***** URGENT: Need help detuning my Wets *****

so,what I've done is just get a normal file and put it so the file is at a 45 degree angle compared to the base and file your edges like that. A little more angle than this -/. You should see little metal flakes come off and a gummy stone definitely helps but it is not mandatory. Don't think top hard about it, you're just make sharp metal dull. When you detune it don't go to crazy, then just bring your file to the mountain and detune to the feel you want. Don't really worry about getting them to round as there is almost no edge at all for ON3P's park detune underfoot and I have not had an issue at all. Worst case scenario, watch a YouTube video I know those exist.

Melbourne.so,what I've done is just get a normal file and put it so the file is at a 45 degree angle compared to the base and file your edges like that. A little more angle than this -/. You should see little metal flakes come off and a gummy stone definitely helps but it is not mandatory. Don't think top hard about it, you're just make sharp metal dull. When you detune it don't go to crazy, then just bring your file to the mountain and detune to the feel you want. Don't really worry about getting them to round as there is almost no edge at all for ON3P's park detune underfoot and I have not had an issue at all. Worst case scenario, watch a YouTube video I know those exist.

Wait I'm confused, why would I not worry about getting them too round if the ON3Ps have no edges? Wouldn't my goal be to get them as round as possible in that case? Also from where to where do I do the detuning? Under the foot and bindings or just under the foot?

getting them round while taking off as little edge material is the goal, this allows you to atleast resharpen the edges a little if you need

Find boot center.

Take file.

From +/- 20-25cm from boot center, making filing passes at 30, 45, and 60 degrees. This will create a nice round over. The most important pass is the 30 degree (lowest towards the base of the ski) as you want to get as much edge off of the rail contact as possible.

Make multiple passes moving 2-4" per pass.

Only move the file in one direction. Don't go back and forth in a sawing motion.

Once you are done, making blending passes where you go from sub 30 to over 60 to smooth out the detune.

These passes can be a bit longer and run them all down the edge under everything is smooth and rounded.

Finish touch with Gummi. If all you are doing is Gumming a ski before hitting rails, it's like fighting a bear with a knife. Maybe you get lucky, or are just really good, but you are likely to lose.

Go Ski.

Monitor edge, fix + seal cracks as they form, re-detune as needed, and park skis last a long time.

Even doing all the above, the edge will eventually fail because it's a tiny piece of metal being heated, cooled, and slammed into stronger metal over and over and over with a lot of force. But the above will at least keep the skis alive longer than doing nothing, which is what most people seem to do.

The biggest thing that kills park skis is the freeze (expand) + thaw cycle of water getting in your ski. Cracks will happen and can be managed, but water cannot.

Hope that helps.

teamSESHWait I'm confused, why would I not worry about getting them too round if the ON3Ps have no edges? Wouldn't my goal be to get them as round as possible in that case? Also from where to where do I do the detuning? Under the foot and bindings or just under the foot?

All I meant to say was round edges aren’t going to be a big issue. And you just detune where you slide a rail basically just back of heel piece to front of toe piece.

Melbourne.All I meant to say was round edges aren’t going to be a big issue. And you just detune where you slide a rail basically just back of heel piece to front of toe piece.

K cool, thanks. Anything else other than detuning that I should do before taking them to rail? I still need to wax them but other than wax and a detune?

I personally detune all-mountain/park skis underfoot at 2 degrees and they never catch on rails but are still semi-sharp. and then i blend it into 1 degree for the rest of the ski.