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gravelthey are dope as fuck. it only works with the pivot 15 and 18. depending on the snow consistency the brake lever sometimes pops up and you have to bend down and reclip it which sucks
.nastyOne big tip I can give for anyone for the brake lever issue is making sure you lean down close to the heel and hear an audible click noise. The lip of the brake retainer wraps around the brake drum and sometimes it's easy to think it's all the way engaged when it just needs an extra little push.
SlitherySnakehonestly i’d go with daymakers since you don’t have to mess with swapping bindings over at all
unless weight is a concern for you if you’re doing long tours
**This post was edited on Oct 31st 2021 at 12:28:09pm
gravelyeah i noticed that as well, but it still occastionally pops back up even when it's fully clipped down. i think it just really depends on the snow consistency and how easy it is for the snow to infiltrate
anders_avision 118 is a superlight ski, pivot metal is super heavy though, just have that in mind.
SlitherySnakehonestly i’d go with daymakers since you don’t have to mess with swapping bindings over at all
unless weight is a concern for you if you’re doing long tours
**This post was edited on Oct 31st 2021 at 12:28:09pm
cydwhitCast is totally worth it depending on what you're trying to use those skis for. If you're only touring on them, and you're not in ski movies, or trying to be in ski movies, chances are, you'd be better served by a good tech binding (probably an ATK Freeraider).
If the other options you're looking at are Shifts, Kingpins, Daymakers, or the new Dukes, I'd go Cast in a heartbeat. If the other options you're looking at are tech bindings (Vipecs, Rotations, Ions, etc) then no, go Freeraiders.
If you're mostly skiing inbounds on those skis, and want the option to tour, Cast is great. And if your tours involve a lot of booter builds and cliff hucks, Cast is great.
But, if you're mostly just "backcountry skiing" and not hucking your meat every time you walk uphill on skis, or aren't skiing them inbounds a lot, what's the point? They're heavier, and slightly more finicky than good tech bindings, and take much longer to transition. Cast is really freaking awesome for the people that need it. But you've gotta have a realistic conversation with yourself about whether you fall into that category.
-eREKTion-Interesting. So it sounds like you're saying that CAST system sort of negates need for burlier tech bindings like Kingpins and Tectons? I've always sort of lumped touring bindings in my head into three categories: Light (ATK, Vipec, Ion), Burly pins (Kingpins, Tectons), and DIN (Shift, CAST). Are you just writing off the inbetweeners? So my touring skis should get mounted with a solid lightweight binding exclusively? I've been a Kingpin fan for a while but I'll probably buy ATK's next.
cydwhitYeah. Sorta. I thought of touring bindings the same way for a long time, but IMO, and I know others in this thread will disagree, the combo of ATK’s, and cast/shift/dukes killed the kingpin and Techton for me. I just don’t think either of those bindings offers enough of an upgrade in either performance or safety to justify their weight. I trust the Freeraider to stay on when it should, and it delivers power to the ski well. So why take the big weight penalty to ski a kingpin or techton when they do the same thing?
Shift/Duke PT/cast on the other hand both stay on like they should, and come off like they should. For much of my backcountry skiing, I’m most worried about my skis staying on, I don’t want to kick a shoe someplace consequential. But, sometimes I like to build jumps and fall off cliffs, and when I’m doing that, I want my bindings to release instead of tearing my knees apart. The heavy DIN bindings are great for that. Kingpin and and Techton are not necessarily.
I used to make the “who cares about weight/efficiency” argument, and I still get it, but two main things have motivated me to go lighter and more efficient.
1). The lighter/more efficient my gear is (to a point) the more likely I am to go back up for another lap. For me (maybe not for everyone else ) more efficient gear = more skiing for Cy. Big win.
2) Efficiency really matters in a companion rescue situation. If I’m trying to get back up to dig out a homie, I want to be able to transition very quickly and get up there to help. I’ve had a couple of issues with some of the burlier options out there being really hard to transition/not working that well in walk mode, and if I’m having trouble transitioning on a mellow tour, there’s no way I’m going to do it well when the adrenalin is pumping.
Binding choice conversations are my favorite conversations because they’re so nuanced.
cydwhitEfficiency really matters in a companion rescue situation
.nastyOne big tip I can give for anyone for the brake lever issue is making sure you lean down close to the heel and hear an audible click noise. The lip of the brake retainer wraps around the brake drum and sometimes it's easy to think it's all the way engaged when it just needs an extra little push.
tcurleYes, and if you have pivot 18's already it's the cheapest touring binding.
*anything cheaper isn't a touring bindings and sucks.
CastThis. If they're mounted half decent and fully engaged I rarely have them flip down. Only sometimes when setting a skin track in the deep.
batskinatskiYo glad to have attracted the higher ups with my thread. When you say that cast ships by early December is that still true?
CastYessir. Also to answer the original question, yes totally worth it.
nathanielbatsonHowever people are saying that I should remove the brakes on my pivots. Is that a good idea?
hot.pocketAbsolutely do not do this.
hot.pocketAbsolutely do not do this.
nathanielbatsonHaha I always knew my friend was completely off his shit. I wouldnt dream of doing it myself but he insisted lol. Not to mention his reason was because the skins wouldnt fit properly. Maybe cut. your. skins. to. your. ski. width.
**This post was edited on Jan 11th 2022 at 3:33:57pm
hot.pocketHe runs skins wider than his skis? Does he not lock his brakes up during touring? Talk some sense into the guy.
cydwhitYeah. Sorta. I thought of touring bindings the same way for a long time, but IMO, and I know others in this thread will disagree, the combo of ATK’s, and cast/shift/dukes killed the kingpin and Techton for me. I just don’t think either of those bindings offers enough of an upgrade in either performance or safety to justify their weight. I trust the Freeraider to stay on when it should, and it delivers power to the ski well. So why take the big weight penalty to ski a kingpin or techton when they do the same thing?
Shift/Duke PT/cast on the other hand both stay on like they should, and come off like they should. For much of my backcountry skiing, I’m most worried about my skis staying on, I don’t want to kick a shoe someplace consequential. But, sometimes I like to build jumps and fall off cliffs, and when I’m doing that, I want my bindings to release instead of tearing my knees apart. The heavy DIN bindings are great for that. Kingpin and and Techton are not necessarily.
I used to make the “who cares about weight/efficiency” argument, and I still get it, but two main things have motivated me to go lighter and more efficient.
1). The lighter/more efficient my gear is (to a point) the more likely I am to go back up for another lap. For me (maybe not for everyone else ) more efficient gear = more skiing for Cy. Big win.
2) Efficiency really matters in a companion rescue situation. If I’m trying to get back up to dig out a homie, I want to be able to transition very quickly and get up there to help. I’ve had a couple of issues with some of the burlier options out there being really hard to transition/not working that well in walk mode, and if I’m having trouble transitioning on a mellow tour, there’s no way I’m going to do it well when the adrenalin is pumping.
Binding choice conversations are my favorite conversations because they’re so nuanced.
VT_scratchHey all, one season in on my JJ UL's with cast system. Day 1 at whistler is tomorrow and I am dusting off the skis and noticed one toe piece has a good bit of play. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be worried?
https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/1056148/IMG-1367-MOV
deelonmuskAre you sure this wasn't there when you first mounted the setup? If any of the 4 toe screws are a bit off, it can cause a little bit of play.
VT_scratchHey all, one season in on my JJ UL's with cast system. Day 1 at whistler is tomorrow and I am dusting off the skis and noticed one toe piece has a good bit of play. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be worried?
https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/1056148/IMG-1367-MOV
VT_scratchHey all, one season in on my JJ UL's with cast system. Day 1 at whistler is tomorrow and I am dusting off the skis and noticed one toe piece has a good bit of play. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be worried?
https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/1056148/IMG-1367-MOV