Attack 11 VS 13+ Mounting question

JoeFI bought a set of skis last season that came packaged with Attack 11s. I ended up having the shop mount them for me, and am now regretting not upgrading to a different binding like the Attack 13 or higher that has the better heel piece.

Is anyone familiar with the mounting pattern of the 11 vs the higher-end models in regards to whether or not this would be a straight swap/line up without a re-drill?

Same holes pattern so do them by hand to prevent stripping, re-glue and mount up the 13s.

Greg_KSame holes pattern so do them by hand to prevent stripping, re-glue and mount up the 13s.

Appreciate the reply man! Do you have any idea if the mounting pattern changed at all between the original attack and attack2 models by chance? I haven't purchased the new set of bindings just yet.

**This post was edited on Jan 5th 2020 at 10:17:56pm

mounting pattern hasn't changed in a long time. It's the same for my 10 year old peak 18 as it is for my new attacks.

Make sure to use a Posi-drive 3 screwdriver. They are a little hard to find/unnecessarily expensive to buy a posi 3 screwdriver, but you can buy the bit for cheap at most hardware stores and just use a standard bit driver.

No.Quartermounting pattern hasn't changed in a long time. It's the same for my 10 year old peak 18 as it is for my new attacks.

Make sure to use a Posi-drive 3 screwdriver. They are a little hard to find/unnecessarily expensive to buy a posi 3 screwdriver, but you can buy the bit for cheap at most hardware stores and just use a standard bit driver.

I wasn't even originally intending to do this work myself as I've never mounted a set of bindings, or really looked into the whole process (I know there's a bunch of threads/tutorials on here that I will watch) but I do know that the initial drilling process w/ jig is really where the whole process can get messed up, which is why I've never done it.

That said, I'm a pretty technical guy, have a background working as a mechanic/building cars, have plenty of tools etc, and wouldn't mind buying a posi 3 bit for one of my drivers if this swap is really as simple as it sounds.

JoeFI wasn't even originally intending to do this work myself as I've never mounted a set of bindings, or really looked into the whole process (I know there's a bunch of threads/tutorials on here that I will watch) but I do know that the initial drilling process w/ jig is really where the whole process can get messed up, which is why I've never done it.

That said, I'm a pretty technical guy, have a background working as a mechanic/building cars, have plenty of tools etc, and wouldn't mind buying a posi 3 bit for one of my drivers if this swap is really as simple as it sounds.

If you can turn a screw and not strip threads you should be fine. They are just like any other threaded feature you have used, you just need to be a little more careful to not damage the threads. Use a small amount of wood glue when re-installing to both lubricate the threads and take up space in the threads, do not over torque! Some people use epoxy, but this is overkill and can to lead to tearing out threads for future removal. If there is minor damage to the threads when removing the old bindings, you can mix some wood dust into your wood glue for extra strength and use even more caution to not over torque. This is also a good time to check for "volcanoing" of the holes. If they were originally mounted sloppily there may have been a small amount of material at the topsheet pushed up kinda like a shallow volcano or a zit, which can cause the binding to not sit flat on the ski, increasing the precious stack height of those bindings. I use one of those curved yellow scraper/planer things (typically sold by all of the other planers in the hardware store) to make sure the top sheet is flat and then make sure to get all of the debris out of the hole (also great for scraping PTex repairs). Or you could do a slight countersink but you need to be really careful because it is really easy to go too deep with a countersink into the short threads.

No.QuarterIf you can turn a screw and not strip threads you should be fine. They are just like any other threaded feature you have used, you just need to be a little more careful to not damage the threads. Use a small amount of wood glue when re-installing to both lubricate the threads and take up space in the threads, do not over torque! Some people use epoxy, but this is overkill and can to lead to tearing out threads for future removal. If there is minor damage to the threads when removing the old bindings, you can mix some wood dust into your wood glue for extra strength and use even more caution to not over torque. This is also a good time to check for "volcanoing" of the holes. If they were originally mounted sloppily there may have been a small amount of material at the topsheet pushed up kinda like a shallow volcano or a zit, which can cause the binding to not sit flat on the ski, increasing the precious stack height of those bindings. I use one of those curved yellow scraper/planer things (typically sold by all of the other planers in the hardware store) to make sure the top sheet is flat and then make sure to get all of the debris out of the hole (also great for scraping PTex repairs). Or you could do a slight countersink but you need to be really careful because it is really easy to go too deep with a countersink into the short threads.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. The whole install process doesn't seem/sound bad at all. However, I've never messed around with binding settings/forward pressure etc, so I may just drop them off to my buddies shop and let him take care of it for me to be safe.

When you said the mounting pattern hasn't changed in quite some time. Does that mean I can replace these Attacks with something like a Pivot or other brand without issue as well?

Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

JoeFWhen you said the mounting pattern hasn't changed in quite some time. Does that mean I can replace these Attacks with something like a Pivot or other brand without issue as well?

No I mean that Tyrolia hasn't changed their mounting pattern in a while. It is not the same as other brands such as salomon, look, or marker.
Tyrolia has also been branded by others as well inlcluding 4frnt, elan, head, and fischer.

No.QuarterNo I mean that Tyrolia hasn't changed their mounting pattern in a while. It is not the same as other brands such as salomon, look, or marker.
Tyrolia has also been branded by others as well inlcluding 4frnt, elan, head, and fischer.

Got it, I thought so as I always see people saying ski has been mounted X times for X binding. I've enjoyed riding the Attack 13s I have on the rest of my skis, so I will stick to those for ease.