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Binding screw retention/glue/torque question

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shin-bang
Posts: 4100 - Karma: 6,997
So, bottom line is. local shop mounted a pair of sth2s for me. heel track by the brakes was borderline sticking up too much. so i popped the heel off, and tightened the top 2 screws a little bit to makes sure they were all the way down. In doing this, im worried i broke the seal of the glue (i did hear a little POP). i turned each screw about an eighth / one quarter turn. they both are snug and hopefully didnt strip them out. My question is... do i need to back them all the way out and re put glue in there to be 100% sure no water will get in?? or do i just leave them and not worry about it because i just barely turned each screw.

here are pics of the heel track, as far as i know, this is normal to an extent, but was concerned theyre sticking up too much. i compared with my other pair of mounted sths and they dont stand up quite this high.

mainly worried about having to back out screws and re screw.

thanks to any help
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Jan 27 2019 6:16PM
1 0
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Non_State_Actor
Posts: 4874 - Karma: 17,330
I'd pull them off and reglue and torque to spec, but I tend to be a perfectionist on this kind of stuff.
Jan 27 2019 6:25PM
2 0
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razors-chaz
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 1,250
You may have damaged the seal of the glue by tightening them up but backing them out and re-gluing could be worse for the strength of your mount.
The screws are self tapping and so if you're not careful when you're putting the screw back in to the hole full of glue you could end up double threading the hole meaning you've screwed up the wood/laminate that grips the screw.
Your best bet, if you're adamant you want to keep messing with the mount, would be to (have a shop) back the screw out and epoxy it back in, as the epoxy will grip the screw and it's not important whats happened to the core material as the epoxy will fill any double tapping.
Honestly I would have just left the original small gap, there's no certainty you're going to eliminate it on a remount.
Jan 28 2019 4:39AM
1 0
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shin-bang
Posts: 4100 - Karma: 6,997
razors-chazYou may have damaged the seal of the glue by tightening them up but backing them out and re-gluing could be worse for the strength of your mount.
The screws are self tapping and so if you're not careful when you're putting the screw back in to the hole full of glue you could end up double threading the hole meaning you've screwed up the wood/laminate that grips the screw.
Your best bet, if you're adamant you want to keep messing with the mount, would be to (have a shop) back the screw out and epoxy it back in, as the epoxy will grip the screw and it's not important whats happened to the core material as the epoxy will fill any double tapping.
Honestly I would have just left the original small gap, there's no certainty you're going to eliminate it on a remount.


Well, do you think I should just leave them alone and ride them?

My shop can’t even set forward pressure... so that’s why I was resorting to just do it myself. They just hire a bunch of kids and turn them loose.

My original intention was to go buy a posidrive #3, loctite marine epoxy, and carefully, veryyyyy carefully... back the screws out that I messed with, put just enough epoxy in the hole (but not so much it overflows a ton when the screw goes in).

Then CAREFULLY tighten the two screws till
They stop turning (snug)... then go 1/8th turn being more being ever so careful not strip the holes out. I’ve even considered buying a torque wrench but have heard the cheap ones are not even that accurate.

Any foreseeable problems with my plan?


These are new on3ps and want them to last forever.. that’s why I’m finicking so much over this.
Jan 28 2019 11:14AM
0 0
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Non_State_Actor
Posts: 4874 - Karma: 17,330
I got one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-Torque-Products-TorqControl-TLA28NM-Screwdriver-2-8-Nm-1-4-Inch-Hex-Bit-6/263992015430?epid=783929565&hash=item3d77267a46:g:JYsAAOSwe~BbxTqx

But it was about $45. I love it.

I think you'd be surprised at how low a torque spec you can reach with a traditional screwdriver. Snug plus one-eighth of a turn probably is not spec. But as I said I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to these kind of things.
Jan 28 2019 12:17PM
1 0
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shin-bang
Posts: 4100 - Karma: 6,997
Update

So I got myself a torque wrench, epoxy and posidriv. I took off the heel piece to find volcanoes... so if your Sth heel tracks aren’t very close to flush you may have the same problem.

Took a chisel and did what I could to flatten them.

Made up marine epoxy, used old syringe to apply it neatly. Gently screwed screws back in to find them both spinning at about 3nm. I decided to just let the epoxy dry and that should help the retention. I may never get those screws out of the ski but so be it. As long as I stay clipped in. If something happens... a remount is always an option.
Jan 29 2019 12:48AM
0 0
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razors-chaz
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 1,250
shin-bangWell, do you think I should just leave them alone and ride them?

My shop can’t even set forward pressure... so that’s why I was resorting to just do it myself. They just hire a bunch of kids and turn them loose.

My original intention was to go buy a posidrive #3, loctite marine epoxy, and carefully, veryyyyy carefully... back the screws out that I messed with, put just enough epoxy in the hole (but not so much it overflows a ton when the screw goes in).

Then CAREFULLY tighten the two screws till
They stop turning (snug)... then go 1/8th turn being more being ever so careful not strip the holes out. I’ve even considered buying a torque wrench but have heard the cheap ones are not even that accurate.

Any foreseeable problems with my plan?


These are new on3ps and want them to last forever.. that’s why I’m finicking so much over this.


shin-bangUpdate

So I got myself a torque wrench, epoxy and posidriv. I took off the heel piece to find volcanoes... so if your Sth heel tracks aren’t very close to flush you may have the same problem.

Took a chisel and did what I could to flatten them.

Made up marine epoxy, used old syringe to apply it neatly. Gently screwed screws back in to find them both spinning at about 3nm. I decided to just let the epoxy dry and that should help the retention. I may never get those screws out of the ski but so be it. As long as I stay clipped in. If something happens... a remount is always an option.


Sorry for not getting back to you before now. I would have gone for what you did when you had no confidence in your local shop.
Epoxying the screws in is a good way to get a strong remount. If it pulls out it will cause more damage than if it were a glue mount but if water got into the core, a pull out could have happened with an equal if not worse amount of damage through water anyway.

As you say a remount is always an option, and with most bindings (depending on how they were mounted) the heel track will allow for only a heel remount and keep the position on the ski (the STH has 28mm adjustment in the heel, more than enough leeway for a remount).
Jan 29 2019 6:42AM
0 0
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