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Are these Pivots salvageable?

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yungspliffy
Posts: 194 - Karma: 1,906
Picked up some pow skis the other day and went to my garage to grab an old pair of pivot 14s to throw on them. Everything came out smooth except for the last 2 screws on the left ski’s toe plate. Stripped the screws trying to get it out and ended up having to drill thru the screws to the bottom. Turns out whoever mounted them initially put an insane amount of epoxy or something around the screw ? No idea why but as I finally got the screws out I discovered it was essentially never going to turn in the first place.

Long story short, in the process of drilling the screws out I melted some of the plastic on the toe plate and on the underside of the toe piece itself.










The two pieces still connect properly for the most part but there is a small gap due to the fucked up plastic so my plan is to file everything down until it fits. At the moment, one of the screws seats properly and the other doesn’t :



^thats not a crack next to the screw btw just a paint scratch off the surface.

Again I think this is just due to the warped plastic between the screw head and plate which I should be able to file down as well. The real problem is that these are 2015/16 pivots and there is nowhere to buy new plates or parts other than new screws. All the other parts of the set of bindings are in perfect shape so I’d really like to make these work

**This thread was edited on Nov 26th 2023 at 11:24:08pm

**This thread was edited on Nov 26th 2023 at 11:25:05pm
a year ago
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Juviticus
Posts: 438 - Karma: 2,169
Wouldn't recommend but I've definitely seen people ski on worse
a year ago
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yungspliffy
Posts: 194 - Karma: 1,906
JuviticusWouldn't recommend but I've definitely seen people ski on worse

It won’t be a daily ski so I’m hoping it’s not that big of a deal. You think it’s worth trying to epoxy in some of the missing plastic or just screw them into the ski as is ?
a year ago
0 0
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Voyage86
Posts: 990 - Karma: 3,774
yungspliffyIt won’t be a daily ski so I’m hoping it’s not that big of a deal. You think it’s worth trying to epoxy in some of the missing plastic or just screw them into the ski as is ?


honestly you could try and counter sink a big washer in there so it sits flush. could be alittle hard to make work but would make it much safer.
a year ago
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PartyBullshiit
Posts: 4618 - Karma: 19,955
Did you use a Philips head?
a year ago
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yungspliffy
Posts: 194 - Karma: 1,906
Voyage86honestly you could try and counter sink a big washer in there so it sits flush. could be alittle hard to make work but would make it much safer.


I feel like that would mess with the boot alignment in the binding. Unless I’m misunderstanding where the washer would go
a year ago
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yungspliffy
Posts: 194 - Karma: 1,906
PartyBullshiitDid you use a Philips head?

Nah I had a posidrive. The screws in the pic aren’t the ones that I had to drill through obviously. Those were much more stripped before I even touched them
a year ago
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PartyBullshiit
Posts: 4618 - Karma: 19,955
yungspliffyNah I had a posidrive. The screws in the pic aren’t the ones that I had to drill through obviously. Those were much more stripped before I even touched them

Wasn’t going by the pic. Was just curious what you used. Clearly you used the right tool
a year ago
1 0
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Voyage86
Posts: 990 - Karma: 3,774
yungspliffyI feel like that would mess with the boot alignment in the binding. Unless I’m misunderstanding where the washer would go


ya, when i say counter sink it means indented in so it’s not protruding, the screw and washer would still sit flush with the top of the bracket. it wouldn’t mess up allingment
a year ago
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Juviticus
Posts: 438 - Karma: 2,169
I mean honestly with the other three screw holes being fine and at least to top part of the damaged one looking okay, I'd say it's fine just to go on straight like that unless it dosen't sit flush with the ski. Definitely a slightly increased risk of that part of the binding failing so some shops might turn you around and epoxy won't change that

**This post was edited on Nov 27th 2023 at 2:55:45pm
a year ago
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mikem
Posts: 960 - Karma: 9,709
You can buy front AFD plates and im sure a local shop can give you some extra screws.
a year ago
1 0
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yungspliffy
Posts: 194 - Karma: 1,906
Voyage86ya, when i say counter sink it means indented in so it’s not protruding, the screw and washer would still sit flush with the top of the bracket. it wouldn’t mess up allingment


Ah so you’re thinking like a shallow washer and wedge it into the top of the white piece ?
a year ago
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yungspliffy
Posts: 194 - Karma: 1,906
mikemYou can buy front AFD plates and im sure a local shop can give you some extra screws.


I don’t think they sell these AFD plates anymore, just the grip walk ones. It’s a real old pivot
a year ago
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mikem
Posts: 960 - Karma: 9,709
yungspliffyI don’t think they sell these AFD plates anymore, just the grip walk ones. It’s a real old pivot


I’ve heard that the plates work (with some modification) to older pivots. Checked this on a pair of 2012 before and people said it would go.
a year ago
0 0
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jimbobs
Posts: 431 - Karma: 4,420
Having an engineer brain moment with this.

Looking at the black piece, fortunately, the direction you melted absorbs forces pushing toward the tail of the ski. Toepieces absorb forces pushing toward the tip of the ski. (Heavily simplified this, but you get the idea) You could probably get away with patching it up.

Epoxy should be fine, try to fill as much missing area as possible. A washer won't absorb horizontal forces unless you fit it perfectly to the surrounding plastic walls and against the screw (or epoxy it in). What you're going for is a solid column of material under the screw head and around the screw threads, connected firmly to the existing plastic, which epoxy should be able do.

Sand+fill material to the original height so there isn't a gap (or bump) where the plastic can bend under the vertical force of the screw. Try to match the original hole size (going slightly smaller and sanding a little to fit, is better than sizing slightly too big). You might want to make a template out of scrap wood or 3d print something to re-drill the hole in the correct place (if it accidentally gets filled in).
a year ago
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