$200 on3p kartels - edge crack :(

They’re fine mount them and go ski

They seem fine I know there is a thread I can try and find how to fix if not talk to @iggyskier he may be able to help you out and get them repaired. I believe you pay shipping and they can repair I forget off hand. They helped with my old set of filthy riches a while back

I rode a pair of kartels with blown out edges for like 8 seasons. they'll be alright.

Just file them down and keep an eye on them ur good

If you pay attention to it, do the opposite and have them on the outside edges. The inside edge sees more weight. If the edge/base is seperating from the core at all, use a toothpick to poke some epoxy (G flex) in the crack, then clamp it and leave it for a day. Works quite well. If there is not any separation, ski on care free. Edge cracks are no big deal. They seem worth it just for the bindings, I think you did just fine.

Ski em till the edge falls out, then keep skiing them

they’ll be alright. biggest thing is avoiding moisture from getting in there and then freezing and expanding then thawing and being loose. if possible commute with them inside your car, store them in a warmer room and even position them so the crack is facing downward. ive ran skis for years with cracks from doing almost nothing and its been fine. also had edges rip right out but on3p makes pretty bombproof skis. i doubt they would help on a pair you bought off marketplace but if you were the original owner i bet they would help out

For something as minor as that I would just put some epoxy in it and thats it. It will probably come out eventually but just add more as necessary until it gets bad

Epoxy and clamps are like PB & J for park skiers. U good bro, just keep that crack on your inside edge

yeah but like what epoxy?? 😏

partyandBSyeah but like what epoxy?? 😏

G/flex® 650 is a toughened, versatile, liquid epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of fiberglass, ceramics, metals, plastics, and damp and difficult-to-bond woods. It is a bit more flexible than standard epoxies and polyester but much stiffer than adhesive sealants. This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. It is ideal for bonding dissimilar materials.

My Uncle is a 30 year park ski technician, He suggests West Systems GFlex Epoxy

thx for outside edge tip, figured there’d be more pressure internally but for rotations or me bumping stuff on outside edge. i can’t fully tell if there’s separation on one, i’ll post a picture in a few days since im out of town but id like to say if anything it’s maybe a mm apart.

-skian-If you pay attention to it, do the opposite and have them on the outside edges. The inside edge sees more weight. If the edge/base is seperating from the core at all, use a toothpick to poke some epoxy (G flex) in the crack, then clamp it and leave it for a day. Works quite well. If there is not any separation, ski on care free. Edge cracks are no big deal. They seem worth it just for the bindings, I think you did just fine.

i keep em in my room on a rack so that’s doable, just got a roof rack for the season so if anyone wants a generic brand folder i gotchu lol. i contacted them for support but made it clear they’re secondhand, seeing if they have any advise on that specific model since i don’t think kartels have been in the game for a few years

partyandBSthey’ll be alright. biggest thing is avoiding moisture from getting in there and then freezing and expanding then thawing and being loose. if possible commute with them inside your car, store them in a warmer room and even position them so the crack is facing downward. ive ran skis for years with cracks from doing almost nothing and its been fine. also had edges rip right out but on3p makes pretty bombproof skis. i doubt they would help on a pair you bought off marketplace but if you were the original owner i bet they would help out

knew the sal image was inevitable, tell your uncle i say thanks

BridgeJump

G/flex® 650 is a toughened, versatile, liquid epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of fiberglass, ceramics, metals, plastics, and damp and difficult-to-bond woods. It is a bit more flexible than standard epoxies and polyester but much stiffer than adhesive sealants. This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. It is ideal for bonding dissimilar materials.

My Uncle is a 30 year park ski technician, He suggests West Systems GFlex Epoxy

Still a good deal smooth those out and go shred

Sad ass sight to see I love the Kartel line they rip so hard

I would ski them with the edges on the inside until they fully rip out. Then you have another set of fresh edges to work with.

keep a hacksaw and maybe 5min jb weld in the car should the edge pull out and cause hang ups in the middle of the day.

DisvoSad ass sight to see I love the Kartel line they rip so hard

They are the Jeff line and you can still order a custom 96

can u elaborate, never dealt with an edge pulling out :(

ajbskiI would ski them with the edges on the inside until they fully rip out. Then you have another set of fresh edges to work with.

keep a hacksaw and maybe 5min jb weld in the car should the edge pull out and cause hang ups in the middle of the day.

stickacorkinitcan u elaborate, never dealt with an edge pulling out :(

Edges are pieces of metal laminated into the ski around the base material. It’s like a really hard wire with a special shape to fit around the plastic sheet. There are little tines with a tshape to increase the surface area of the wire to help the epoxy/glue bond to the metal

Edges crack and grind away from hitting rails, rocks and even tuning. Especially inside edges. It’s pretty normal. Race skis have a limited amount of sharpening cycles they can go through before edges pull out for no reason

ski them with the crack on the inside edges. Eventually with enough water intrusion, more grinding, more cracking, the edge material will want to pop out from rust and stress over coming the bonding strength.

Keep a metal hack saw in the car, you can cut away sections of edge that are sticking out preventing you from being able to ski.

keep 5min jb weld, so that you can seal up openings letting water in causing the edge to pull out even more. Most guys like g flex epoxy because it is more impact and deformation resistant. But it needs time to fully harden.

file little angles (chamfers) into any leading or sharp edges that may get stuck on stuff as you are skiing.

you can still ski with giant sections of edge missing underfoot. 8”+.

Edges are notorious from popping out of tips too. Especially 3/4 wraps if the annealing and shaping process during ski construction was not done well.

then, when you have had enough of it. Swap the skis around and ski the fresh edges on the inside. Like brand new skis.

Many people will specifically alternate which ski is on which foot so that they wear evenly.

bless, thank you. planning on doing the gflex epoxy, should i do that first then jb weld after? or just keep the job handy in case anything happens, i also am wondering if i should clamp or try to bend one of the cracks in more since its protruding a little, any tips regarding how to apply the epoxy or jb weld are much appreciated. :)

ajbskiEdges are pieces of metal laminated into the ski around the base material. It’s like a really hard wire with a special shape to fit around the plastic sheet. There are little tines with a tshape to increase the surface area of the wire to help the epoxy/glue bond to the metal

Edges crack and grind away from hitting rails, rocks and even tuning. Especially inside edges. It’s pretty normal. Race skis have a limited amount of sharpening cycles they can go through before edges pull out for no reason

ski them with the crack on the inside edges. Eventually with enough water intrusion, more grinding, more cracking, the edge material will want to pop out from rust and stress over coming the bonding strength.

Keep a metal hack saw in the car, you can cut away sections of edge that are sticking out preventing you from being able to ski.

keep 5min jb weld, so that you can seal up openings letting water in causing the edge to pull out even more. Most guys like g flex epoxy because it is more impact and deformation resistant. But it needs time to fully harden.

file little angles (chamfers) into any leading or sharp edges that may get stuck on stuff as you are skiing.

you can still ski with giant sections of edge missing underfoot. 8”+.

Edges are notorious from popping out of tips too. Especially 3/4 wraps if the annealing and shaping process during ski construction was not done well.

then, when you have had enough of it. Swap the skis around and ski the fresh edges on the inside. Like brand new skis.

Many people will specifically alternate which ski is on which foot so that they wear evenly.

stickacorkinitbless, thank you. planning on doing the gflex epoxy, should i do that first then jb weld after? or just keep the job handy in case anything happens, i also am wondering if i should clamp or try to bend one of the cracks in more since its protruding a little, any tips regarding how to apply the epoxy or jb weld are much appreciated. :)

Just gflex is good.

jb weld 5 min for emergency at the ski hill. And a hack saw for metal.

I usually pour the two parts of the epoxy into the corner of a ziplock back. Close it. Mix it up nicely. Then cut the tiniest hole in the corner and use it like a baker tops a cake. The goal is to get the epoxy as deep as possible.

clamps are a good idea.

file off w.e else sticks up and out

i appreciate it sm man, was unsure abt a ton but that answered it

ajbskiJust gflex is good.

jb weld 5 min for emergency at the ski hill. And a hack saw for metal.

I usually pour the two parts of the epoxy into the corner of a ziplock back. Close it. Mix it up nicely. Then cut the tiniest hole in the corner and use it like a baker tops a cake. The goal is to get the epoxy as deep as possible.

clamps are a good idea.

file off w.e else sticks up and out

yes

BridgeJump

G/flex® 650 is a toughened, versatile, liquid epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of fiberglass, ceramics, metals, plastics, and damp and difficult-to-bond woods. It is a bit more flexible than standard epoxies and polyester but much stiffer than adhesive sealants. This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. It is ideal for bonding dissimilar materials.

My Uncle is a 30 year park ski technician, He suggests West Systems GFlex Epoxy

WestSystemsGFlexyes

Ahahahahahahahahahaha nice