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Sorry, just a rant. But when ordering, brake width selection was not possible - store wrote they would chose it based on ski width. Now they mounted 95 mm brakes on a 102 mm ski when the brakes are available in 110 mm too...
The brakes are so tight that the skis cannot be "clicked" together. I know the brakes can be bent, but why....
If i get replacement brakes and i need to switch them, should i reapply some sort of glue to the screws of the heel piece? How much of the heel piece do i need to remove? As far as i can see, the brakes are held in place by two of the mounting screws.
Tyrolia Attack 14 GW.
**This post was edited on Jan 19th 2022 at 9:15:57am
i'd waaay prefer that over 110 brakes on a 102 ski and most people on here will agree. just carefully bend those guys out the TINIEST little bit and you're good to go man. way better than replacing the brakes and way better than having 110s overhanging imo
SofaKingSicki'd waaay prefer that over 110 brakes on a 102 ski and most people on here will agree. just carefully bend those guys out the TINIEST little bit and you're good to go man. way better than replacing the brakes and way better than having 110s overhanging imo
Thanks, I have heard people like to down-size, I just though this was too much. But I will try to bend slightly! No issues to do it with a firm grip while mounted right? Or do I have to disassemble.
BradFiAusNzCoCaThose look like attacks. I have 95mm attacks on a 102 underfoot ski. Stretch them or wiggle them. They’ll be fine
Thanks, I have heard people like to down-size, I just though this was too much. But I will try to bend slightly! No issues to do it with a firm grip while mounted right? Or do I have to disassemble.
ValDThanks, I have heard people like to down-size, I just though this was too much. But I will try to bend slightly! No issues to do it with a firm grip while mounted right? Or do I have to disassemble.
Attack 14's indeed.
yeah, even my 95 brakes on 96 skis drive me insane now, coming from bent-out ones. imo the shop did you a solid here
yeah no disassembly required (and that's one of the reasons i suggest bending as opposed to replacing). if i were you i'd just grab a broken off pole or similar to use as your tool and give each leg the tiniest little bend out, you're adding like a millimeter on each one. just grab the opposite leg as you do each one so you're only messing with the brake itself, and keep it symmetrical
SofaKingSickyeah, even my 95 brakes on 96 skis drive me insane now, coming from bent-out ones. imo the shop did you a solid here
yeah no disassembly required (and that's one of the reasons i suggest bending as opposed to replacing). if i were you i'd just grab a broken off pole or similar to use as your tool and give each leg the tiniest little bend out, you're adding like a millimeter on each one. just grab the opposite leg as you do each one so you're only messing with the brake itself, and keep it symmetrical
Thanks! Will definitely figure it out.
Also, there is a small gap between the back section of heel binding and the ski. Do you happen to know if this is normal/ok? I pay way too much attention when getting brand new skis.... Just afraid of getting a bad mount when buying online..
Also, there is a small gap between the back section of heel binding and the ski. Do you happen to know if this is normal/ok? I pay way too much attention when getting brand new skis.... Just afraid of getting a bad mount when buying online..
post a pic i'd say. i think people like @.nasty or @tomPietrowski etc are better to answer that question after seeing it
SofaKingSickpost a pic i'd say. i think people like @.nasty or @tomPietrowski etc are better to answer that question after seeing it
Thanks.
Behind the two rear screws of the heel piece there is room for like 4 layers of paper. I wouldn't be too worried if it was just the very back, but the fact that I can push the paper all the way to the screws makes me wonder a bit. The rest of the binding is pretty flush with the ski, some spots where I can fit 1 layer of paper.
hm yeah wait for someone more knowledgeable on this, i've never had this happen to me so idk. i think they might tell you that they should be corrected a little but i'm really not sure
Behind the two rear screws of the heel piece there is room for like 4 layers of paper. I wouldn't be too worried if it was just the very back, but the fact that I can push the paper all the way to the screws makes me wonder a bit. The rest of the binding is pretty flush with the ski, some spots where I can fit 1 layer of paper.
(Folded - 4 layers)
(1 layer)
If the screws are flush you’re in the clear, doesn’t matter if there’s .5 mm under that part of the binding, look from the side at the screws to check they’re flush.
Take a photo of the side so we can see the silhouette. I’ve dealt with attack screws and issues before. Generally, if the screws are flush, it’s okay with attacks
JacksonA125If the screws are flush you’re in the clear, doesn’t matter if there’s .5 mm under that part of the binding, look from the side at the screws to check they’re flush.
Pretty common for the rear two screws on Tyrolias to not sit flat, but it shouldn’t be raised up that much. Whoever mounted didn’t hand tighten enough. As for the brakes, either use your ski edge and shave a bit of the plastic off or just sand the insides of the plastic tips and you’ll be fine
.nastyPretty common for the rear two screws on Tyrolias to not sit flat, but it shouldn’t be raised up that much. Whoever mounted didn’t hand tighten enough. As for the brakes, either use your ski edge and shave a bit of the plastic off or just sand the insides of the plastic tips and you’ll be fine
All i know is that these screws are often glued before mounted. Can I hand tighten a bit, or will i break some glue/epoxy connection?
BradFiAusNzCoCaTake a photo of the side so we can see the silhouette. I’ve dealt with attack screws and issues before. Generally, if the screws are flush, it’s okay with attacks
Almost impossible, this is the best i could do. But I suspect that the screw might be sitting in a small plastic socket, and it is actually the socket and not the screw itself visible in the gap. If that makes sense. Does it make sense to try and hand tighten or will i break a glue bond?
**This post was edited on Jan 19th 2022 at 4:49:19pm
Kinda hard to tell but looks fine to me. Pretty easy to back it out and reapply if you have the right screwdriver and glue and feel comfortable. Otherwise, don’t because you will break the glue seal. I think they’re fine
ValDAlmost impossible, this is the best i could do. But I suspect that the screw might be sitting in a small plastic socket, and it is actually the socket and not the screw itself visible in the gap. If that makes sense. Does it make sense to try and hand tighten or will i break a glue bond?
**This post was edited on Jan 19th 2022 at 4:49:19pm
BradFiAusNzCoCaKinda hard to tell but looks fine to me. Pretty easy to back it out and reapply if you have the right screwdriver and glue and feel comfortable. Otherwise, don’t because you will break the glue seal. I think they’re fine
Ya i suspect i should just stop worrying and ski it.
