It looks like you are using an ad blocker. That's okay. Who doesn't? But without advertising revenue, we can't keep making this site awesome. Click the link below for instructions on disabling adblock.
Welcome to the Newschoolers forums! You may read the forums as a guest, however you must be a registered member to post.
Register to become a member today!
Just curious. For me its mostly de-lamination or some type of edge failure: cracking or ripping out. I had one pair of sidewalls fail once on my old Volkl Kuros, and have beaten bases to the point that they don't like to slide but honestly it takes some doing. Seems like 95% of my issues are delam or edges. Never had a core shot that didn't ski at least semi-normally after a repair (unless it hit an edge!). I guess I snapped a core but it de-laminated before it snapped, and I ripped out a binding once. Anybody break any other stuff?
hoodratz47I've only ever ripped bindings out.. ripped edges out of one pair.
And once I was riding a buddies motherships and over shot and slapped the tips down and blew the tip on one the fuck apart
RIP your friend
Also interesting, my brother had a ton of problems with ~2012ish surface skis ripping out bindings. A shop tech said they didn't add an extra layer of fiberglass for binding retention, not sure if that's true or not. I also heard a rumor that Pivots like to rip out because they use a wider bolt pattern that misses the harder wood stringers/metal plates added for binding retention- also not sure if that is true or not
In order of how often it happens to me:
1: edges rip out and ski eventually snaps underfoot
2: tip delam
3: ski snaps in tip or tail
4: ski snaps underfoot without missing edges (sidewall and core)
Not happened yet, but I also don't ski park or probably enough days for this to happen as compared to some of you that hit 60-80 days in a season. Had a few core shots, close calls with ditches and holes, and some rock hits that I was sure was gonna fuck em up but nope.
Op your slide issue might be the base structure needing a grind. My old skis did this after a while and were literally suctioned regardless of waxing or snow type, and just needed a base grind.
Also interesting, my brother had a ton of problems with ~2012ish surface skis ripping out bindings. A shop tech said they didn't add an extra layer of fiberglass for binding retention, not sure if that's true or not. I also heard a rumor that Pivots like to rip out because they use a wider bolt pattern that misses the harder wood stringers/metal plates added for binding retention- also not sure if that is true or not
An extra layer glass definitely makes the difference. I had tear outs with my prototypes until I added it to my designs. Not had one since. It’s why it’s on every pair we make now.
as for the pivot mount, the heel pattern is super narrow and it could be possible to miss better screw retaining wood bars in the core if it’s not been constructed to account for all the mount patterns (majority fall within 10-30mm left and right of centre of the core)
HypeBeastNot happened yet, but I also don't ski park or probably enough days for this to happen as compared to some of you that hit 60-80 days in a season. Had a few core shots, close calls with ditches and holes, and some rock hits that I was sure was gonna fuck em up but nope.
Op your slide issue might be the base structure needing a grind. My old skis did this after a while and were literally suctioned regardless of waxing or snow type, and just needed a base grind.
What you're saying about base grinds is true and good advice, but this was on a pair of skis I bought for a 6 pack of PBR just to destroy for fun. I got as many core shots as possible before finally blowing out the tip, and honestly the skis weren't much fun to ski once the bases got really torn up. I've ripped out edges on so many skis I've owned, yet I still to this day have so many questions about how these edges of all of them didn't rip out...
FaunaSkisAn extra layer glass definitely makes the difference. I had tear outs with my prototypes until I added it to my designs. Not had one since. It’s why it’s on every pair we make now.
as for the pivot mount, the heel pattern is super narrow and it could be possible to miss better screw retaining wood bars in the core if it’s not been constructed to account for all the mount patterns (majority fall within 10-30mm left and right of centre of the core)
Interesting. I've never heard somebody with any actual before/after experience, just hear say. I guess was off about the Pivots haha, but interesting that something is different than norm about the bolt pattern, I wonder if it is a factor with Pivot's reputation for being ski-killers
IsaacNW82What you're saying about base grinds is true and good advice, but this was on a pair of skis I bought for a 6 pack of PBR just to destroy for fun. I got as many core shots as possible before finally blowing out the tip, and honestly the skis weren't much fun to ski once the bases got really torn up. I've ripped out edges on so many skis I've owned, yet I still to this day have so many questions about how these edges of all of them didn't rip out...
05-06 side story. That kid who skis it was the evening after I broke em. We all got wasted as fuck and he punched a cop and got beat the absolute fuck up and I saw I'm in the morning and never saw or heard from him again..... I was gonna pay for them I felt bad.
hi_vis360this really brings me back to the 2000s, saw quite a few pairs of lines delam. Which vintage of motherships were they?
those skis are in the dumpster now but I think the majority was down to the fiberglass layer between the base and the core. I think maybe a little made it through to the wood core, but not much if any. I was living in Vermont when I did that, where rocks are a little more rounded.
On these skis however, the core shot to the right is straight through the fiberglass and to wood. Rocks at Taos don't mess around
IsaacNW82those skis are in the dumpster now but I think the majority was down to the fiberglass layer between the base and the core. I think maybe a little made it through to the wood core, but not much if any. I was living in Vermont when I did that, where rocks are a little more rounded.
On these skis however, the core shot to the right is straight through the fiberglass and to wood. Rocks at Taos don't mess around
i got a pair of surfaces and when i brought them to the binding shop the guy said to watch two of the screws on the heel and make sure they don’t rip out.
IsaacNW82RIP your friend
Also interesting, my brother had a ton of problems with ~2012ish surface skis ripping out bindings. A shop tech said they didn't add an extra layer of fiberglass for binding retention, not sure if that's true or not. I also heard a rumor that Pivots like to rip out because they use a wider bolt pattern that misses the harder wood stringers/metal plates added for binding retention- also not sure if that is true or not
Most of my park skis delam but I'm usually able to fix that with a spiked t nut and epoxy. I've had a few binding pull outs after losing edge underfoot. I try my best to fill the void with epoxy but it never lasts that long.
For me? A scratch on the base means she’s going in the trash. Rust on edges? Gone. Chip on the top sheet? Cya.
These are serious performance issues that effect my ability, to perform at the highest level as an elite student athlete. No matter how minor, I need my skis to perform high. I need.. to make the mountain my playground.
Depends on the ski, but usually edges crack underfoot and start falling out, then the bases and sidewalls under foot start deteriorating really fast, or the whole edge delams/tears out. Usually the edges at the tips and tails start to detach and splay out from the ski eventually too.
I've had some tips and tails snap off too, especially on skis where the wood core stops at the curve and there's just rubber and fiberglass at the very end.
skiP.E.I.Depends on the ski, but usually edges crack underfoot and start falling out, then the bases and sidewalls under foot start deteriorating really fast, or the whole edge delams/tears out. Usually the edges at the tips and tails start to detach and splay out from the ski eventually too.
I've had some tips and tails snap off too, especially on skis where the wood core stops at the curve and there's just rubber and fiberglass at the very end.
What the fuck kind of skis are you buying that have rubber on the tips and tails
skiP.E.I.Depends on the ski, but usually edges crack underfoot and start falling out, then the bases and sidewalls under foot start deteriorating really fast, or the whole edge delams/tears out. Usually the edges at the tips and tails start to detach and splay out from the ski eventually too.
I've had some tips and tails snap off too, especially on skis where the wood core stops at the curve and there's just rubber and fiberglass at the very end.
I've had the same experience with edges but opposite experience with tips. Tips where the wood core extends all the way seems to de-laminate more for me. The tips with some type of tip fill (usually UHMW P-tex) seem to last longer. That being said de-lamination and plain snapping aren't always the same problem, and UHMW isn't rubber.
I wish I could tell you for sure what the tip fill material is on my 2013 Rossi S3's, but I want to say it might be rubber as it is soft to a fingernail in the way the sidewalls and bases are not; additionally you can hand flex the tips far far easier than I can my any of my other skis with UHMW tip fill (Volkl, Black Crows, homemade skis from high school).