Repairing Core Shot

Not sure about jb weld, could be good, could be worse than just ptex, i don't know.

But let the skis dry so that moisture is not trapped in the core.

Use base cleaner on the base around the coreshot, this will make the ptex adheare better.

And use the ptex multiple times until you are happy with the result.

That's nothing, just ptex it. No need for epoxy/jb weld.

simple ptex fix my dawg

Gorilla Wood filler, my dude.

**This post was edited on Dec 18th 2022 at 5:16:29pm

Let it dry out, clean it all up, thin layer of epoxy so water can not enter the core there, try ptex in thin layers, if it comes out come back for help.

GhiniLet it dry out, clean it all up, thin layer of epoxy so water can not enter the core there, try ptex in thin layers, if it comes out come back for help.

epoxy really isn't necessary, that coreshot is not deep and if it's ptexed correctly no moisture will get in.

**This post was edited on Dec 19th 2022 at 10:24:59am

.nastyepoxy really isn't necessary, that coreshot is not deep and if it's ptexed correctly no moisture will get in.

**This post was edited on Dec 19th 2022 at 10:24:59am

Perhaps you could define "ptexed correctly". I gave it my best effort with a clear stick to monitor the soot/particulates. After filling the whole thing in a few layers, it basically ended up pretty black with all the soot particles. I'm not really sure how to avoid them. Also, I developed a thin crack in the ptex fill so I am thinking about tearing it out and trying again. Even when I try to fill the thin crack, it does not go away. I must have done something wrong.

You lucked out, it didn't hit the edge. If it hit the fiberglass (it did) I think base weld is applicable but this one is small anyways so you can probably get away with p-tex sticks. If it was against the edge I would've epoxied it (make sure to use the right type and dry/clean/wire brush it first) as ripping out an edge is far worse than a core shot and becomes more likely once you expose the edge anchors.

Also- don't sweat getting water into your core, it's not exposed- your core shot stopped at the fiberglass reinforcement layer below the core and thus your core is still sealed from the moisture:

OVER__LEVERAGEDPerhaps you could define "ptexed correctly". I gave it my best effort with a clear stick to monitor the soot/particulates. After filling the whole thing in a few layers, it basically ended up pretty black with all the soot particles. I'm not really sure how to avoid them. Also, I developed a thin crack in the ptex fill so I am thinking about tearing it out and trying again. Even when I try to fill the thin crack, it does not go away. I must have done something wrong.

Clear ptex is pretty tough to keep looking good. To the point that I'd use it as a benchmark test to see how new tuners were shaping up.

A good hot flame goes a long way to helping clear ptex stay clear, if you aren't already using one I highly suggest a blowtorch of any some sort. A bic will get the job done, but it won't be primo


With basic drip ptex you'll likely have to keep refilling it on occasion as opposed to a baseweld which will have a much higher chance of being a lasting fix.

**This post was edited on Dec 20th 2022 at 9:29:46pm