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I bought a replacement pair of 15/18 alpine Gripwalk pedestals from CAST through their email. One of the pedestals is perfectly fine but the other has 3 of the 4 screw holes stripped. I can straight up just drop in and pull out the screws. Would this at all affect the integrity of the binding? All of the screws on that toe piece have play when I wiggle the bottom of the screws which no other pair of pedestals(including the other toe from cast) has. Should I email them? Idk seems kinda sketchy to me to mount that shit
Are you talking about the regular pivot pedestal or the cast pedestal? It it's the regular they're fine. I have plenty of old ones and some newer ones that the screws dont stay in solid by themselves. They'll be plenty secure when mounted to the ski
driftssome pictures or a video would explain this so much better than you have.
first is this a CAST product or did cast sell you left over LOOK parts from their conversions?
do you mean the plastic AFD plate?
or do you mean the metal "pedestal" that the actual toe piece mounts to?
So I ended up getting my answer when I mounted them w quiver killers, there was zero play once mounted so we’re good to go. It’s a gw alpine pedestal from look, not an interchangeable pedestal from CAST, I just emailed them to purchase a set they had lying around. And to your other questions, it’s both. The metal pedestal by itself without and afd has been stripped along with the plastic afd. Typically when people talk about pedestal they’re talking about it with the afd included. I tested it with a seperate pedestal and essentially the inner “thead” of both parts that shrinks the inside diameter has been buffed out somehow. Once they got mounted however there’s zero play in the pedestal and from what I can tell it wouldn’t lead to any noticeable difference in binding screw retention.
tyauerSo I ended up getting my answer when I mounted them w quiver killers, there was zero play once mounted so we’re good to go. It’s a gw alpine pedestal from look, not an interchangeable pedestal from CAST, I just emailed them to purchase a set they had lying around. And to your other questions, it’s both. The metal pedestal by itself without and afd has been stripped along with the plastic afd. Typically when people talk about pedestal they’re talking about it with the afd included. I tested it with a seperate pedestal and essentially the inner “thead” of both parts that shrinks the inside diameter has been buffed out somehow. Once they got mounted however there’s zero play in the pedestal and from what I can tell it wouldn’t lead to any noticeable difference in binding screw retention.
No the pedestal is the metal part only, the AFD is a completely separate part.
I just dumped my box of pivot parts on the floor to see if anything was “threaded” alpine AFDs not threaded but holes are small enough that the screw grabs. Would have to un mount a ski to see about a gripwalk AFD.
driftsNo the pedestal is the metal part only, the AFD is a completely separate part.
I just dumped my box of pivot parts on the floor to see if anything was “threaded” alpine AFDs not threaded but holes are small enough that the screw grabs. Would have to un mount a ski to see about a gripwalk AFD.
Pedestal no threads.
I’m more than aware the pedestal is a separate piece lmao. It’s just a reality that a large number of people call the pedestal w its afd a pedestal. Especially since if you want to swap a gripwalk afd onto a old era fks180/race 155/185 etc, you’ll need to trim some tabs and generally it’s just more convient to take the pedestal and it’s afd off, and swap to a newer pedestal w gripwalk(there’s a difference in corresponding heights over the years). And I didn’t say the threads were stripped. As per my previous response, I put threads in quotation marks and wrote “that shrinks the inner diameter”. Technically it’s not stripped, it’s just been buffed and widened, which is essentially the same as threads getting stripped. Don’t mean to be a dick but I work w pivots quite frequently. I mean here’s just the current workload at the moment
I mean ultimately we can talk abt technicalities but I don’t think it matters bc it’s Newschoolers, not instructables, and nobody besides us cares. Hope you have a good night man, also if somebody’s got extra half moons laying around lmk
Paul.What did cast charge for the pedestals? Might need to convert some old pairs to gripwalk at some point
They were 35+ shipping. The shipping was cheap, like 8 bucks or something around that, they sent them greased too so you can assembly the toe piece right away w/o regreasing. Super quick responses too
driftsmost people on here have a lot of pivots.
What’s going rate on half moons? I might have some if let go of
Doesn’t mean they’ve actually worked w them or understand the intricacies lmao. I still see mfs asking how the white foward pressure tab works big dawg… Going rate is like 20-25 +ship for a pair
tyauerDoesn’t mean they’ve actually worked w them or understand the intricacies lmao. I still see mfs asking how the white foward pressure tab works big dawg… Going rate is like 20-25 +ship for a pair
Spoiler alert about how the white tab works: It doesn't
Paul.Spoiler alert about how the white tab works: It doesn't
Yeah well that’s just incorrect. Unless it’s damaged or you’re adjusting it the wrong way it typically works great. As many look employees and shop techs have said, you need to swivel the heel out of place, then adjust, then swivel back into place to adjust fwd pressure. Regardless of whether u care about the indicator, having the heel of your boot just brush the cup is typically a sign of good fwd pressure and u should just get your release tested regardless. They’re definitely not good, but they’re not just for aesthetics either
