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Boot is loose in atomic shift

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Logi
Posts: 388 - Karma: 3,889
Title explains most of it, the toe lug of my boot moves up and down from the afd to the little spinners in the toe piece. I discovered this after getting them back from the shop. Can I do anything to prevent this?

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/1015206/IMG-0445-mov
4 years ago
3 0
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Non_State_Actor
Posts: 5072 - Karma: 18,506
LogiTitle explains most of it, the toe lug of my boot moves up and down from the afd to the little spinners in the toe piece. I discovered this after getting them back from the shop. Can I do anything to prevent this?

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/1015206/IMG-0445-mov


What was the shop supposed to do? Did you just have them mounted?

In any case it looks like an extreme case of the afd adjustment issue many have encountered with the shift. You should familiarize yourself with the adjustment process as you should check it regularly but this looks like the shop straight up forgot to adjust it at all. Is it like that on both skis?
4 years ago
5 0
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dmcdmc
Posts: 208 - Karma: 1,432
is there any reason not to just take them back to the shop
4 years ago
6 0
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deadhead420
Posts: 2073 - Karma: 18,241
You should definably read the technical manual for the shift. You will probably need to learn how to adjust the shifts, seems like mine are always adjusting themselves. Especially the AFD but sometimes forward pressure too

https://issuu.com/salomonnz/docs/salomon_tm_alp_2021_72dpi
4 years ago
3 1
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Logi
Posts: 388 - Karma: 3,889
Yeah, the it was just supposed to be a normal mount job. I'll probably just read the manual and figure out how to adjust the afd. If I can't figure it out, I'll just take em back to the shop
4 years ago
2 0
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Non_State_Actor
Posts: 5072 - Karma: 18,506
dmcdmcis there any reason not to just take them back to the shop


If it's convenient I would definitely take them back but OP needs to know how to adjust these bindings. The adjustment procedure is pretty straightforward and they just need to be checked and adjusted in order to function well.
4 years ago
2 0
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Logi
Posts: 388 - Karma: 3,889
Alright, I easily figured it out after a couple turns of the screwdriver. The afd adjusts subtly, but clicks into place when it’s near the sole.

You guys think this looks good? Both skis are adjusted evenly.
4 years ago
2 0
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anders_a
Posts: 1680 - Karma: 5,603
its eliptical on the screw which is wtf, also it tends to adjust itself while skiiing! bring a screwdriver.

I pull boot hard back and up in front, then the afd should barely move, paper trick or similar
4 years ago
3 0
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Greg_K
Posts: 963 - Karma: 2,791
The key to any AFD adjustment is to eliminate any slack in the toe by pulling back on the boot cuff to wheelie the toe and THEN check the AFD height with a business card(while still pulling back on the boot cuff).
4 years ago
3 0
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anders_a
Posts: 1680 - Karma: 5,603
my favorite alone without wise is "fisting" it, mening insert hand like.. well yeah make it as thin as you can, then expand hand into a fist, you generate quite a lot of force
4 years ago
3 0
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Logi
Posts: 388 - Karma: 3,889
Greg_KThe key to any AFD adjustment is to eliminate any slack in the toe by pulling back on the boot cuff to wheelie the toe and THEN check the AFD height with a business card(while still pulling back on the boot cuff).


So just pull the boot toe up all the way until the lug hits the top of the toe piece housing?
4 years ago
0 0
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Greg_K
Posts: 963 - Karma: 2,791
LogiSo just pull the boot toe up all the way until the lug hits the top of the toe piece housing?

You pull on the back of the rear boot cuff which lifts the toe up to eliminate slack.

What I usually do to test is put the skis on the carpet with your knee on the ski behind the heel to anchor it. Pull the boot cuff back with one hand to wheelie the toe and then test the AFD height with a business card with the other.

I usually place the business card between AFD and boot sole before clicking into the binding once you’re close to the right height, with the business card hanging out to the side so there’s enough to grab. Raise the AFD high enough so the card resists to pulling it out even while you are wheeling the toe from the rear cuff.
4 years ago
1 0
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Burrito
Posts: 1864 - Karma: 937
The Shift AFDs are super finicky, same goes for the forward pressure. I bought my Shifts the first season before people had really figured out how to get them consistently in the right spot, and it took me a couple of months to finally get them to a place where they stayed set. Learn to do the adjustment yourself, but I'd definitely take them back to the shop, too. They either didn't bench test the bindings after mounting them, or they tested them with that wack AFD space. Either way, I'd have them double-check and test them again to make sure they didn't stress the bindings in a weird way the first time, potentially breaking something (again, if they tested them at all.)
4 years ago
1 0
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tdollo
Posts: 3875 - Karma: 19,781
crank the AFD because the AFD on a Shift has 3 little notches. If you are below the third level, your boot will drop down to the second notch. Oh shift.. What shop set these up?
4 years ago
1 0
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Logi
Posts: 388 - Karma: 3,889
tdollocrank the AFD because the AFD on a Shift has 3 little notches. If you are below the third level, your boot will drop down to the second notch. Oh shift.. What shop set these up?


Next adventure in pdx
4 years ago
2 0
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tdollo
Posts: 3875 - Karma: 19,781
LogiNext adventure in pdx


ahh damn yeah looks like youre on the right track. The shop mustve spaced and forgotten
4 years ago
2 0
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Logi
Posts: 388 - Karma: 3,889
anders_aits eliptical on the screw which is wtf, also it tends to adjust itself while skiiing! bring a screwdriver.

I pull boot hard back and up in front, then the afd should barely move, paper trick or similar


Wdym by eliptical on the screw?
4 years ago
1 0
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eheeth
Posts: 459 - Karma: 2,530
Mounted about 30 pairs of shifts this season, and let me tell you that afd is a pain in the ass. After you set it, check it after every run for about the first 4-5 to make sure it's settled in and hasn't dropped, then you should be right after that (but still check it every now and then just to be sure)
That afd is honestly one of the main reasons I went with the duke pt this year, don't even have to think about it
4 years ago
1 0
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anders_a
Posts: 1680 - Karma: 5,603
LogiWdym by eliptical on the screw?


adjustment is not linear, its slow slow slow then bam huge notch,
4 years ago
1 0
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Burrito
Posts: 1864 - Karma: 937
anders_aadjustment is not linear, its slow slow slow then bam huge notch,

Best way I've seen the AFD adjustment described is like ascending steps as opposed to a smooth ramp. If the AFD doesn't make it up to the next step, it will eventually drop down to the one below. Plus, it can be difficult to feel the click up to said next step without apply downward pressure while you're raising the AFD. The whole process is just awful from a user experience perspective.

Same goes for the forward pressure. The tech manual (at least the original one) says to align the backs of the metal and plastic housings so they're flush when a boot is inserted. That's all well and good, except there's also a little rectangle-shaped bump on the metal piece that is supposed to align with a set of arrows on the plastic. Neither of which are the same width, so there's a solid 2-3mm of play where you could look at that indicator and still think you're good to go. You end up having to adjust the FP by feel, and depending on the manufacturing tolerance and assembly of your specific set of bindings one, both, or none of the FP indicators will actually align properly.

It's all maddeningly imprecise for a binding this expensive.
4 years ago
3 0
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