Sorry, another wax thread: is swix bp88 really ok to use as all in one wax?

Also, do ski bases need to be waxed to prevent them from drying out or is this guy just a massive idiot?

**This post was edited on Mar 30th 2020 at 8:29:46pm

I do storage wax on all my skis. I figure it can’t hurt and I’m going to wax them for the first day anyways. Now all I have to do is scrape before the first day.

Is there actually any hard science comparisons of waxes, and their efficacy in various snow temp/structure? Seems like there's a lot of voodoo otherwise.

a_pla5tic_bagIs there actually any hard science comparisons of waxes, and their efficacy in various snow temp/structure? Seems like there's a lot of voodoo otherwise.

I feel like theres a ton of this from racing teams and national racing teams....doubt we will see much of it though.



Plus there really isn't a huge need for anyone on this site to be getting that specific, we arent attempting to shave hundredths of seconds off a time.

a_pla5tic_bagIs there actually any hard science comparisons of waxes, and their efficacy in various snow temp/structure? Seems like there's a lot of voodoo otherwise.

Srsly. Its a fucking shitshow of personal opinions.
What do the guys that wax skis for a living use on their own setups?

Profahoben_212I feel like theres a ton of this from racing teams and national racing teams....doubt we will see much of it though.



Plus there really isn't a huge need for anyone on this site to be getting that specific, we arent attempting to shave hundredths of seconds off a time.

Still id like to be able to slide easily on traverses and shit.



im also interested in protecting the base material underneath the wax.

I work in a shop and wax all my skis. BP88 is fine for skiing on. There are better options. For early or late season before it gets too cold BP88 is fine. CH are better and LF even better. LF is probably not worth the cost except for special occasions.

Scrapping and brushing well make a huge difference. I smoke all my friends on cat tracks and traverses mainly due to this. I make sure their skis are in good shape but they wax and scrape their own crap.

None of this makes much of a difference if you ski bases are dirtier than hell. Go get a tune and start waxing from there again.

armada1652I work in a shop and wax all my skis. BP88 is fine for skiing on. There are better options. For early or late season before it gets too cold BP88 is fine. CH are better and LF even better. LF is probably not worth the cost except for special occasions.

Scrapping and brushing well make a huge difference. I smoke all my friends on cat tracks and traverses mainly due to this. I make sure their skis are in good shape but they wax and scrape their own crap.

None of this makes much of a difference if you ski bases are dirtier than hell. Go get a tune and start waxing from there again.

What would a tune do that you cant do by yourself? Scraping out all the old wax all the way down to the ptex? What?

DolanReloadedWhat would a tune do that you cant do by yourself? Scraping out all the old wax all the way down to the ptex? What?

If the ski has been well used and skied in dirty snow without a tune the top surface of base material is crap and wont take much wax. You need to RIP that surface off and get to the fresh stuff.

Waxing always helps no matter what. But dont waist too much good wax(LF) if you havent gotten your ski ripped down a machine recently.

Also when you hot wax the wax goes into the pours of the ski base. So after waxing you always scrape all the way to the base material. No wax left on the surface is the goal. It just sounded like above you have been leaving some wax on the ski. You only leave wax on the base for storage(if you like).