Advice on shooting skiing

Biggest difference between filming skiing and anything else is that everything is white, the snow ya know. This tests the limits of your camera, which is why many people like to film with a "flatter" profile to preserve highlights and shadows. The key is to never blow out your whites, as soon as your shot is over exposed, it's nearly impossible to make it look normal because everything is white. Hope that helps.

eheathBiggest difference between filming skiing and anything else is that everything is white, the snow ya know. This tests the limits of your camera, which is why many people like to film with a "flatter" profile to preserve highlights and shadows. The key is to never blow out your whites, as soon as your shot is over exposed, it's nearly impossible to make it look normal because everything is white. Hope that helps.

I quickly noticed this. I think the biggest struggle I dealt with last weekend was not being able to see my LCD monitor. I have a GH4. While it is a great little camera I'm not sure if it is great for shooting skiing. There is something to be said for more traditional camera systems that aren't as small and have servo lenses.

newkid900I quickly noticed this. I think the biggest struggle I dealt with last weekend was not being able to see my LCD monitor. I have a GH4. While it is a great little camera I'm not sure if it is great for shooting skiing. There is something to be said for more traditional camera systems that aren't as small and have servo lenses.

I mean, you're outside, its going to be hard to see any screen. I used to love having a viewfinder, then i got a fs100 which has this shit plastic viewfinder. I've been looking at an lcd for awhile now, I think its just fine, make sure your brightness is all the way up, the GH4 is a great camera for skiing.

Good to know. I was trying to adjust this on the chairlift, but couldn't figure it out. My next camera is going to be a GH5. Any suggestions on finding a handle for it? Also, what f-stop are you generally at?

newkid900Good to know. I was trying to adjust this on the chairlift, but couldn't figure it out. My next camera is going to be a GH5. Any suggestions on finding a handle for it? Also, what f-stop are you generally at?

I couldn't tell you exactly where in the menu it is located, but you'll find it. Should have a bright(er) mode.

GH5 is a great camera, I love it, I don't have any recommendations for a handle but there are tons of cheap options. As for fstop, it all depends but mostly f8-16. With no ND filter, I have to use 16 or higher, but with an 1.2ND i set my fstop around 8-11.

eheathI couldn't tell you exactly where in the menu it is located, but you'll find it. Should have a bright(er) mode.

GH5 is a great camera, I love it, I don't have any recommendations for a handle but there are tons of cheap options. As for fstop, it all depends but mostly f8-16. With no ND filter, I have to use 16 or higher, but with an 1.2ND i set my fstop around 8-11.

Makes total sense. I know with skiing shots you want to have a deeper depth of field. Especially since your subject is moving. I know this same concept could be applied to stills as well.

newkid900Makes total sense. I know with skiing shots you want to have a deeper depth of field. Especially since your subject is moving. I know this same concept could be applied to stills as well.

Just all depends, idk if I'd shoot like f4 or 2.8 if I could, but I only have one lens (20mm with two .9 nds) where I can actually shoot something at f2.8.

eheathJust all depends, idk if I'd shoot like f4 or 2.8 if I could, but I only have one lens (20mm with two .9 nds) where I can actually shoot something at f2.8.

That I can actually can shoot at 2.8 during the day**

eheathThat I can actually can shoot at 2.8 during the day**

Are you shooting mostly motion or stills?

newkid900Are you shooting mostly motion or stills?

I only shoot video, for stills you have more flexibility with your shutter speed but for me I usually am at 1/125 or 1/160 for my shutter speed.

Here is a couple of tips I found for shooting stills:

0. DONT SNAKE ANYONE!!! Remember the terrain park is for riders first and photographers second so always look uphill to be sure your not in the way. For rails, avoid the 'fatal funnel'. You can be close to the rail if your near the entrance but as you move down the rail there is more chance a rider will have to bail and can hit you if they catch an edge.

1. Shoot RAW, underexpose by a little then use Lightroom to bring up the whites so the snow just peaks out but still has some detail.

2. I like to keep the sun at my back which helps the riders pop out a little.

3. For rails, keep in mind the dominant foot your subject has and what foot they have in front when the slide rails or you will just get a bunch of back shots. Pre-focusing on a rail is a good way to avoid focus tracking.

4. YakTrax work really well for hiking up groomers to the park if you dont have a pass. Some resorts are much cooler about this than others. Brighton especially is lax but I have hiked Park City and usually if people see you with a DSLR they assume your supposed to be there.

5. On really bright days, make sure to stop down your camera to keep the shutter speed from getting too high or you will get high shutter speed noise even at ISO 100 and its hard to get rid of. An ND filter can help you here.

6. Keep in mind the background and composition rules. There is a lot of equipment at resorts and its easy to focus only on the riders and end up with shots with an ugly lift pole or wire cutting into your shot.

7. Bring an extra SD Card. You are going to probably be running in rapid shutter mode and will burn through a lot more frames that you will realize. Especially airs where you are going to spray a set the pick out the best. Having a good RAW buffer in important here too.

8. Bring extra batteries as the cold sucks down the charge.

9. Be really careful taking your lenses out in the cold. Always put cold equipment in a bag and let it warm up slowly. If you throw your cold camera in your car and crank the heat you can fog the inside of your lenses.

10. Get some gloves that are a good balance between warmth and dexterity and test them out before you get on the slope.

buy a quality camera strap or a way to secure the camera to you so you can use both hands if need be. It makes me feel way more comfortable getting on and being on lifts with a camera. I use a blackrapid but thats because I mostly shoot stills.

B_Kbuy a quality camera strap or a way to secure the camera to you so you can use both hands if need be. It makes me feel way more comfortable getting on and being on lifts with a camera. I use a blackrapid but thats because I mostly shoot stills.

I second this. I have the Movo Photo vest and really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MB700-Universal-Carrying-Holster/dp/B00RF0OF2C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2JMP314LKW68Y&keywords=dslr+chest+harness&qid=1553726453&s=gateway&sprefix=DSLR+chest+%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I shoot with a Gh5, and i personally dont like to push my aperture above f8 unless i have to. I use a variable nd to avoid constant changing of filters to adjust to different light situations. as far as shutter speed, i just refer to the 180 degree rule. you pretty much wanna set your camera up so you have to do as little fidgeting as possible. custom settings/presets are clutch. for example, i have various custom presets i programmed into the camera for various frame rates/light situations. makes everything easier. and like others have said, try to underexpose your shots so you dont blow out your whites.

GANDALFI shoot with a Gh5, and i personally dont like to push my aperture above f8 unless i have to. I use a variable nd to avoid constant changing of filters to adjust to different light situations. as far as shutter speed, i just refer to the 180 degree rule. you pretty much wanna set your camera up so you have to do as little fidgeting as possible. custom settings/presets are clutch. for example, i have various custom presets i programmed into the camera for various frame rates/light situations. makes everything easier. and like others have said, try to underexpose your shots so you dont blow out your whites.

You experienced shooters probably know this but in Lightroom if you hold the "ALT" key when moving the Whites/Blacks slider it will show you an overlay so you know when you are clipping. This trick really changed the way I edit photos.

SuspiciousFishYou experienced shooters probably know this but in Lightroom if you hold the "ALT" key when moving the Whites/Blacks slider it will show you an overlay so you know when you are clipping. This trick really changed the way I edit photos.

I think it depends on the circumstances. For video it is a lot harder to pull focus. The auto focus when shooting stills is a lot easier to manage.