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SkibumsmithProbably gonna take the plunge and get a sled this summer so I can access the goods. (No idea what I'm getting yet)
Any slednecks out there?
Idk about sleds but I was promised snow ponies when I clicked on this thread so...
Shop around, Ski Doo, Polaris, Artic Cat, they all make a decent sled. If you are buying used, make sure it has been maintained, hasn’t been all suped up because if it has, there is a reason they are selling it. The more stock the better. Most people will change out the pipes or the resonator on them for more power, that is okay. Make sure the track is in good shape, older the sled, older the rubber track. Has it been stored outside? Storing one for a summer improperly can really take the life out of one too. I was a mechanic on them for many years past, dm if you have any questions when looking at one.
Way back when I had a buddy with an old artic kitty. Thing would damn near rip your fuckin arms out your sockets. So much fun. Lasted 1.5 seasons before he blew it up while still owing the bank like 8k on it lmao. That's the only experience I have with sleds really, things are big boy bucks for sure $$$
Get something similar to your homies (my crew all rides Ski Doo Summits), so if you blow a belt or have any other mechanical you have group knowledge and supplies to figure it out.
Depending on what you want to do with it (access only, sled lap skiing, strictly neckin'), getting something relatively modern is nice. Ski-Doo Summit models pre-XM (so everything pre-2011 or so) were all carbureted, did not have T-motion, and were way more prone to catastrophic mechanical failures. Upgrading from my old 2009 (XP) to a 2014 (XM) was a HUGE improvement for me. I've heard the jump to the modern 850's is less significant but still an improvement. I can't speak to other brands, but I'm sure there are nuances there too.
Lastly, know what you're getting into. This is expensive. You have to own a truck or trailer and any time you crash it into trees, etc you're going to be paying a lot to fix it. Depreciation is also very relevant, ~$1000/year (more for newer sleds). And its a lot of work and pretty dangerous. Make sure you have some trusted homies that are ready to help you figure it out.
mvfGet something similar to your homies (my crew all rides Ski Doo Summits), so if you blow a belt or have any other mechanical you have group knowledge and supplies to figure it out.
Depending on what you want to do with it (access only, sled lap skiing, strictly neckin'), getting something relatively modern is nice. Ski-Doo Summit models pre-XM (so everything pre-2011 or so) were all carbureted, did not have T-motion, and were way more prone to catastrophic mechanical failures. Upgrading from my old 2009 (XP) to a 2014 (XM) was a HUGE improvement for me. I've heard the jump to the modern 850's is less significant but still an improvement. I can't speak to other brands, but I'm sure there are nuances there too.
Lastly, know what you're getting into. This is expensive. You have to own a truck or trailer and any time you crash it into trees, etc you're going to be paying a lot to fix it. Depreciation is also very relevant, ~$1000/year (more for newer sleds). And its a lot of work and pretty dangerous. Make sure you have some trusted homies that are ready to help you figure it out.
mvfGet something similar to your homies (my crew all rides Ski Doo Summits), so if you blow a belt or have any other mechanical you have group knowledge and supplies to figure it out.
Depending on what you want to do with it (access only, sled lap skiing, strictly neckin'), getting something relatively modern is nice. Ski-Doo Summit models pre-XM (so everything pre-2011 or so) were all carbureted, did not have T-motion, and were way more prone to catastrophic mechanical failures. Upgrading from my old 2009 (XP) to a 2014 (XM) was a HUGE improvement for me. I've heard the jump to the modern 850's is less significant but still an improvement. I can't speak to other brands, but I'm sure there are nuances there too.
Lastly, know what you're getting into. This is expensive. You have to own a truck or trailer and any time you crash it into trees, etc you're going to be paying a lot to fix it. Depreciation is also very relevant, ~$1000/year (more for newer sleds). And its a lot of work and pretty dangerous. Make sure you have some trusted homies that are ready to help you figure it out.
Hit me up if you want more info.
Yeah I've had a few people tell me to get a summit. Somebody also recommended getting a Rev? (I don't see that model on their site). It's mostly for access to the alpine but I would like to have the ability to lap ski on deep days. I've got 5k budget USD.
Yeah I've seen my friends drain their bank accounts buying parts, gas etc haha. This has been a long time coming though. I'm going to try to stay mostly human powered but where I live (Kootenays) you need a sled to get most places.
SkibumsmithYeah I've had a few people tell me to get a summit. Somebody also recommended getting a Rev? (I don't see that model on their site). It's mostly for access to the alpine but I would like to have the ability to lap ski on deep days. I've got 5k budget USD.
Yeah I've seen my friends drain their bank accounts buying parts, gas etc haha. This has been a long time coming though. I'm going to try to stay mostly human powered but where I live (Kootenays) you need a sled to get most places.
I may be wrong but I think the REV was one their early 2000's chassis styles, which all their future mountain sleds then descended from. They may have precluded their later sleds models with REV, so I think it gets confusing. If you go Ski Doo, definitely get a Summit. That's their mountain sled (as opposed to a trail sled).
You are probably surrounded by sled deals if you're willing to expand your geographical buying window. I would look at Kijiji, Craigslist, and Facebook marketplace in Alberta, Whistler/Vancouver, Revelstoke, and Kamloops. http://www.snowest.com also has a buy and sell forum. As long as its relatively new, the lower the KMs the better.
Like someone said before, if you're buying it used I would look for something as stock as possible (minor things like finger throttles, etc don't matter tho) and *for sure* bring it to the local shop to have it checked out first, especially if you don't know what to look for yourself. I bought my last sled in Edmonton, paid to have it checked over by the local shop there before pulling the trigger, and then had it shipped to me in Vancouver for $300 using uship.com.
mvfI may be wrong but I think the REV was one their early 2000's chassis styles, which all their future mountain sleds then descended from. They may have precluded their later sleds models with REV, so I think it gets confusing. If you go Ski Doo, definitely get a Summit. That's their mountain sled (as opposed to a trail sled).
You are probably surrounded by sled deals if you're willing to expand your geographical buying window. I would look at Kijiji, Craigslist, and Facebook marketplace in Alberta, Whistler/Vancouver, Revelstoke, and Kamloops. http://www.snowest.com also has a buy and sell forum. As long as its relatively new, the lower the KMs the better.
Like someone said before, if you're buying it used I would look for something as stock as possible (minor things like finger throttles, etc don't matter tho) and *for sure* bring it to the local shop to have it checked out first, especially if you don't know what to look for yourself. I bought my last sled in Edmonton, paid to have it checked over by the local shop there before pulling the trigger, and then had it shipped to me in Vancouver for $300 using uship.com.
Word thanks man. This is all great info. In your experience is it easy to convince a seller to take it to a shop to have it inspected then go through the trouble of shipping it?
I ride a ski doo summit 800r and highly recommend, my squad is split 50-50 between summits and polaris rmk 800s and the summits were the only sleds to not have mechanical problems this winter. i've always heard to stay away from arctic kats and yamahas. also when you go to look at the sled, bring a compression gauge to make sure there's no loss of power in the cylinders. and make sure you invest in a decent trailer to haul (or a sled deck) and a full face helmet for the days that you decide to leave the skis in your car- because I promise you'll end up sledding more than you sledski haha, feel free to pm me with any specific questions
This was my First year sledding, had an 09 ski doo summit xp.
I would highly recommend getting at least a 2013, the chasis changed from the xp to the xm which got significantly easier to make tough maneuvers on, from the 2013 to I think 2016 was the same, and then the newest generation came out with the 850 engines, the difference in driving a XM vs the newer ones is pretty minimal compared to going from an XP to and XM. My recommendation is to find a 13-16 XM T3 (meaning it has 3” paddles on the track), look for one with low miles or a recently rebuilt top end. The top end needs be done about every 1200 miles I was told.
track length totally depends how big you are, my 09 was a 163, I’m pretty small so could definitely have gone with a 154 but the longer track was nice for doubling. I also rode a 174 in the newer generation and didn’t have any issues moving that around so the difference isn’t too extreme, especially if using it more to access skiing than sled necking.
GeorgeWBushI ride a ski doo summit 800r and highly recommend, my squad is split 50-50 between summits and polaris rmk 800s and the summits were the only sleds to not have mechanical problems this winter. i've always heard to stay away from arctic kats and yamahas. also when you go to look at the sled, bring a compression gauge to make sure there's no loss of power in the cylinders. and make sure you invest in a decent trailer to haul (or a sled deck) and a full face helmet for the days that you decide to leave the skis in your car- because I promise you'll end up sledding more than you sledski haha, feel free to pm me with any specific questions
TheWeazThis was my First year sledding, had an 09 ski doo summit xp.
I would highly recommend getting at least a 2013, the chasis changed from the xp to the xm which got significantly easier to make tough maneuvers on, from the 2013 to I think 2016 was the same, and then the newest generation came out with the 850 engines, the difference in driving a XM vs the newer ones is pretty minimal compared to going from an XP to and XM. My recommendation is to find a 13-16 XM T3 (meaning it has 3” paddles on the track), look for one with low miles or a recently rebuilt top end. The top end needs be done about every 1200 miles I was told.
track length totally depends how big you are, my 09 was a 163, I’m pretty small so could definitely have gone with a 154 but the longer track was nice for doubling. I also rode a 174 in the newer generation and didn’t have any issues moving that around so the difference isn’t too extreme, especially if using it more to access skiing than sled necking.
All super good info. Thanks you guys much appreciated.
SkibumsmithJust saw this one on the buy and sell. What do you guys think?
1500km is a few hundred miles from needing a rebuild so depends how much you plan on riding in a year, some people put on 1000 some people put on 100, totally depends how far out you are taking it each time.
the 174 will be a little long if your trying to ride tight stuff, but will be able to pull straight up hills well and will be especially nice while doubling.
TheWeaz1500km is a few hundred miles from needing a rebuild so depends how much you plan on riding in a year, some people put on 1000 some people put on 100, totally depends how far out you are taking it each time.
the 174 will be a little long if your trying to ride tight stuff, but will be able to pull straight up hills well and will be especially nice while doubling.
agreed, might try and get the price down a bit for that many miles, also replaced motors are never the same as the original. do you have experience working on small engines or the time to learn how? taking a sled to the shop every time will add up big time
GeorgeWBushagreed, might try and get the price down a bit for that many miles, also replaced motors are never the same as the original. do you have experience working on small engines or the time to learn how? taking a sled to the shop every time will add up big time
Thanks for the advice. I'll hold out for now.
I have no experience with small engines haha.
TheWeaz1500km is a few hundred miles from needing a rebuild so depends how much you plan on riding in a year, some people put on 1000 some people put on 100, totally depends how far out you are taking it each time.
Is that like a rule of thumb? 2000km in between rebuilds on 2 stroke engines?
Thanks
SkibumsmithIs that like a rule of thumb? 2000km in between rebuilds on 2 stroke engines?
Thanks
Its kinda preventative rebuilds at around 1200 miles, because if you let the top end blow up you almost alway need a whole new engine which is way more expensive than just rebuilding it during the off season.
also towing a blown sled out can be horrible depending on where it blows up, best to avoid that if you can.
TheWeazIts kinda preventative rebuilds at around 1200 miles, because if you let the top end blow up you almost alway need a whole new engine which is way more expensive than just rebuilding it during the off season.
also towing a blown sled out can be horrible depending on where it blows up, best to avoid that if you can.
What do you mean by top end? Like what parts are reaching their fatigue life?
I’m not super knowledgeable about motors but I believe the top end is the pistons and rings and the bottom end is the crankshaft, but you can look up how to rebuild your specific motor and find a youtube video, I know a lot of people who do it in their garage and two stroke motors aren’t too complicated so if you are mechanically inclines you can rebuild it yourself.
be generous on upkeep, my guy. you get out of your sled what you put in so take care of her. grew up around snowmobiles back east and rode a little bit out here but everyone i remember that had sweet older/used sleds took decent care of them.
and uh dont store them on your lawn with a tarp over the summer, shits bound to blow up on you eventually
**This post was edited on Jun 12th 2020 at 5:29:00pm
**This post was edited on Jun 12th 2020 at 5:31:01pm
Can someone give me a quick run down on what's important in a used sled?
Mileage? Track? Length? Weight? Looking on splitting one with someone and doubling up or switching off.
elm.Can someone give me a quick run down on what's important in a used sled?
Mileage? Track? Length? Weight? Looking on splitting one with someone and doubling up or switching off.
For sled skiing in my experience, Doo's tend to double up better than cats and poo's. Get an 800 or 850 with a 154 or longer.
When you go look at it, as one person before said, check the compression. Have the seller tip the sled on its side and check the carbides and hifax that they have adequate wear left. Start the sled. More than 3 pulls and sometimes there are challenges. If you can have a buddy hold the track off the ground, and open all the side panels and rev the engine and spin the track. You are looking to see that the clutch sheethes are engaging and disengaging freely and that the drivers are spinning the track easily and not binding.
Look the bottom of the machine up and down for any impact areas. You are trying to see that the bulkhead is straight. Look the tunnel up and down to see that its straight and doesn't have any creases or dents. Wiggle all the A-arms and see if there is much play in the bushings.
Machines that have been ridden really hard and not maintained, you'll find faults in these areas. Heavy tunnel wear, bend running boards, blown out bushings, low compression, usually show up on sleds that were manhandled more.
If buying used, the sled you're looking for is the sled of someone not particularly aggressive, who has money, who didn't ride it nearly as much as they thought they would, mostly rode the trails and open powder areas, didn't get into aggressive climbing and boondocking.
Also, people who maintain machines well are proud to tell you about it.
