Question about setting edge and base bevel

Damn I always just do 1 edge and 1 base. Are these park skis? I'd be careful going too thin if you wanna be hitting rails, but if these will never see rails you'll probably be fine. Doing a lot of edge bevel will reduce the number of times you can sharpen your edges but dull edges make you better anyway.

These are skis I bought for cheap on eBay that I can absolutely willing to completely thrash including epoxying sidewall and Base because I will be in southeast conditions this year. I accept they will be my trash skis I can work on and destroy. I have others I take much better care of haha

Also, I have had edge high skis in the past. Screw that noise on rails.

jompcockDamn I always just do 1 edge and 1 base. Are these park skis? I'd be careful going too thin if you wanna be hitting rails, but if these will never see rails you'll probably be fine. Doing a lot of edge bevel will reduce the number of times you can sharpen your edges but dull edges make you better anyway.

BradFiAusNzCoCaThese are skis I bought for cheap on eBay that I can absolutely willing to completely thrash including epoxying sidewall and Base because I will be in southeast conditions this year. I accept they will be my trash skis I can work on and destroy. I have others I take much better care of haha

Also, I have had edge high skis in the past. Screw that noise on rails.

Once I started doing 1º base and edge, and rounded the shit out of my edges binding to binding, I stopped catching on sticky rails entirely. Idk if you'd be able to escape edge contact on a down rail and I feel like it being thin would make it more likely to crack and pull out causing the core to get waterlogged and binding to pull out. It's fine to not care about the ski but try not to make more work for yourself. Just make sure you keep rounding underfoot if hitting rails cause that shit will crack fast if it slides on a rail while sharp, and sliding on rails will kind of sharpen them and the hot cold cycle will harden the steel making it harder to file.

I wanted to opt for the 1.5 bevel and 2 degree side so I’d have less of a chance of catching as opposed to just dulling my edge underfoot. I’ve learned that not all skis come out perfectly and some it doesn’t matter how much you dull them - they will still catch given the relative height of the edge to the base. I’ve had the completely round, the lightly dulled underfoot, the edge high, etc. I’m aware of all these things to take into consideration in regards to edge crack and pull out. I am not planning to hit rails until natural detune from skiing. I’m trying to find a nice middle ground between grip and absolutely no grip underfoot.

Also my tune is the same as K2 factory so it’s not that crazy lol

jompcockOnce I started doing 1º base and edge, and rounded the shit out of my edges binding to binding, I stopped catching on sticky rails entirely. Idk if you'd be able to escape edge contact on a down rail and I feel like it being thin would make it more likely to crack and pull out causing the core to get waterlogged and binding to pull out. It's fine to not care about the ski but try not to make more work for yourself. Just make sure you keep rounding underfoot if hitting rails cause that shit will crack fast if it slides on a rail while sharp, and sliding on rails will kind of sharpen them and the hot cold cycle will harden the steel making it harder to file.

paging @DominatorJacques

Just take your edges to a base grinder and take them all the way off, now THAT'S core

BradFiAusNzCoCaSo I was setting a base bevel and edge bevel. 1.5 base and 2 edge. I was going to town. Really cutting a lot of edge off which I’m not particularly worried about because I think these skis were just left at factory and never touched. I checked the factory tune numbers and it’s pretty minor compared to what I’m doing. Plus the edges were super banged up.

My question is: how do I know when I’m taking too much edge off? I can’t find anything online addressing this with side edge. Marker technique isn’t telling me enough.

Maybe @DominatorJacques has some sage words of wisdom?

On a side edge, you can't really take too much off. You can work the side edge a lot.
One MUST have a planer to remove side wall above the edge prior to filing, or the file won't work. A 7 degree sidewall planer works good. I use this in The Side Of The BEAST Pro. https://the-raceplace.com/collections/edge-tools/products/side-of-beast-angle-plate?variant=24944770119
On a base edge, it's another story. Base edge should not be filed once "set", only take off the highs with a fine stone, or ceramic stone. Base bevels always "grow" as one skis. The icier or harder snows work the base edge more.
No problem for playful park skiers. The more the base bevel, the more one needs edge angle to get a carve. That's why race skis for SL use .5 base bevel.
Anyway, this is all way more than I can type.
Just watch my video on how to tune a park ski. One does not need to do all I do there, but with YouTube speed up the video, and click forward to find what you need. The video is very repetitive, as you see me do all those things to all eight edges etc.

With really worked, or even new edges, 220 grit wet sandpaper is your friend.
Really, one just needs to take the time to watch the video.
Do you want to ski for years? If so, what's a good five-hour lesson worth? It's free! What you will learn, you will use for years!




https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/849783/Ski-Tuning-How-To-By-Hand-Park-Special
Also, one may watch my earlier Basic Tuning new ski video.

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/739780/How-To--New-Ski-Tuning--amp--Base-Preparation-Part-1

**This post was edited on Sep 10th 2021 at 9:00:21pm

Oh BTW, I was trying to do more edit to my post, but ran out of time.
The only way to reduce base bevel is to stone grind the base to include edges (blanking), and very few shops even can do, or know how.
Other than that, much improvement for base edge can be done by hand, but it's a lot of work. It's a slow process, but can be done.
Many new skis come with excessive base bevel.
This one is worth a watch.


https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/781970/How-To-Renew-A-Sintered-Base-Ski-and-Fix-Base-Burn

BradFiAusNzCoCaThese are skis I bought for cheap on eBay that I can absolutely willing to completely thrash including epoxying sidewall and Base because I will be in southeast conditions this year. I accept they will be my trash skis I can work on and destroy. I have others I take much better care of haha

Also, I have had edge high skis in the past. Screw that noise on rails.

When skis come edge high from the factory it’s utterly disappointing because all it does is speak to the lack of quality assurance.

Cough* V*lkl*cough

animatorWhen skis come edge high from the factory it’s utterly disappointing because all it does is speak to the lack of quality assurance.

Thank you for responding! You’re the man, @DominatorJacques !

DominatorJacquesOh BTW, I was trying to do more edit to my post, but ran out of time.
The only way to reduce base bevel is to stone grind the base to include edges (blanking), and very few shops even can do, or know how.
Other than that, much improvement for base edge can be done by hand, but it's a lot of work. It's a slow process, but can be done.
Many new skis come with excessive base bevel.
This one is worth a watch.


https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/781970/How-To-Renew-A-Sintered-Base-Ski-and-Fix-Base-Burn

BradFiAusNzCoCaCough* V*lkl*cough

Any brand that has all of the necessary machines has 0 excuse IMO. I’ve ordered direct from factory from Volkl, K2, ON3P, Moment, Line, Faction, DPS, and Armada and have yet to receive any skis edge high BUT if people are receiving skis that are either edge or base high, that means that there’s no consistency which is super disappointing

**This post was edited on Sep 11th 2021 at 12:19:35pm

It’s not always obvious on the shop floor

animatorAny brand that has all of the necessary machines has 0 excuse IMO. I’ve ordered direct from factory from Volkl, K2, ON3P, Moment, Line, Faction, DPS, and Armada and have yet to receive any skis edge high BUT if people are receiving skis that are either edge or base high, that means that there’s no consistency which is super disappointing

**This post was edited on Sep 11th 2021 at 12:19:35pm

BradFiAusNzCoCaIt’s not always obvious on the shop floor

This is true! Most people don’t know to even look for something like that honestly

I’ve been very unlucky with getting mediocre factory tunes from almost every manufacturer out there. Of my last 35 pairs of skis, only 4 pairs haven’t needed a stone grind to fix base flatness or base bevel(too high) issues before I even hit the edges and bases by hand. A $20 stone grind does wonders sometimes.

Even if the ski is flat from the factory, edge bevels are made more consistent and faster with hand tuning the edges with files/diamond stones. Most skis are “skiable” from the factory but all skis will be improved with a proper hand tune of edges and bases.

BradFiAusNzCoCaIt’s not always obvious on the shop floor

When looking at a new ski, always take a true bar with you. https://the-raceplace.com/collections/beast-tuning-tools/products/true-beast-ski-true-bar

animatorThis is true! Most people don’t know to even look for something like that honestly

^ above

Greg_KI’ve been very unlucky with getting mediocre factory tunes from almost every manufacturer out there. Of my last 35 pairs of skis, only 4 pairs haven’t needed a stone grind to fix base flatness or base bevel(too high) issues before I even hit the edges and bases by hand. A $20 stone grind does wonders sometimes.

Even if the ski is flat from the factory, edge bevels are made more consistent and faster with hand tuning the edges with files/diamond stones. Most skis are “skiable” from the factory but all skis will be improved with a proper hand tune of edges and bases.

Very true.

Also since this is a thread ab edge bevels, anyone ever set their base edge at 2 degrees? I think @katrina told me last year that it helps with not catching your edge on rails and dying, but you still have grip on hard snow. Curious if anyone else has done this

animatorAlso since this is a thread ab edge bevels, anyone ever set their base edge at 2 degrees? I think @katrina told me last year that it helps with not catching your edge on rails and dying, but you still have grip on hard snow. Curious if anyone else has done this

Will help on rails, but no grip on hard snow. The skis will be surffy fun though.