Need help on Bindings

only jesus can help you now

tomfooleryonly jesus can help you now

Ong

JesusOnTopYo so I got some 2023 Line blends for this season and I’m thinking of getting some look pivots, I don’t know that much about bindings so what binding a would be best for park and soft skis. And if pivots are the best option which ones?

It mostly comes down to your riding ability and preference.

If you’re making a post like this, you should probably get the 12s unless you’re a massive person, that will be more than enough DIN for you. Also all ski bindings are standardized to release under the same forces across all brands and models.

Pivots have some advantages over the traditional Marker style bindings but they’re pretty negligible in your case.

They won’t “save your ACLs” contrary to popular belief, this is a myth. But they could potentially save you from a nasty tib/fib spiral fracture in certain specific situations, at the cost of some performance in the release of the toe.

They look fly and have had interesting designs but most of them are shit now imo.

They have the highest elastic travel of any ski binding, which basically means they “hold on” longer before they release where a different binding would simply release your boot if you landed too far backseat/front seat on a landing, which can be a good or bad thing depending on your skill level/strength. This is mostly good for sketchy no-fall backcountry lines where you can’t risk a pre-release and don’t even want your skis to come off in a crash in general, but has benefits for park skiing.

I’ve personally only rode pivots once so I can’t speak much on this but they have the shortest mounting footprint of any binding and mount directly to the ski supposedly giving it a more natural/consistent flex.

I prefer Tyrolia Attack bindings, they’re far cheaper, come in more colors, have better toe release, maybe lighter not looking it up, more durable/less maintenance than the P12s, much easier to click in, have a relatively low stack height, more adjustability. And the heel piece won’t penetrate your asshole when you land super back seat.

But if it’s mommy and daddy’s money just get the pivots it doesn’t matter that much anyway.

I only ride pivots and dudes I know who have tyrolias tell me they wish they had pivots, that’s all I gotta say

Dildo bindings are the answer

BIIIGZIt mostly comes down to your riding ability and preference.

If you’re making a post like this, you should probably get the 12s unless you’re a massive person, that will be more than enough DIN for you. Also all ski bindings are standardized to release under the same forces across all brands and models.

Pivots have some advantages over the traditional Marker style bindings but they’re pretty negligible in your case.

They won’t “save your ACLs” contrary to popular belief, this is a myth. But they could potentially save you from a nasty tib/fib spiral fracture in certain specific situations, at the cost of some performance in the release of the toe.

They look fly and have had interesting designs but most of them are shit now imo.

They have the highest elastic travel of any ski binding, which basically means they “hold on” longer before they release where a different binding would simply release your boot if you landed too far backseat/front seat on a landing, which can be a good or bad thing depending on your skill level/strength. This is mostly good for sketchy no-fall backcountry lines where you can’t risk a pre-release and don’t even want your skis to come off in a crash in general, but has benefits for park skiing.

I’ve personally only rode pivots once so I can’t speak much on this but they have the shortest mounting footprint of any binding and mount directly to the ski supposedly giving it a more natural/consistent flex.

I prefer Tyrolia Attack bindings, they’re far cheaper, come in more colors, have better toe release, maybe lighter not looking it up, more durable/less maintenance than the P12s, much easier to click in, have a relatively low stack height, more adjustability. And the heel piece won’t penetrate your asshole when you land super back seat.

But if it’s mommy and daddy’s money just get the pivots it doesn’t matter that much anyway.

my shitty bindings pre released at 7 din and my attack 14s dont so maybe its equal in theory but not practice

BIIIGZIt mostly comes down to your riding ability and preference.

If you’re making a post like this, you should probably get the 12s unless you’re a massive person, that will be more than enough DIN for you. Also all ski bindings are standardized to release under the same forces across all brands and models.

Pivots have some advantages over the traditional Marker style bindings but they’re pretty negligible in your case.

They won’t “save your ACLs” contrary to popular belief, this is a myth. But they could potentially save you from a nasty tib/fib spiral fracture in certain specific situations, at the cost of some performance in the release of the toe.

They look fly and have had interesting designs but most of them are shit now imo.

They have the highest elastic travel of any ski binding, which basically means they “hold on” longer before they release where a different binding would simply release your boot if you landed too far backseat/front seat on a landing, which can be a good or bad thing depending on your skill level/strength. This is mostly good for sketchy no-fall backcountry lines where you can’t risk a pre-release and don’t even want your skis to come off in a crash in general, but has benefits for park skiing.

I’ve personally only rode pivots once so I can’t speak much on this but they have the shortest mounting footprint of any binding and mount directly to the ski supposedly giving it a more natural/consistent flex.

I prefer Tyrolia Attack bindings, they’re far cheaper, come in more colors, have better toe release, maybe lighter not looking it up, more durable/less maintenance than the P12s, much easier to click in, have a relatively low stack height, more adjustability. And the heel piece won’t penetrate your asshole when you land super back seat.

But if it’s mommy and daddy’s money just get the pivots it doesn’t matter that much anyway.

No one is reading allat

Vish-shoeNo one is reading allat

ong fam

BIIIGZIt mostly comes down to your riding ability and preference.

If you’re making a post like this, you should probably get the 12s unless you’re a massive person, that will be more than enough DIN for you. Also all ski bindings are standardized to release under the same forces across all brands and models.

Pivots have some advantages over the traditional Marker style bindings but they’re pretty negligible in your case.

They won’t “save your ACLs” contrary to popular belief, this is a myth. But they could potentially save you from a nasty tib/fib spiral fracture in certain specific situations, at the cost of some performance in the release of the toe.

They look fly and have had interesting designs but most of them are shit now imo.

They have the highest elastic travel of any ski binding, which basically means they “hold on” longer before they release where a different binding would simply release your boot if you landed too far backseat/front seat on a landing, which can be a good or bad thing depending on your skill level/strength. This is mostly good for sketchy no-fall backcountry lines where you can’t risk a pre-release and don’t even want your skis to come off in a crash in general, but has benefits for park skiing.

I’ve personally only rode pivots once so I can’t speak much on this but they have the shortest mounting footprint of any binding and mount directly to the ski supposedly giving it a more natural/consistent flex.

I prefer Tyrolia Attack bindings, they’re far cheaper, come in more colors, have better toe release, maybe lighter not looking it up, more durable/less maintenance than the P12s, much easier to click in, have a relatively low stack height, more adjustability. And the heel piece won’t penetrate your asshole when you land super back seat.

But if it’s mommy and daddy’s money just get the pivots it doesn’t matter that much anyway.

Thanks bro, I was thinking of getting tyrolias but wasn’t sure which were superior so I’ll take a deeper look into them, the fact that their cheaper is a big benefit too this shits mad expensive🤦‍♂️

JesusOnTopThanks bro, I was thinking of getting tyrolias but wasn’t sure which were superior so I’ll take a deeper look into them, the fact that their cheaper is a big benefit too this shits mad expensive🤦‍♂️

Whatever you do… don’t get the 11s

vroskiiWhatever you do… don’t get the 11s

Why not

JesusOnTopThanks bro, I was thinking of getting tyrolias but wasn’t sure which were superior so I’ll take a deeper look into them, the fact that their cheaper is a big benefit too this shits mad expensive🤦‍♂️

for sure bro glad i could help you out, definitely go with the tyrolias if money is a factor i promise it won’t make any noticeable difference in performance in most cases.

you should go with the Attack 12 over the Attack 11 as the other guy said because it has a more advanced heel piece component, worth the extra money imo and gives you a tiny bit more growing room in terms of DIN if you start bucking meat. But if money is really tight the Attack 11 will do just fine.

JesusOnTopWhy not

Got them on one pair of wets I have and they suck. Don’t recommend

JesusOnTopYo so I got some 2023 Line blends for this season and I’m thinking of getting some look pivots, I don’t know that much about bindings so what binding a would be best for park and soft skis. And if pivots are the best option which ones?

marker king pin is ur best bet

deke_skimarker king pin is ur best bet

I will look into these too thanks dawg

JesusOnTopYo so I got some 2023 Line blends for this season and I’m thinking of getting some look pivots, I don’t know that much about bindings so what binding a would be best for park and soft skis. And if pivots are the best option which ones?

ugh alright.

Pivots are functionally all the same. Pivot 12 has plastic and pivot 15 and up are all metal. People think the metal is more durable. Really they are built to a max DIN so if you don't set it past 12 then go with the 12s.

Pivot pros:
Pivots have higher elasticity in the heel than any other binding as well as good toe elasticity. This translates to that the pivots are better at not pre-releasing. This translates to that you can set the DIN a bit lower than you might need to with other bindings. This is where the added knee saving safety comes in.
For me on my tyrolias this is a 9ish DIN but on the pivots it's about 8 DIN. I figured this out with trial and error, starting low and going up until there were no issues. The bindings will hold well without you needing to crank the shit out of the DIN. if you're just going to crank the shit out of the DIN anyways then pivots have no benefit.
Only other benefit of the pivot is the low stack height (not as high off the ski). They are the lowest in the biz.

Pivot cons:
hardly any adjustment. If you got new boots you might have to get your bindings remounted. If the homie wants to try your skis, they can't unless they have the same exact boot size pretty much. More expensive than most other alpine bindings. They are a bitch to get on in powder, you need to clear them almost completely.

Other good bindings are tyrolia attacks and salomon/ atomic STH2 bindings.

Tyrolias attacks are the cheapest, low stack height, very adjustable and just a good solid ass binding.

Salomons have the best toe elasticity and maybe the best to put on in powder, but only slightly better than the tyrolia. They are also very adjustable and solid.

All 3 are good bindings just depends what matters most to you.

JesusOnTopI will look into these too thanks dawg

this guy is just trolling those are touring bindings. go with attack 11/12 or marker griffons you’ll be set my g.

Solomon STH 16s are also really great bindings for anyone, they are more expensive than attacks but cheaper than pivots and function just as well as pivots.

People love pivots but everyone I know that rides pivots breaks them constantly, I haven't had issues with the STH's yet. I've had bad experiences with Tyrolia but I don't actually know anyone else who uses them so it could have been a bad pair.

Farmville420Solomon STH 16s are also really great bindings for anyone, they are more expensive than attacks but cheaper than pivots and function just as well as pivots.

People love pivots but everyone I know that rides pivots breaks them constantly, I haven't had issues with the STH's yet. I've had bad experiences with Tyrolia but I don't actually know anyone else who uses them so it could have been a bad pair.

maybe the sth2 13's. I don't think anyone should just default to a 16 DIN binding unless they are setting their DINs at 13+

betzmaybe the sth2 13's. I don't think anyone should just default to a 16 DIN binding unless they are setting their DINs at 13+

Idk, I have the 16s and ride them at a 9. Not sure if this is real but I've had a couple techs tell me that bindings work best when they aren't cranked towards the max, and instead sit in the middle of their range cuz I guess it's a spring mechanism or something. They could have just been trying to sell me more expensive bindings but idk, I just know the 16s are nice and haven't used the 13s, didn't even know they had an STH13 but that's good to know as well lol

Ok, so lately I’ve been noticing a ton of threads asking what bindings would suit them the best and as winter gets closer there’s gonna be a ton more, so I thought it’d be a good idea to have a thread which includes some info to your questions when considering binding choices.







Main things to consider when selecting bindings are skier weight, skier ability, binding price, and type of skiing you will be using it for.







There’s a lot of bindings around so I’m going to stick to the more popular ones and the ones i’ve had experience with.







First off, i’m assuming ability rating of II and III here:







10 Din and below bindings: I would recommend a 10 din and under binding for light weight skiers. Even for a skier who is rates themselves as level III ability, if they are under about 120lbs a 10 din might even be a bit much depending on the min setting of the binding. For reference, a din chart estimates a din of 6 (varies slightly depending on a few factors) for a level III skier between 108-125lbs.







12 Din Bindings: I would usually recommend a 12 din binding for people between 145lbs and 170/175lbs or so depending on ability. For most people on here, a 12 din binding would be perfect. If you’re a more cautious skier and don’t go fast, take impact ect you should really go down to a 10 din or below binder. Likewise if your aggressive skier you can go up, but be realistic. Don’t get an 18 din binding because if makes you look cool. You won’t be thinking its cool when you’re getting knee surgery and can’t ski half the winter.







14/15 Din Bindings: I would recommend a 14/15 din binding generally only for people who are 175lbs+ as well as being a pretty aggressive skier. Basically, if you’re not rating yourself as a level III skier and doing big jumps, cliff hucks, and skiing fast ect, you don’t need it and your better off saving your money.







18 + Din bindings: I would only recommend an 18+ din binding for people who are skiing very aggressively and are reasonably heavy. I would normally only recommend something like this for big mtn skiers where you only want your skis to come off in pretty gnarly bails.







All of these recommendations give you some “leeway” of the max din of the binding for the particular weight at a level lll skier. You don’t really want to be within 2 dins of the max. So for a 10 Din binding, you don’t really want to be setting it above about 8, likewise if it starts at 5 you don’t really want to se it too far below 7. So yeah..check the din range first.









10/11 Din er’s:

-Tyrolia Peak 11 (3-11)

-Rossignol freeski 100

-Look PX 10

-Look P10

-Rossi SAS 100

-head Mojo 11

-Rossi SAS2 110







12 Din er’s:

-Marker Griffon

-Look PX 12/Dynastar PX12/ PX12 jib

-Look P12

-Rossignol FKS 120

-Head Mojo/ Tyrolia Peak/ Amplid (all the same)

-Rossignol Axial 120

-Rossignol Axial worldcup 120

-Salomon STH 12

-Rossi SAS 120

-Rossi Axial2 120

-Rossi scratch 120

-Tyrolia freeflex 12

-4frnt deadbolt 12

-Rossi SAS 110







14/15/16s :

-Rossignol FKS 155

-Rossignol freeski 140

-Rossignol freeski 150

-Rossignol Axial 140

-Marker Jester

-Head Mojo 15/Tyrolia Peak 15

-Look PX14/PX15

-Salomon STH 16

-Salomon STH 14

-Salomon S914 Lab

-Tyrolia Freeflex 15

-Rossi SAS2 140

-Rossi SAS2 140 Ti

-4frnt deadbolt 14







18+ :

-Look P18

-Rossignol FKS 185

-Rossignol freeski 180

-Tyrolia Freeflex 18

-Salomon s920

-Salomon S916 (only goes to 16, but I’d put it up there with p18’s ect)

-rossi Freeski 200

-Rossi freeski2 180

-Rossi SAS2 200







Remember, this is a general GUDIELINE ONLY. There are a huge number of factors to consider. I know people who weigh nothing but are hucking off 60 foot cliffs, so they need a high din binding to keep them in. I know just as many people who like to ski on groomers and take it easy so don’t need a high din binding even though they are heavy. Ask yourself how heavy you are, how hard you ski. Where you ski, what you ski, and what ski your putting it on when choosing a binding.















DISCLAIMER: If you don’t know what you’re doing, do everyone a favour and don’t fuck with your dins. Any adjustments you make are at your own risk. Most shops will check your bindings and set dins for nothing, yes for FREE. So let them do it. Why put yourself in risk you don’t need to.







Why are my skis still pre-releasing? There set at like 16 and I weigh 150lbs !!!??????



A lot of people crank up their dins because there skis keep coming off when in reality, there forward pressures set wrong which just increases knee injury as you need so much force to get the ski off in slower crashes. Bottom line: Go to a store to have it checked out.









I know i haven't covered everything or listed all the binding so feel free to ad. We could maybe make it some kind of binding database.











-Dave










----------------------------------------

Dave

14 years ago
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DHogg

**This post was edited on Oct 3rd 2023 at 4:35:02pm

Farmville420Idk, I have the 16s and ride them at a 9. Not sure if this is real but I've had a couple techs tell me that bindings work best when they aren't cranked towards the max, and instead sit in the middle of their range cuz I guess it's a spring mechanism or something. They could have just been trying to sell me more expensive bindings but idk, I just know the 16s are nice and haven't used the 13s, didn't even know they had an STH13 but that's good to know as well lol

But you're set at the bottom of the DIN range on that binding or closer to the bottom than you would be to the top of a 13.

OP...just grab some attack 13 or 14s of Corbetts.com and call it a day...or pivot 12s if you like them better. No need to overthink this one.

b0ssOk, so lately I’ve been noticing a ton of threads asking what bindings would suit them the best and as winter gets closer there’s gonna be a ton more, so I thought it’d be a good idea to have a thread which includes some info to your questions when considering binding choices.







Main things to consider when selecting bindings are skier weight, skier ability, binding price, and type of skiing you will be using it for.







For some reason I can’t post this as a response right now it’s only posting as part of the original post but…

This thread is originally from 2009, a lot of these bindings don’t exist anymore or are under different names.

I think the real solution is to advertise all of these threads where commonly asked questions are answered, to new users, in a better way. Most new users are probably on the app and as a new user you have no obvious way to tell that this information is already available, first instinct is to just ask a question to the forum.

**This post was edited on Oct 3rd 2023 at 5:32:52pm

**This post was edited on Oct 3rd 2023 at 5:34:59pm

Farmville420Idk, I have the 16s and ride them at a 9. Not sure if this is real but I've had a couple techs tell me that bindings work best when they aren't cranked towards the max, and instead sit in the middle of their range cuz I guess it's a spring mechanism or something. They could have just been trying to sell me more expensive bindings but idk, I just know the 16s are nice and haven't used the 13s, didn't even know they had an STH13 but that's good to know as well lol

I had some 16s at one point as well, also rode them at 9 and they worked fine. To my understanding, I think it's kind of like a torque wrench. In that it is more accurate in the upper limit range. But also with a torque wrench you are not supposed to leave it at the high setting lol I think bindings are different though.

So bottom line, I think if you ride on 9 then the 13s are what you want, buying the 16s is just wasted money. However they are still rated for 9 and you can get the bindings tested... so if they are releasing when they should, you're fine either way.

betzI had some 16s at one point as well, also rode them at 9 and they worked fine. To my understanding, I think it's kind of like a torque wrench. In that it is more accurate in the upper limit range. But also with a torque wrench you are not supposed to leave it at the high setting lol I think bindings are different though.

So bottom line, I think if you ride on 9 then the 13s are what you want, buying the 16s is just wasted money. However they are still rated for 9 and you can get the bindings tested... so if they are releasing when they should, you're fine either way.

I sold all my other bindings cuz the release was so consistent, one of the only bindings I've ridden and haven't had any pre release issues, but when my starts to twist they eject instantly, idk I've just had a great experience, but yeah if the 13s work just as good then I would recommend them even more cuz then they're even cheaper lol

betzugh alright.

Pivots are functionally all the same. Pivot 12 has plastic and pivot 15 and up are all metal. People think the metal is more durable. Really they are built to a max DIN so if you don't set it past 12 then go with the 12s.

Pivot pros:
Pivots have higher elasticity in the heel than any other binding as well as good toe elasticity. This translates to that the pivots are better at not pre-releasing. This translates to that you can set the DIN a bit lower than you might need to with other bindings. This is where the added knee saving safety comes in.
For me on my tyrolias this is a 9ish DIN but on the pivots it's about 8 DIN. I figured this out with trial and error, starting low and going up until there were no issues. The bindings will hold well without you needing to crank the shit out of the DIN. if you're just going to crank the shit out of the DIN anyways then pivots have no benefit.
Only other benefit of the pivot is the low stack height (not as high off the ski). They are the lowest in the biz.

Pivot cons:
hardly any adjustment. If you got new boots you might have to get your bindings remounted. If the homie wants to try your skis, they can't unless they have the same exact boot size pretty much. More expensive than most other alpine bindings. They are a bitch to get on in powder, you need to clear them almost completely.

Other good bindings are tyrolia attacks and salomon/ atomic STH2 bindings.

Tyrolias attacks are the cheapest, low stack height, very adjustable and just a good solid ass binding.

Salomons have the best toe elasticity and maybe the best to put on in powder, but only slightly better than the tyrolia. They are also very adjustable and solid.

All 3 are good bindings just depends what matters most to you.

Common misconception. Pivots do not function the same. The 12/14 toes release different than the 15/18. It’s not just the material.

betzmaybe the sth2 13's. I don't think anyone should just default to a 16 DIN binding unless they are setting their DINs at 13+

13/16 have different heel pieces. The 16 has more metal in the housing itself. It also shares this metal heel with the strive 16.



the 13 sth and 13 strive have plastic heels. It’s not just different dins. The 12 and 14 also have the plastic heels.

Farmville420I sold all my other bindings cuz the release was so consistent, one of the only bindings I've ridden and haven't had any pre release issues, but when my starts to twist they eject instantly, idk I've just had a great experience, but yeah if the 13s work just as good then I would recommend them even more cuz then they're even cheaper lol

As mentioned your 16 heel is not the same as the 13. 16 has more metal in the build than everything else below. Kind of like pivot 15/18 toes vs 12/14 toes.

PartyBullshiitCommon misconception. Pivots do not function the same. The 12/14 toes release different than the 15/18. It’s not just the material.

Thats right- but don't the 12s actually have better release? like they can release laterally? I've had that happen before where the wings are standing straight up and down.

The referenced post has been removed.

I wasn't arguing that, not surprised the higher din binding is built stronger. Ive got to believe they are built to the DIN. You can either overbuild all of them and just change the spring out or build the whole binding to that DIN.. 13 seems to be the typical cutoff for different constructions.