Opinions on riding at the low end of DIN setting?

ill give you 120 for those attack 18s, up to you haha

^ while that offer above still stands, here's my two cents. If you don't need an 18 din binding, there really isnt a reason to get one right? Its not the din setting thats going to be overkill on the bindings, its going to be the construction. the Attack 18s have a metal construction and weight alot more than say the attack 13s that are mostly plastic and alot lighter. I have ridden the 13s, 16s, and 18s and while the 18s feel solid, the 16s are my sweet spot between din my din setting (13-14) and durability. for you, seeing from your post so the attack 13s would probably suit you better at a 10-11 din. Id be down to give you some cashola if you wanted for the 18s tho.

db21I have an opportunity to buy some Attack 18 bindings (8 - 18 DIN) brand new for under $100, and I'm curious about people's opinions on riding a binding with this range at a 10-11 DIN. Any reason riding at the low end is a bad idea? Historically I have had a lot of luck riding right in the middle of the range on a 14 DIN binding, but this is a wicked deal on a bomber binding. Not looking for input on DIN settings or if this is overkill on a binding, I know it is, but is there any reason I shouldn't be riding that low on the DIN settings?

**This thread was edited on Nov 16th 2017 at 12:27:39pm

Per ski websites, bindings should avoid being dialed at the extremes as they won't perform as well compared to the middle blah blah blah springs blah blah blah. Not sure how credible that is, but just what I could find. Is an 10-11 considered too low on these? Not sure

IsitWinterYet17Per ski websites, bindings should avoid being dialed at the extremes as they won't perform as well compared to the middle blah blah blah springs blah blah blah. Not sure how credible that is, but just what I could find. Is an 10-11 considered too low on these? Not sure

10 or 11 wouldnt be too low. Keeping the springs in good condition is an important factor so not dialing them to the extremes is a good thing. I usually try and keep it from +2 of the minimum to -2 on the maximum. That being said, if you have a 12 din binding and set it to a 12 din, the release wont be affected, its still a true 12 so you can do whatever.

I ride pivot 18s at din 9 (cue the hate) but I like the full metal toe piece for durability and speed considering I broke my plastic jesters and only weigh 150. I never have any problems with unwanted releases and they always seem to release at times when its necessary so fuck it and buy those for a sweet deal

There is no issue with riding the binding anywhere within the range. Staying in the middle of the DIN range is a myth. As long as you fit in the range, going to a higher DIN binding generally means you are just getting a higher quality binding with no sacrifices.

chickenThere is no issue with riding the binding anywhere within the range. Staying in the middle of the DIN range is a myth. As long as you fit in the range, going to a higher DIN binding generally means you are just getting a higher quality binding with no sacrifices.

This is generally true, especially at the low end of the range. The only exception is when your specific set up gets tested and the torque values don't line up/correspond with the available settings.

Sweet, thanks everyone for the input! Sorry to you Zephyr, but I decided to go for them. While I might not need such a burly binding, it could be a long time before I see a deal this good again.