Whats the best binding for my boot?

Dude, it sounds like it's time for new boots or for someone to put a plate on if possible to return it to norm.

Getting a new binding won't fix the issue, especially if it's worn down unevenly.

And I'm not a shop guy but I don't even know if your setup would pass a release test by a shop. They may not be willing to even touch it.

I had to have them release tested for work (park coach) about a month ago and they passed. They always release on me when i catch tips or do anything else that can twist my knee, but what annoys me is if I land on a rail sometimes the bindings will release, like the other day I was doing Sw lip 2 onto a downbar and as soon as I hit the rail my front ski popped off, wasn't even a hard landing nor was I trying to pretzel.

No way I'm getting new boots, after some recent modification they fit me perfectly and I love the SCS bootboard in them. (Also salomon doesn't make the ghost in 100 anymore, only 80. Gonna speak with the rep though and ask if they're using the same plastic in the 2 boots, only difference might just be the lack of a factory rivet on the 80)

I realized in my OP I forgot to mention that the ghost doesn't have interchangeable soles like other boots. But you did mention something about plates, I'll inquire about that at my local shop.

**This post was edited on Feb 12th 2019 at 12:07:44pm

SteezMcGeeI had to have them release tested for work (park coach) about a month ago and they passed. They always release on me when i catch tips or do anything else that can twist my knee, but what annoys me is if I land on a rail sometimes the bindings will release, like the other day I was doing Sw lip 2 onto a downbar and as soon as I hit the rail my front ski popped off, wasn't even a hard landing nor was I trying to pretzel.

No way I'm getting new boots, after some recent modification they fit me perfectly and I love the SCS bootboard in them. (Also salomon doesn't make the ghost in 100 anymore, only 80. Gonna speak with the rep though and ask if they're using the same plastic in the 2 boots, only difference might just be the lack of a factory rivet on the 80)

I realized in my OP I forgot to mention that the ghost doesn't have interchangeable soles like other boots. But you did mention something about plates, I'll inquire about that at my local shop.

**This post was edited on Feb 12th 2019 at 12:07:44pm

I'd look around online for some 100s since you can find them occasionally if you love them that much.

The plates are what racers tend to use- https://www.peakskishop.com/Boot-Lifts-Installed-Parts-and-labor_p_4536.html

I'm not sure if they can do that given the state of your soles but it's worth inquiring. If Onenerdykid pops in here he should have an idea if it's possible.

If that doesn't work, I don't really know of any binding AFD that can be made tighter than standard DIN thickness. Most with adjustable AFDs can go lower for more room but I don't know of any that can be made to go higher. FWIW, bindings with adjustable AFDs include Tyrolia Attack AT version (I think 14 DIN) or Salomon/Atomic Warden. I believe STH 16's (not sure if both 1s and 2s) can be raised and lowered as well but that's the toe piece rather than the AFD itself.

.MASSHOLE.I'd look around online for some 100s since you can find them occasionally if you love them that much.

The plates are what racers tend to use- https://www.peakskishop.com/Boot-Lifts-Installed-Parts-and-labor_p_4536.html

I'm not sure if they can do that given the state of your soles but it's worth inquiring. If Onenerdykid pops in here he should have an idea if it's possible.

If that doesn't work, I don't really know of any binding AFD that can be made tighter than standard DIN thickness. Most with adjustable AFDs can go lower for more room but I don't know of any that can be made to go higher. FWIW, bindings with adjustable AFDs include Tyrolia Attack AT version (I think 14 DIN) or Salomon/Atomic Warden. I believe STH 16's (not sure if both 1s and 2s) can be raised and lowered as well but that's the toe piece rather than the AFD itself.

I'm pretty sure that on the STH's youre actually adjusting the toepiece height not the AFD, and I've heard good things about that binding, it's one I've been considering.

The soles of my boots are worn down but still quite even, so maybe some time on the belt sander and then installing a plate will solve my woes. Still gonna need new bindings though regardless of the boot situation. I've beat the shit outta my pivots.

Thanks for the help man! I'm gonna look into the plating option for sure.

SteezMcGeeI'm pretty sure that on the STH's youre actually adjusting the toepiece height not the AFD, and I've heard good things about that binding, it's one I've been considering.

The soles of my boots are worn down but still quite even, so maybe some time on the belt sander and then installing a plate will solve my woes. Still gonna need new bindings though regardless of the boot situation. I've beat the shit outta my pivots.

Thanks for the help man! I'm gonna look into the plating option for sure.

Yeah I said that about the STH ;)

I just don't know of any that make it smaller than DIN norm. Someone on here must have a pair they can test (or OneNerdyKid can tell us about the Warden).

I'd go the plate route. They may refer to them as lugs FWIW as well. I'd make sure a boot guy does that sanding work, it's pretty easy to fuck it up from what I've heard.

Part of doing a binding release test is also a boot test. If your boot is no longer within the Alpine Norm (or Touring norm, etc.) due to wear, for example, then the shop assumes ALL of the legal risk in mounting your set up. Not a single binding manufacturer on the planet will stand behind this set up.

I know your boots fit you well, but you are literally playing with the lifespan of your own knees here. Take your boots to race shop and see if they can get your boots back to the dimensions of the Alpine Norm. This means planing the sole flat (0°), adding a 3-5mm lifter plate, and routering the tops of the toe and heel lugs. It will cost you less than buying a new binding, and it will be the only way to ensure the boot and binding work properly together. Plus, as you wear out the lifters, you can just get new ones put back on like any other modern boot with grip pads.

onenerdykidI know your boots fit you well, but you are literally playing with the lifespan of your own knees here. Take your boots to race shop and see if they can get your boots back to the dimensions of the Alpine Norm. This means planing the sole flat (0°), adding a 3-5mm lifter plate, and routering the tops of the toe and heel lugs. It will cost you less than buying a new binding, and it will be the only way to ensure the boot and binding work properly together. Plus, as you wear out the lifters, you can just get new ones put back on like any other modern boot with grip pads.

Definitely gonna go this route. I'll pop by a shop tonight and see what they can do.

SteezMcGeeDefinitely gonna go this route. I'll pop by a shop tonight and see what they can do.

FYI - you will probably have to find a shop that specializes in racing boots. The tools required to plane soles and router toes/heels is unfortunately expensive and not common.

onenerdykidFYI - you will probably have to find a shop that specializes in racing boots. The tools required to plane soles and router toes/heels is unfortunately expensive and not common.

Mcsporties up here in sun peaks should be able to do it, they take care of all the local racers and have done an amazing job fitting me and working on my boots in the past. Once again thanks all for the help.