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whats the consensus on these? I've had a few pairs of older pivots/FKS for a few years but the oldest set are falling apart now and rather then keep throwing spare parts in them I want to buy some new bindings. I remember there being some issues with these or something back when they first came out, or people were saying the new toe piece sucks. Any thoughts?
a_burgerwhats the consensus on these? I've had a few pairs of older pivots/FKS for a few years but the oldest set are falling apart now and rather then keep throwing spare parts in them I want to buy some new bindings. I remember there being some issues with these or something back when they first came out, or people were saying the new toe piece sucks. Any thoughts?
Are the AW replacing the WTR or the other way around?
One of the years has a toepiece that isn't really adjustable, it only has two positions and some people have had slop/play issues .
shin-bangHaving ridden both 14s and 18s I will never ride 14s ever. Toe piece is totally worth it
It also has no vertical release which probably 75% of the people using them would benefit having as they don't ride hard enough to justify an 18. The 18 toe has a better power transfer sure, but it's overkill for most unless you just have that small dick syndrome.
.nastyIt also has no vertical release which probably 75% of the people using them would benefit having as they don't ride hard enough to justify an 18. The 18 toe has a better power transfer sure, but it's overkill for most unless you just have that small dick syndrome.
I wasn’t really taking this thread seriously. Hence my 18 din or nothing suggestion. As well as the 18 vs 14 debate has been brought up thousands of times.
But, since you spoke up, I don’t believe that’s true about vertical release.
A. I can turn my din all the way down and I can lift the back end of the toe piece up, simulating a toe release. As well as having released from them before. If I had my skis with me I could make a video.
B. Evo seems to support my experience and theory.
(Note, this schematic was for the 18s, not the 14s)
But yea, that’s what I’ve come to understand.
I know plenty of people including pros that weigh around a buck 50 using 18s, and riding them at low settings because the better toe piece and feel.
shin-bangI wasn’t really taking this thread seriously. Hence my 18 din or nothing suggestion. As well as the 18 vs 14 debate has been brought up thousands of times.
But, since you spoke up, I don’t believe that’s true about vertical release.
A. I can turn my din all the way down and I can lift the back end of the toe piece up, simulating a toe release. As well as having released from them before. If I had my skis with me I could make a video.
B. Evo seems to support my experience and theory.
(Note, this schematic was for the 18s, not the 14s)
But yea, that’s what I’ve come to understand.
I know plenty of people including pros that weigh around a buck 50 using 18s, and riding them at low settings because the better toe piece and feel.
Pertaining to the part about buying 18s for the better toe piece and feel and riding low settings....
Would this not cause pre release and just overall malfunction .... I’ve always been told bindings don’t work really close like within 2 of their max and min
I just bought 14s bc of this , I don’t need 18s
However, I’m in need of another binding in the 117+ , for powder , and I haven’t mounted the 14s yet , so if there’s something I’m missing ...
SavageBiffPertaining to the part about buying 18s for the better toe piece and feel and riding low settings....
Would this not cause pre release and just overall malfunction .... I’ve always been told bindings don’t work really close like within 2 of their max and min
I just bought 14s bc of this , I don’t need 18s
However, I’m in need of another binding in the 117+ , for powder , and I haven’t mounted the 14s yet , so if there’s something I’m missing ...
That is the saying, but most shops with a release test will 9/10 times prove that they are reliable at a low setting. Same with other brands of bindings as well.
The only time I would worry is if you’re at the bottom half of an 8. Solid 8, and 8.5 and above I would have no worries. I’ve had friends ride theirs at 8 (he rocks the white look pivot 18s) the whole season and no issues. Just as long as your not trying to go below the lowest setting. As well on the other side of the spectrum I’ve cranked some 14s up high and also have had no release issues with being “too close” to 14.
If you’re peepin some new binders I’d go pivot 18 or sth2. Both sth2 13 and 16 have the same toe piece. Sth toes do have more adjustability but that introduces more pros and cons. Attacks are solid but I have no experience so can’t speak on them.
Snag some 18s if you want the classic pivot feel with a lot better power transfer. 👍
mystery3Are the AW replacing the WTR or the other way around?
One of the years has a toepiece that isn't really adjustable, it only has two positions and some people have had slop/play issues .
The AW is replacing the WTR. It is true true true that the WTR toe piece is bunk. They will still pass release tests, but there is considerable play that cannot be remedied with some boots.
I already bought pivot aw 14s in a 95 for my apostles but they r not mounted
I could maybe return or sell or even test em out for the community see if they e improved???
I’m not looking at sth2 for outlines for deep pow
Really just looking to learn as much as possible as my quiver expands the old gets recycled needs replaced new shot comes out that I absolutely must have lol
SavageBiffI already bought pivot aw 14s in a 95 for my apostles but they r not mounted
I could maybe return or sell or even test em out for the community see if they e improved???
I’m not looking at sth2 for outlines for deep pow
Really just looking to learn as much as possible as my quiver expands the old gets recycled needs replaced new shot comes out that I absolutely must have lol
I rode AW's all this season with zero issues. They're solid.
AW is replacing WTR as GripWalk soled boots become more common. They're basically the same thing.
I don't understand why they don't just make a removable AFD and sell the p-18s with both AFD's.
It's a tiny plastic piece with some teflon, can't cost more than $1-2 to make an AFD.
And for us 200+ pounders, it really is "18's or nothin".
I ski them at a 14-din and have double ejected many times when I fuck up.
Cheech_SanderAW is replacing WTR as GripWalk soled boots become more common. They're basically the same thing.
I don't understand why they don't just make a removable AFD and sell the p-18s with both AFD's.
It's a tiny plastic piece with some teflon, can't cost more than $1-2 to make an AFD.
And for us 200+ pounders, it really is "18's or nothin".
I ski them at a 14-din and have double ejected many times when I fuck up.
I vary in weight 185/205 usually mid 190s , I’ve skied 205 tho , I’ve never felt a need for more than an 11 din
So the next question I guess is, for those of us who use our gripwalk boots for the everyday - is the pivot AW still among the best park/resort bindings that features an adjustable AFD? Or would one look into attacks or solly sth's since it isn't the p15/18 metal toe?
I always just assumed I'd be putting pivots on my new jeffrey 96s but now who knows?
KevskiSo the next question I guess is, for those of us who use our gripwalk boots for the everyday - is the pivot AW still among the best park/resort bindings that features an adjustable AFD? Or would one look into attacks or solly sth's since it isn't the p15/18 metal toe?
I always just assumed I'd be putting pivots on my new jeffrey 96s but now who knows?
