake it for the Mirror Direct.
Local dangers:
Looking down from the top, past the col is unknown territory as it's hidden from view - unless you climbed up first. Similarly, the final drop to the coire floor may be incomplete or with an inconsistent run-out.
Ice climbers may be on the line at the same time as you are.
The exposed traverse is on open snow fields which may be unstable, presenting a possible avalanche risk.
A fall could result in an unplanned descent of the grade IV Mirror Direct, or even an airborn descent of Aladdin's Buttress.
There is usually a large cornice at the top and so there's a potential risk of avalanching.
The headwall area is steep and exposed, with potential of avalanching as the snow may be unstable.
There is a potential risk of dislodged rubbish (rocks, chunks of ice, etc) coming down from above.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Aladdin's Mirror Direct
Vertical drop and average gradient:
50 metres; 80 degrees, but very dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly facing west-north-west
Ice climb grade:
Grade IV
Route description:
It's very rarely skied, and when it is done it's only in exceptional winters and by the very best. As far as is known, it was first skied (and snowboarded) in 2001 by the Freeskiing team and Paul Raistrick (on seperate days), when large build ups of snow reduced the ice fall from 40metres to 15metres. Any other descents aren't known of. Ice axes are recommended for security and safety.
The line begins on the Mirror near the end of the main exposed traverse (approx 45 degrees). Descend about 100m on the Mirror, until the top of the ice fall where the gully narrows. It's recommended that you use an ice axe for security here.
Commitment:
Very high. No easier line once on the Mirror Direct.
Route finding:
Moderate to difficult - dependant on weather conditions and snow build-up.
Local dangers:
This is a very steep ice climb, is an ice fall, and the drop is usually at least 40 metres.
Usually rock strewn on the line, and at the base.
Ice climbers may be on the line at the same time as you are.
The exposed traverse is on open snow fields which may be unstable, presenting a possible avalanche risk.
Potential risk of avalanching on the line itself.
There is a potential risk of dislodged rubbish (rocks, chunks of ice, etc) coming down from above.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Central Gully
Vertical drop and average gradient:
135 metres; 45 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly facing west-north-west
Ice climb grade:
Grade 1
Route description:
Central Gully has three entry points, takes you into an area of Coire an t-Sneachda that is rarely visited, and overlooks the upper cliffs that bound Aladdin's and the fluted buttress.
The most common entry point is down the middle, while the left and right hand entries add a little variety without increasing the difficulty. Typically corniced, the entries usually offer a drop, but it is sometimes possible to outflank a cornice through using a different entry point. Sometimes the cornice is little more than a convex snow slope, but this is rarer.
The gully itself generally maintains a constant pitch after the drop-in, down to the coire floor.
Commitment:
Moderate to high. No easier line.
Route finding:
Moderate.
Local dangers:
Potential of avalanching - particularly at the cornice, which can get channeled down the gully.
Ice climbers may be on the line at the same time as you are.
There is a potential risk of dislodged rubbish (rocks, chunks of ice, etc) coming down from above.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Crotched Gully
Vertical drop and average gradient:
135 metres; 51 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly facing north-north-west
Ice climb grade:
Grade 1 or 2. In some conditions can be nearer to a grade 3.
Route description:
Another rarely skied line, generally because of its tendency to be out of condition.
Expect a potentially hefty overhanging cornice to increase the difficulty of the drop-in. Up top it is exposed, steep and narrow, but widens slightly as it goes down.
Generally there is a rocky outcrop or ice fall making this line unskiable.
Appriximately mid-way down, it kinks east, before dropping down to the coire floor.
Commitment:
Moderate to high. No easier line.
Route finding:
Moderate to difficult, dependant on conditions.
Local dangers:
Potential of avalanching - particularly at the cornice, which can get channeled down the gully.
Ice climbers may be on the line at the same time as you are.
There is a potential risk of dislodged rubbish (rocks, chunks of ice, etc) coming down from above.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Goat Track
Vertical drop and average gradient:
150 metres; 30 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly north facing
Ice climb grade:
None
Route description:
The Goat Track is steepest at the top but is wide and open with lots of space, so there is some room for error in soft snow.
At the top, it can be slightly corniced in some areas, but generally isn't across the whole length. However, when the snow builds up it often creates a large 'bulging' convex area which can increase the gradient.
The line generally isn't as steep as Point Five Gully, and lacks the feel of a true gully descent. However, it is quite a reasonable proposition for those looking to introduce themselves to steeper terrain, without the confinements of close rock walls.
Merges into Point Five Gully lower down.
Commitment:
Moderate. Possible to re-ascend or descend on foot, dependant on conditions.
Route finding:
Generally easy.
Local dangers:
The Goat Track is an open snow slope, and so the snow pack may be unstable and therefore has a potential of avalanching.
Potential for rocks or other material such as ice to become dislodged from above.
Ice climbers often use the line.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Merges into Point Five lower down, so people may be exiting via Point Five.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
Point Five Gully
Vertical drop and average gradient:
120 metres; 35 degrees, but dependant on snow build-up
Orientation:
Roughly north-north-east facing
Ice climb grade:
None
Route description:
Point Five is the easiest gully in Sneachda, with the feel of a real gully descent due to the rock barriers on each side. As such, in the right conditions it could make an ideal first gully descent.
It's steepest at the top where a cornice tends to build on the skier's right which, on occassion, can offer a reasonably large drop into the line. This is however generally by-passable on the skier's left, where usually there is only a convex snow formation.
The line is slightly diagonal, with a slight cross gradient, dependant on snow build-up. The gradient is fairly consistent, until where the line merges into the Goat Track. Here, you leave the rock belts, and the gradient decreases but with a cross-gradient, down to the coire floor.
Commitment:
Moderate. Possible to re-ascend or descend on foot, dependant on conditions.
Route finding:
Generally easy.
Local dangers:
The snow pack may be unstable and therefore has a potential of avalanching - particularly up top where the snow builds up the most.
Potential for rocks or other material such as ice to become dislodged from above.
Ice climbers often use the line.
The boulder field at the bottom on the run-out may present some problems if you break through the snow in the gaps between the boulders.
Merges with the Goat Track, so be aware of people potentially leaving the Goat Track while you are descending.
Getting back to the carpark:
Care is required around the boulder field. With sufficient snow cover, it is often possible to ski back to the Coire Cas carpark (NH990059), following roughly the line of the path. If the snow isn't sufficient, there is a well built footpath leading out of the coire (from approximately NH992037) back to the Coire Cas carpark. Dependant on snow cover it may or may not be a long walk.
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