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hippystinxwardens are the best most durable smooth releasing "park" binding i have ever skied. Screw marker, screw the pivot. The attack is an okay binding, but is breakable. I have skied 4 seasons on the same pair of wardens 40+ days a year on the binding and they are still good.
.nastyThere is no best, just differences.
Just don't get Attacks, they're light and the toe delivers a decent power transfer, but that twin cam heel is such old technology (a technology that only the attack is still using, and it's garbage).
yhprum1720This is the first time I'veve heard this opinion on the Attacks. Any more info on the heel?
Trying to decide if pivots are worth the extra chunk of change over a set of attack 13s.
Also curious if there is any reason to get a Pivot 14 over a Pivot 12 if I'm running 8.5 din
rschultz88I don't really know how the rest of you feel about Marker, but I'm running some old ass Griffons, and they are absolute beasts. It may be difficult to find that year of them, but there are some out there on eBay. However, you may also get a junk pair of skis attached to them. Anyway, I have noticed that the bindings hold up really well, even if the release is not the smoothest. It kind of depends on what qualities you are looking for.
hippystinxwardens are the best most durable smooth releasing "park" binding i have ever skied. Screw marker, screw the pivot. The attack is an okay binding, but is breakable. I have skied 4 seasons on the same pair of wardens 40+ days a year on the binding and they are still good.
.nastyThere is no best, just differences.
Want huge power transfer? Marker.
Want great release? Look.
That's a simplified version, you can go way more in depth. Just don't get Attacks, they're light and the toe delivers a decent power transfer, but that twin cam heel is such old technology (a technology that only the attack is still using, and it's garbage).
BasedSkierNope, my homie had a pair and he skied them 70+ days hard park and urban and he said they were the worst bindings hes ever used and i believe him. On multiple occasions he would land perfect and the binding would just release on him even with dialled settings.
This is the truth fr, marker is shit on a bit too hard because of squires, but jesters and griffons are a solid option. And i agree attacks are pretty sketch, i had attack2s and they pre released like crazy every switch landing.
Tldr: buy pivots fuck wardens and markers are alright as long as they arent squires
animatorI second this, I have never had an issue with Markers. I have a Griffon and a Jester as well as Pivot 14s/Rossi FKSs (older ones) and new 15s as well. Don’t have any gripes about any of them. Attacks are a good budget choice but the heel tech is out of date like @.nasty said. STHs are fine but aren’t worth the weight IMO and wardens are garbage for anyone over 15
BasedSkierNope, my homie had a pair and he skied them 70+ days hard park and urban and he said they were the worst bindings hes ever used and i believe him. On multiple occasions he would land perfect and the binding would just release on him even with dialled settings.
This is the truth fr, marker is shit on a bit too hard because of squires, but jesters and griffons are a solid option. And i agree attacks are pretty sketch, i had attack2s and they pre released like crazy every switch landing.
Tldr: buy pivots fuck wardens and markers are alright as long as they arent squires
broken_skier0What makes something a park binding?
Greg_KAttacks, Markers and Salomon all have adjustment for DIN, forward pressure and toe height and toe height is MAYBE set properly about 25% of the time. The ties are not adjusted to get rid of slack and tricks like butters and twisting maneuvers make them pre-release when everything else set properly. When toe height set properly, the binding will feel super solid and connected and will still release when needed.
To properly set AFD height in the toe, put a business card under your boot toe and step boot into binding. Take one hand and pull back on the rear boot cuff HARD to try lift/wheelie the toe up and THEN try to remove the business card from under the boot. With the toe lifted to remove slack, you will find most bindings out there will have low AFD heights.
Now adjust the toe height/AFD height until you can be lifting the toe from the rear cuff hard and that business card is getting tough to remove but not ripping.
Guarantee your bindings will feel more solid and not pre-release after you do the “wheelie” step before adjustment.
Cheers!
PotguyIdk if I'm just unlucky but I've had two pairs of Griffons get "loose" after 2 seasons. The toe just starts chattering around and doesn't keep my boot in place. Adjusting forward pressure didn't solve it and the screws weren't pulling out. Now I ride pivots and can't complain.
Greg_KAnother case of AFD on the toe not set correctly. They probably always had extra slack in the toe which got worse with boot sole wear etc. If they were adjusted properly in the first place and checked once or twice a year, they would have felt solid the whole time.
You don’t have to adjust the AFD on Look bindings as they auto adjust within a certain range so you only run into issues with those if the boot sole wear is severe. Might have to get replacement boot soles or even new boots then.
PotguyShould’ve mentioned this in my original post but I’m pretty confident it wasn’t AFD issue either because you could wiggle the entire toe piece by hand with like 5mm of play. The whole thing would get lose as a goose.
Could this have been cause by the AFD not being set correctly in the first place? For sure. But still, I’m on the fuck griffons bandwagon.
.nastyI sounded so harsh a year ago against attacks, but I still would never really suggest them unless your sole purpose is have one of the lightest options that doesn't break the bank. The point still remains that the twin cam heel is old technology and I know I like better/smoother release, which attacks do not provide.
shin-bangIm intrigued by this. The attacks run a twin cam system for the heel? maybe you could explain more. I would really like to understand the mechanics of the twin cam, as well as the other systems of pivots and STH2. Im a pivot and sth2 fan, but it would be nice to know the mechanics of why the other bindings are better options.