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FaunaSkisYour skis definitely aren't toast and could easily last longer than the end of the season, they just need some major TLC.
If you're confident to do it yourself/intent on not spending money, it would be worth putting a little epoxy in the bottom of the gouges that have gone through the fibreglass, and filling up to height the end of the gouge next to edge with epoxy/metal grip (p-tex doesnt grip steel edge) and then p-tex over the gouges. This means the core wont be exposed to moisture if the p-tex plucks out. If you're doing it yourself, dripping in p-tex candle then scraping, this is more likely.
Honestly from the looks of the rest of the bases in the pics, it seems to me you could do with a full service and repair by a shop, and you might get through early season next winter on them aswell.
TubeBroPtex for sure will come out. Take it to a shop. Probably looking at $60-$80.
QuaffHoly shit man where do you get screwed over for $80 base welds? Every shop I have been to is $15-20
QuaffHoly shit man where do you get screwed over for $80 base welds? Every shop I have been to is $15-20
-SnowSnoli-If the shop aren’t hacks and do custom basewelds instead of shitty stamps and do a proper job of cutting it out that shit takes time. But looks and lasts better.
QuaffYeah chalet sports in Bozeman is a bunch of "hacks" dude. They do a better job than any $80 service.
Blake.PDefinitely take something like that to a shop, since they will have the resources to get that fixed properly. You will need to add a base/metal weld material to the core (epoxy will also work if you score it afterwards), you need a stronger material to fill it to protect the core. These materials dont hold wax, so you would finish with ptex over it. The reason that you want to take it to a shop is that the ptex drip sticks you can buy for cheap are mostly paraffin wax, so they aren't as durable (but easier to use for diy fixes). If a shop does a ptex job, they use a material closer to the original base material, which bonds better, accepts wax better, and is more durable. It just has to be pushed through a ptex gun, to heat it to the higher temp it needs to melt and bond properly.
The shop that I used to work at would charge $60 for a repair like that, which includes all base fixes, and the tune/wax afterwards. I know its tempting to go the route of the cheap fix, but it never lasts long and cracks out, exposing the core to water and making the damage worse in the long run. I would just take it to a shop if I were you.