Binding AFDs

I don’t know what the advantages/disadvantages are aside from the static afd weighing more and being weaker. I blew up one of my sliding ones and hadn’t bailed that day or ridden harder than usual.

Young_IPMCI don’t know what the advantages/disadvantages are aside from the static afd weighing more and being weaker. I blew up one of my sliding ones and hadn’t bailed that day or ridden harder than usual.

I thought static would be stronger and lighter. A strip of Teflon vs a couple plastic pieces and a spring?


not claiming to know. Just seems that way to me

SofaKingSickI thought static would be stronger and lighter. A strip of Teflon vs a couple plastic pieces and a spring?


not claiming to know. Just seems that way to me

It may be anecdotal, but I'm comparing an axium2 120 toepiece to what I believe is an axial2 120 one. No doubt the axial was made to be more durable, but I can't seem to find anything else in rossi's lineup with a static afd aside from the fks. Are you comparing a specific model?

Young_IPMCIt may be anecdotal, but I'm comparing an axium2 120 toepiece to what I believe is an axial2 120 one. No doubt the axial was made to be more durable, but I can't seem to find anything else in rossi's lineup with a static afd aside from the fks. Are you comparing a specific model?

The first one that comes to mind is the pivot 18 toe piece having a static afd 🤷‍♂️

SofaKingSickThe first one that comes to mind is the pivot 18 toe piece having a static afd 🤷‍♂️

Well yes, all fks and pivot bindings have static afds. The only other bindings by them with a static afd are the spx/axial, which is meant to be a burlier version of the axium.

I don’t know if the reason my axial toe is heavier than the axium one is because the afd itself is heavier, or because the rest of the toepiece is, but there is a trend here in that heavier toepieces have static afds.

i would think a mechanical afd would produce a smoother release, but the fixed afd would seem to have more power transfer. I rode a mech afd on markers, didnt really like it.

fixed afd on pivots and sth2. love it and havent had issues

Adjustable afd on attacks suck they always come loose

There’s a bit of confusion here as some of you are complaining about improperly set up toe height/AFD thinking that is the factor of the AFD type which isn’t usually the case.

The fixed AFD made from Teflon like in a Look/Pivot or Salomon or the metal mechanical sliding AFD on a Marker or Tyrolia both work great if they are in good shape, although the mechanical AFD release is usually smoother and more consistent. Wear can occur on the fixed AFD so it should be monitored to make sure it’s still even and slippery. Snow, boot wear etc can clog either system so make sure your boots are free of that.

The difference you are feeling in the bindings is the difference between auto toe height systems in the Look vs adjustable toe height(Salomon) or adjustable AFD height(Tyrolia/Marker).

With many Look bindings like the Pivot, there is only Alpine/Gripwalk settings and it auto adjusts for toe height. The issue is when your boot toe is worn and out of the “auto adjust” range, you can’t adjust for that and new soles/boots required.

With Salomon you adjust the wings DOWN onto the boot toe and with Marker/Tyrolia you move the AFD UP under the boot toe. If these are set properly, there should be very little difference in feel.

I bet 75% of Toe Height/AFD are incorrectly set up causing a “loose feeling” or pre-releases. Any time I see “Attacks/Griffons/Salomon bindings suck” thread posted, I’d put money on them being mid-adjusted.

THE KEY STEP MOST TECHS MISS/FORGET TO DO BEFORE ADJUSTING TOE HEIGHT/AFD, IS TO PUT HEAVY PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BOOT TO WHEELIE THE TOE UP TO REMOVE SLACK AND THEN YOU ADJUST FOR 0-0.5mm(RESISTANCE ON A BUSINESS CARD) WHILE YOU ARE STILL APPLYING PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BOOT.

Greg_KTHE KEY STEP MOST TECHS MISS/FORGET TO DO BEFORE ADJUSTING TOE HEIGHT/AFD, IS TO PUT HEAVY PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BOOT TO WHEELIE THE TOE UP TO REMOVE SLACK AND THEN YOU ADJUST FOR 0-0.5mm(RESISTANCE ON A BUSINESS CARD) WHILE YOU ARE STILL APPLYING PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BOOT.

This ^

sadly i had to learn this the hard way with my sth2s...and eventually caught on just by playing around with it. almost lost a couple skis in deep pow due to pre releases on cliff drops. once toe height was set properly... no issues

**This post was edited on Jan 2nd 2020 at 12:57:32am

mechanical AFD is more consistent and is needed for boots with rubber soles.