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Why are the jumps in climbing grades so astronomically big, I feel like it’s so hard for me to benchmark my progress because I’ll rip through V2’s all day I’ll do like 10 in a session and then I try a V3 and can barely make it halfway through the problem. Anyone else have this issue at their gym/local bouldering spot?
Farmville420Why are the jumps in climbing grades so astronomically big, I feel like it’s so hard for me to benchmark my progress because I’ll rip through V2’s all day I’ll do like 10 in a session and then I try a V3 and can barely make it halfway through the problem. Anyone else have this issue at their gym/local bouldering spot?
For me, a crimp-dominated v2 is way harder than most v3s without any crimps. What specific parts of climbing you are better at will be a large determinent for how hard a problem is for you, especially as a beginner/intermediate climber. I'm sure once you get really good at all the different techniques and holds, I'm sure things feel different but I'm not there lol
Oh my answer was kinda backwards. As far as your problem goes, it sounds mainly like a route setter thing. They determine the grades subjectively like ski trail rating, so one gym's V3 might be another gym's V5. Don't feel bad that you struggle with the next level, realize they are called problems for a reason. They usually take some repeated effort and figuring things out before you get it. Each person's beta is a little different too, as strengths and sizes differ. You got it man, hang in there!
ReturnToMonkeyFor me, a crimp-dominated v2 is way harder than most v3s without any crimps. What specific parts of climbing you are better at will be a large determinent for how hard a problem is for you, especially as a beginner/intermediate climber. I'm sure once you get really good at all the different techniques and holds, I'm sure things feel different but I'm not there lol
Yeah I’m pretty much a textbook brute force pull up simulator kid. I can do all the flashy dynos but the second I see a crimp or anything that requires technique it’s just game over. Idk, grip strength just isn’t where I feel like I should be and I do all the workouts
Bro just you wait until you try your first V6 lol.Fr though What’s your body strength and techniques looking like? V3’s are kind of the first “jump” you’ll make in climbing and a lot of people get caught off guard from the jump between those levels.
what helped me when I first started climbing harder grades was really focusing on foot work and using all your limbs evenly. Like seriously- good foot work is essential in higher grades. It also would not hurt you to hit the hang boards and work on some grip strength.
do your shoes fit right?
are you warming up every time?
what kind of V3’s are you trying?
what kinda of Boulder problems are you good at?
Farmville420Yeah I’m pretty much a textbook brute force pull up simulator kid. I can do all the flashy dynos but the second I see a crimp or anything that requires technique it’s just game over. Idk, grip strength just isn’t where I feel like I should be and I do all the workouts
Me too haha I got my first V5 before any V4 just because it was simply a huge lateral dyno
There's not really a hard line for what constitutes a v3 vs v2 in my experience. It's kind of at the discretion of the guys setting the routes and I really never noticed much of a difference when I was into bouldering. Just look for v2s that challenge you a bit or v3s with lots of jugs and focus on getting up them as smoothly as possible. If you're kicking the wall and making lots of noise and using lots of upper body then ur not climbing smooth so just focus on that and the v3s will come eventually. you can also do pullups and core work, I wouldn't recommend hang board exercises til ur climbing lots of crimpy stuff but that also helps a lot. don't focus so much on the numbers just work on climbing smooth.
if you want to get better you need to hit the campus board and get on a training routine. If you go everyday just to climb and not train you won't break through grades much.
I know that this thread is a month old.....but there is a 99% chance you arent using your feet as well as you could. Climb some slab and learn to trust your feet. Once you can use your feet properly and stop overgripping stuff you will progress pretty fast. Body tension will start to make sense etc.
Also you really shouldn't be training at v2-v3. tendons take a long time to gain strength, and if you are hangboarding or such you can blow a pulley super quickly.
Profahoben_212I know that this thread is a month old.....but there is a 99% chance you arent using your feet as well as you could. Climb some slab and learn to trust your feet. Once you can use your feet properly and stop overgripping stuff you will progress pretty fast. Body tension will start to make sense etc.
Also you really shouldn't be training at v2-v3. tendons take a long time to gain strength, and if you are hangboarding or such you can blow a pulley super quickly.
Is this true? The thing about not training V2’s and V3’s. I’ve noticed that sometimes when I send climbs like that my arms hurt but thought I was just being a wimp lol
Farmville420Is this true? The thing about not training V2’s and V3’s. I’ve noticed that sometimes when I send climbs like that my arms hurt but thought I was just being a wimp lol
you probably shouldnt be if you have only been climbing a short while. Tendons can take a year+ to catch up to muscle growth. This makes a scenario where you can overtrain your muscles on weak tendons leading to blowouts and tears.
As a general rule of thumb its a good idea to wait a yearish to start an actual hangboarding routine for training. You can feel free to warm up/cool down though on them. They are brilliant for that.
Also, you definitely do not need to be hangboarding for v2-3 in the gym. You need to get miles under you and gain technique. Going for gains/strength right off the bat is going to lead you to a lack of technical skills and a lot of overgripping. This will cause you to have less endurance and likely for you to stall around v4-v6 where technique becomes more important (you'll probs stall here anyways but it will be for much longer and be far more frustrating if you have to go back to basics). If you want to train for climbing at this level, I would suggest just climbing a ton, work on technique, and then work out your core, back and shoulders. Lay off the fingers for a while. They will get plenty strong just climbing.
IDK I'm not a trainer, just talking bout what I have seen over the years in myself and my friends. I'm mostly a rope guy, but I do boulder indoors for training.
Not a climber myself but I think our (basalt?) boulders have potential.... none are long...but I think they would be fun, quick scales with many * micro* routes to keep oneself entertained
shit for real tho, I can fight and fail a slopey static v3 for days after doing countless 2's. but then on the same hand I can get up crimpy and techy or dynamic 4's and 5's with ease and maybe half hour of projecting them
or going from indoor to outdoor can also be infuriating. like you can do a v3 on plastic and then go try a v3 at the crag and not even be able to get on, this also happens in vise versa
climbing is a fucking weird sport but thats the fun of it
but yea as everyone else says, grading is so damn subjective to each climb, and also your unique style of climbing plays a huge role in it too, as you grow as a climber this becomes almost annoyingly apparent lol, honestly repetition is they key for climbing, work any problem over and over and you are bound to get it
CrunnchyPissFartor going from indoor to outdoor can also be infuriating. like you can do a v3 on plastic and then go try a v3 at the crag and not even be able to get on, this also happens in vise versa
There are a couple of reasons why this happens. The most obvious is the holds aren't color-coded of course. But the other is the gym featherbagging death cycle. People like to climb harder and feel stronger, and gyms like making money. So it ends up where gyms inadvertently, or even on purpose featherbag their routes so people come back. Most people just think damn I love that gyms setters it really flows with my style! And that could be true, but they are also probably setting v4s that climb like an outdoor v2 (or a 5.12 that climbs like an outdoor mid .10 etc etc). Then after climbing outside, they get frustrated and go back to the gym to train train train. Some gyms are farrrr worse than others on this. But as a general rule of thumb you can subtract a grade or two from any gym I've been to when transferring to outdoor grades.
That's my weird rant about gym setting lol. None of it matters though because all that matters is that you have fun. Chasing grades is (mostly) silly. Dont let the bros get in your head and tell you that you need to climb Vwhatever or 5whatever to be a good climber.
Trying to downtime every route that I did seemed to help me get better at climbing when v2s are starting to get easy but can't make much progress on a lot of v3s. I miss climbing.
TOAST.Trying to downtime every route that I did seemed to help me get better at climbing when v2s are starting to get easy but can't make much progress on a lot of v3s. I miss climbing.
Lotta ppl think V3 is universal- or that there aren’t types of problems you are better at. Find the easiest V2 for you and then look for a V3 that utilizes the same moves or strategies.
or if you realize you suck at slopers (my downfall) focus some V2’s that help you build up skills.
Young_pattyLotta ppl think V3 is universal- or that there aren’t types of problems you are better at. Find the easiest V2 for you and then look for a V3 that utilizes the same moves or strategies.
or if you realize you suck at slopers (my downfall) focus some V2’s that help you build up skills.
The biggest confidence boost is when you can't do any v2s at your normal gym but try a different gym and can climb v6s. Liked my dusty local gym so much better than the fancy chain gyms.
TOAST.The biggest confidence boost is when you can't do any v2s at your normal gym but try a different gym and can climb v6s. Liked my dusty local gym so much better than the fancy chain gyms.
Bruuhhhh fr, first V6 I ever climbed was at the MSU student gym and I felt like a rockstar- then went to the public wall and floundered on their V4/5's. Some gyms have begun to get rid of the V system for scaling and using more vague ones, supposedly it helps encourage people to try problems they wouldn't normally try which is pretty cool.
Also have you tried circuit programs for improving your climbing?
Young_pattyBruuhhhh fr, first V6 I ever climbed was at the MSU student gym and I felt like a rockstar- then went to the public wall and floundered on their V4/5's. Some gyms have begun to get rid of the V system for scaling and using more vague ones, supposedly it helps encourage people to try problems they wouldn't normally try which is pretty cool.
Also have you tried circuit programs for improving your climbing?
I have not. Haven't climbed in a few years now. All my friends I climbed with moved and wife wasn't comfortable belaying sport climbs and I got sick of losing all progress I made during ski season. Plus gym is like 40 minutes from my house and don't really have time anymore. Hoping to build a wall in my basement and get back into it a little.
Farmville420Thread is active again so might as well ask, best climbing spots within an hour of denver? Outdoor ofc
Boulder canyon or clear creek canyon should have you covered for good outdoor climbing.
Another tip for OP is try not to look at the grades in the gym and walk up to a section of wall and look for holds and routes which catch your eye and look promising to you. If that route happens to be v3-v4 then perfect! If not try to send it anyway.
