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On amazon you get pivot 14 for 240 and get pivot 18 for 260 and I’m going to get a pair should I get the 18 even though I don’t need the 18 din and only ski a din of 10
Well you don’t really need them, im assuming that your a heavier fella since you were saying that you would go with a 10 din. So I really don’t think that you would move up in the dins or even use anything past 14. So save ur 20$ and the weight and go with the 14’s.
AJ.NormandWell you don’t really need them, im assuming that your a heavier fella since you were saying that you would go with a 10 din. So I really don’t think that you would move up in the dins or even use anything past 14. So save ur 20$ and the weight and go with the 14’s.
My recommended din is 8 but I changed it up to 10 on my own because my skis would come if I I did something as simple as came up short on a jump or would that juts be another reason to get the 14’s?
downsides are the tiny price difference and the fact that you'll be pretty low on the DIN range. upsides are the better toe piece and probably better longevity/durability
thing is, i feel like ive never gotten a good answer on the question of whether it truly matters where you are on the binding's din range. ive heard experienced knowledgeable binding people on both sides of the answer
also this is why they need to bring back the 15s, or just give the 14 the better toe piece. having to jump to an 18 din binding for that is stupid
SofaKingSickdownsides are the tiny price difference and the fact that you'll be pretty low on the DIN range. upsides are the better toe piece and probably better longevity/durability
thing is, i feel like ive never gotten a good answer on the question of whether it truly matters where you are on the binding's din range. ive heard experienced knowledgeable binding people on both sides of the answer
also this is why they need to bring back the 15s, or just give the 14 the better toe piece. having to jump to an 18 din binding for that is stupid
I have seen it matter in pivots actually more then other bindings. Any binding run right at the bottom end of the range has Te potential for the din adjuster and spring to back out fully. I have seen a pivot 18 where they were run at minimum and the user lost the spring. Mid range will always be bes I think but minimum is a no go from wha I have seen.
The 14 too is more then enough for most people. The 18 is really for guys who wreck anything and everything, but considering how easy the heel can break these days the 14 toe will be more then enough anyway haha
tomPietrowskiI have seen it matter in pivots actually more then other bindings. Any binding run right at the bottom end of the range has Te potential for the din adjuster and spring to back out fully. I have seen a pivot 18 where they were run at minimum and the user lost the spring. Mid range will always be bes I think but minimum is a no go from wha I have seen.
The 14 too is more then enough for most people. The 18 is really for guys who wreck anything and everything, but considering how easy the heel can break these days the 14 toe will be more then enough anyway haha
that's frustating that the DIN range can't be fully trusted to its margins, especially in situations like this
also disappointing that im starting to think people are right that the build quality is going down somewhat. i have pivots from early 2000s that are still kicking so i'm not happy to hear i might be downgrading in a sense when i replace them
tomPietrowskiI have seen it matter in pivots actually more then other bindings. Any binding run right at the bottom end of the range has Te potential for the din adjuster and spring to back out fully. I have seen a pivot 18 where they were run at minimum and the user lost the spring. Mid range will always be bes I think but minimum is a no go from wha I have seen.
The 14 too is more then enough for most people. The 18 is really for guys who wreck anything and everything, but considering how easy the heel can break these days the 14 toe will be more then enough anyway haha
In ops case though, he would be riding at 10, i believe that would be sufficient tension to hold the spring in. it makes sense why it would pop out if youre barely running an 8. i agree with what you said but why not get a metal toe piece for 20 extra bucks
that being said i have a friend who rocks white 18s at an 8-9. lighter weight dude with the cast system. no issues.
without name dropping, i know multiple pros (some personally) who ride 18s without setting them over 14 din.
i think we also have to consider the amount of bindings the spring 'pops out' due to riding at 8. 1 in every 100? 1 in every 1000, 1 in every 10,000?
just food for thought
oh ya tom that shop finally got me some parts and pieces from k2 and got me hooked up. stoked to have a stiff boot again.
shin-bangIn ops case though, he would be riding at 10, i believe that would be sufficient tension to hold the spring in. it makes sense why it would pop out if youre barely running an 8. i agree with what you said but why not get a metal toe piece for 20 extra bucks
that being said i have a friend who rocks white 18s at an 8-9. lighter weight dude with the cast system. no issues.
without name dropping, i know multiple pros (some personally) who ride 18s without setting them over 14 din.
i think we also have to consider the amount of bindings the spring 'pops out' due to riding at 8. 1 in every 100? 1 in every 1000, 1 in every 10,000?
just food for thought
oh ya tom that shop finally got me some parts and pieces from k2 and got me hooked up. stoked to have a stiff boot again.
It has happened more times then you would imagine actually. But yeah for $20 the 18 is a good deal. But one thing the 14 does have going is the toe adjustment. I currently can’t use my pivot 18’s as my new boot are grip walk and look don’t yet have the afd, so the 14 may be a better choice for a lot of people if they are also getting new boots. I am yet to see one of the 12 or 14 toes break so they seem pretty good.
And tahts good good you got boots finally.
**This post was edited on Apr 9th 2019 at 2:42:19pm
**This post was edited on Apr 9th 2019 at 2:42:58pm
Got some Orange FKS 180's back in like 2016. I ride like 70 days a season and probably like 50 of those on my FKS's. 4 years of park skiing and it was on the last day of skiing at my home resort that the plastic cracked, which I will replace when I remount them on the next skis. I've heard about a drop in quality, specifically the ring that runs around the heel plate to let the heel rotate on the newer pivots, and would guess that Look uses the same materials between the 14 and 18 on the lower assembly. Also keep in mind that the little half moons that keep your brakes from pointing straight down are prone to breaking, and have been that way for as long as I remember.
I had a pair of FKS 140's back in the day that are mounted on a pair of skis that my dad normally uses, but I got a good deal on my 180's and would have moved up anyway.
I ride 180's at like 11 or 12 and sometimes put them at like 13 if I'm tryina get sendy and have had no issues.
finderGot some Orange FKS 180's back in like 2016. I ride like 70 days a season and probably like 50 of those on my FKS's. 4 years of park skiing and it was on the last day of skiing at my home resort that the plastic cracked, which I will replace when I remount them on the next skis. I've heard about a drop in quality, specifically the ring that runs around the heel plate to let the heel rotate on the newer pivots, and would guess that Look uses the same materials between the 14 and 18 on the lower assembly. Also keep in mind that the little half moons that keep your brakes from pointing straight down are prone to breaking, and have been that way for as long as I remember.
I had a pair of FKS 140's back in the day that are mounted on a pair of skis that my dad normally uses, but I got a good deal on my 180's and would have moved up anyway.
I ride 180's at like 11 or 12 and sometimes put them at like 13 if I'm tryina get sendy and have had no issues.
Not even trying to be a smart ass, but what's your point?
TubeBroNot even trying to be a smart ass, but what's your point?
Reading that now I guess what I said wasn't very coherent. Sometimes bindings explode and it's been a mixed bag as far as recent pivot reliability goes. I guess $20 is worth it.
This questions still stands, looking to score some forza 1.0 as they just went on sale here $200 vs $250 for 14 vs 18. Of course the new 15 forza 2.0 would be ideal... but yeah looking at the 1.0 to color match, also its half the price. could 15 springs in 18's be a thing? is that even possible, if so, costly?
Cannot justify the DIN's for sure, I usually ride jester 16 set at 10, with griffon's I for some reason have to go higher, guessing its the end of range, but no more than +1 or +2 for toe.
6'2-6'3 and 210-230lbs.....
I want that alu toe, I don't wannbe be bolted to skis, I've been know to yardsale.
anders_aThis questions still stands, looking to score some forza 1.0 as they just went on sale here $200 vs $250 for 14 vs 18. Of course the new 15 forza 2.0 would be ideal... but yeah looking at the 1.0 to color match, also its half the price. could 15 springs in 18's be a thing? is that even possible, if so, costly?
Cannot justify the DIN's for sure, I usually ride jester 16 set at 10, with griffon's I for some reason have to go higher, guessing its the end of range, but no more than +1 or +2 for toe.
6'2-6'3 and 210-230lbs.....
I want that alu toe, I don't wannbe be bolted to skis, I've been know to yardsale.
I say get the 14s. I trust that Tom pietrowski guy if he says that you don't want to be low on the din range on pivots, he's legit
I agree it blows you don't get the metal toe on those, like you said the 15s would be ideal but ain't gonna be on sale any time soon. But the 14 toe is fine, I've broken plenty of bindings but not those fwiw
I didn’t read most of this thread so forgive me if I reiterate all the valid points.
you don’t need or want 18s.
1-riding too close to the minimum din can result in failure and serious injury.
2-re read 1 and let that sink in, don’t hurt yourself , it could be permanent and end your ski days
3- there’s a pivot 15, best of both worlds.
For comparison I’m 6’1 200 to 220 i ride between 9 and 11, on the 14s stiff and soft skis I have no pre release issues, i butter, drop cliffs and send myself to the moon, the few rails I’ve banged I banged as aggressively as thot at a bbc party
also , both my attaks and sth2 are set and left at 13. I like the attaks more but the pivots are waaay more reliable, I’ve had pre release issues on butters , spins and in pow with other bindings unless they are cranked, even with proper fwd pressure.
SavageBiffI didn’t read most of this thread so forgive me if I reiterate all the valid points.
you don’t need or want 18s.
1-riding too close to the minimum din can result in failure and serious injury.
2-re read 1 and let that sink in, don’t hurt yourself , it could be permanent and end your ski days
3- there’s a pivot 15, best of both worlds.
For comparison I’m 6’1 200 to 220 i ride between 9 and 11, on the 14s stiff and soft skis I have no pre release issues, i butter, drop cliffs and send myself to the moon, the few rails I’ve banged I banged as aggressively as thot at a bbc party
also , both my attaks and sth2 are set and left at 13. I like the attaks more but the pivots are waaay more reliable, I’ve had pre release issues on butters , spins and in pow with other bindings unless they are cranked, even with proper fwd pressure.
Bro that's kinda giving off beta vibes rn
Get 18s cause send
CalumSKIBro that's kinda giving off beta vibes rn
Get 18s cause send
Nothing beta bout it, My send is alpha, and my send will always be alpha whether it’s on pivot 14s, 18s or lil pink nx7jrs, I don’t need 18s to get noticed I bring the holy fuck to your pupils with ultra fluid rollerblade style landings, my bsl, height and weight only require a 9.5, I ride 11-14 and when those skis come off you bet I’m borderline tearing something which caused me to learn , “ never, ever ski slow “ that’s when legs twist and shit hurts cause the bindings don’t release. Idc if it seems bitch vibes I’ll be ripping when I’m 60 and if my statement saves one uneducated kid from blowing his knees then good
SavageBiffNothing beta bout it, My send is alpha, and my send will always be alpha whether it’s on pivot 14s, 18s or lil pink nx7jrs, I don’t need 18s to get noticed I bring the holy fuck to your pupils with ultra fluid rollerblade style landings, my bsl, height and weight only require a 9.5, I ride 11-14 and when those skis come off you bet I’m borderline tearing something which caused me to learn , “ never, ever ski slow “ that’s when legs twist and shit hurts cause the bindings don’t release. Idc if it seems bitch vibes I’ll be ripping when I’m 60 and if my statement saves one uneducated kid from blowing his knees then good
Ik m2
whats amazing is there are “some” people who really do need the higher din and they are shorter and weigh less than me
I really would like to know what guys like Henrik and especially tjader are setting dins at, jespers landing are banging and his rails look hard struck, smooth and fluid but I mean damn I imagine he gotta be riding pretty high no pun
imho smooth style, and high level of skill, would let you turn DINs down, for must stuff, of course trying to do some 1000000 rotation shit might make it go up.
SavageBiffIk m2
whats amazing is there are “some” people who really do need the higher din and they are shorter and weigh less than me
I really would like to know what guys like Henrik and especially tjader are setting dins at, jespers landing are banging and his rails look hard struck, smooth and fluid but I mean damn I imagine he gotta be riding pretty high no pun
Yeah very true
Even I run and 8.5 din and I'm like 115 pounds
CalumSKIYeah very true
Even I run and 8.5 din and I'm like 115 pounds
Sounds like you haul ass hombre
ever lose a ski tail bonking a tree? I did once, not cool, another time after I started cranking the dins I did the same but didn’t lose a ski I spun and ate shit it was f in awesome
SavageBiffSounds like you haul ass hombre
ever lose a ski tail bonking a tree? I did once, not cool, another time after I started cranking the dins I did the same but didn’t lose a ski I spun and ate shit it was f in awesome
Yeah I've gone a little too fast in the trees and smacked my tails and gotten tossed, but it's not too bad
also , both my attaks and sth2 are set and left at 13. I like the attaks more but the pivots are waaay more reliable, I’ve had pre release issues on butters , spins and in pow with other bindings unless they are cranked, even with proper fwd pressure.[/quote]
If Attacks, Griffons/Jestors or Salomons are releasing with movements like nose butters etc with DIN and forward pressure set correctly, the toe height is causing the pre-releases. I’d guess maybe 20% of those bindings are set correctly when it comes to toe height.
Put a Business card or spacer between the AFD and bottom of the boot when clicked into the binding. Put pressure on the top of the boot to get the boot toe to “wheelie” and THEN adjust the toe height so the business card resists when you try to pull it out from under the toe. Most places forget this “wheelie first” and THEN adjust toe height process.
This step eliminates any toe play which can cause pre-releases and the binding will feel WAY more solid and there will be no wasted movement anymore when set up correctly.
