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Help me figure out a binding solution

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OregonDead
Posts: 6890 - Karma: 24,546
So I want to do a few tours but I think I'm mostly going to ski in-bounds. I like to think I'm pretty easy going. I ski a 7 DIN and I stick to smaller jumps and drops. I had some F10s last season. The touring with the F10s worked but was not ideal because the climbing post thing always wanted to slip down to a different setting and I didn't mind how they skied in the resort except when they broke. Base plate thingy cracked right in half while I was skiing Palmer. . So now it is time for some new bindings.
My ideas include getting two sets of bindings and those binding freedom things (maybe some STHs and some sort of tech binding), getting just some sort of tech binding like the kingpin to use all the time, or getting another frame binding.
What do you think AT skiers of NS?
Oct 12 2017 7:47PM
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OregonDead
Posts: 6890 - Karma: 24,546
The referenced post has been removed.


Probably 85% resort. Thinking about the binding freedom idea because then I could sort of preserve the more fragile touring bindings for when I actually tour and then maybe use the set up on more skis because I seem to buy more skis.
Oct 12 2017 7:59PM
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patagonialuke
Posts: 1626 - Karma: 8,673
If you're willing to shell out the $, I'd say get both alpine and tech bindings and drill inserts for both. That way you can just ski alpine bindings 85% of the time and then touring won't suck either when you do that.

But if you want to spend less money, a Guardian or Adrenalin would probably serve you just fine. Or the cast system.
Oct 12 2017 10:18PM
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OregonDead
Posts: 6890 - Karma: 24,546
patagonialukeIf you're willing to shell out the $, I'd say get both alpine and tech bindings and drill inserts for both. That way you can just ski alpine bindings 85% of the time and then touring won't suck either when you do that.

But if you want to spend less money, a Guardian or Adrenalin would probably serve you just fine. Or the cast system.

Cast looks sweet but I think P18s is the only option and I am used to a 7 DIN.

If I did inserts I think I'd definitely want to set up a couple pairs like that to be able to swap to other skis. Do you guys know anyone that does this with way different widths? Seems like maybe I could get a tech binding that doesn't use brakes or how hard is it to swap brakes. Mostly the tech binding that I'd want to be able to swap but it'd be kinda cool to be able to swap both bindings on to new skis. It would make it a lot easier to spring for new skis in the future if I didn't have to shell out for new bindings each time. How much do you think it is to have a shop install the inserts?
Oct 13 2017 11:35AM
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Literature
Posts: 13673 - Karma: 3,085
When you factor in the time spent drilling inserts and swapping bindings, the process feels pretty cumbersome. Just put all those frustrated hours into a few more at work and pick up an extra setup. Dedicated touring gear and dedicated inbounds stuff will make your life far easier than plates, inserts, or hybrid systems that suck at everything.

Also, bindings like the Kingpin or Rad 2.0 can be a good hybrid setup, but they aren't gonna jib like a P14.
Oct 14 2017 2:22AM
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50Kal
Posts: 2828 - Karma: 5,373
LiteratureDedicated touring gear and dedicated inbounds stuff will make your life far easier than plates, inserts, or hybrid systems that suck at everything.

Also, bindings like the Kingpin or Rad 2.0 can be a good hybrid setup, but they aren't gonna jib like a P14.


Second this idea.
Oct 15 2017 11:03AM
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sammy_JJ
Posts: 257 - Karma: 115
My go to is the kingpin always for hybid/cross over situation but for the amount of resort your skiing and around Hood a frame AT may be a better option if you are only touring 15% of the time. F12s or a Baron would be the marker frames to look at.

I personally don't like using quicker killers or similar things because its a hassle to trade bindings and increase the risk of stripping screws or cross threading the inserts. Stripping screws is especially a problem with dynafit which seam to use torque screws made of a very soft metal lightweight metal.
Oct 26 2017 5:45PM
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OregonDead
Posts: 6890 - Karma: 24,546
sammy_JJMy go to is the kingpin always for hybid/cross over situation but for the amount of resort your skiing and around Hood a frame AT may be a better option if you are only touring 15% of the time. F12s or a Baron would be the marker frames to look at.

I personally don't like using quicker killers or similar things because its a hassle to trade bindings and increase the risk of stripping screws or cross threading the inserts. Stripping screws is especially a problem with dynafit which seam to use torque screws made of a very soft metal lightweight metal.

Yeah I decided not to go with another frame binding. Seems super heavy for the beefier versions and they still look like something that I could break.
Probably will get dedicated touring set up with pin bindings in the future if I get more into it.
Ordered some daymakers so I'm going to try that out for the missions I go on in the near future. Seems like a good solution because of the way I ride but I guess I will find out.
Oct 26 2017 6:54PM
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50Kal
Posts: 2828 - Karma: 5,373
OregonDeadYeah I decided not to go with another frame binding. Seems super heavy for the beefier versions and they still look like something that I could break.
Probably will get dedicated touring set up with pin bindings in the future if I get more into it.
Ordered some daymakers so I'm going to try that out for the missions I go on in the near future. Seems like a good solution because of the way I ride but I guess I will find out.


Please Post a review of the daymakers once you get them. Really curious on how they preform.
Dec 3 2017 8:42PM
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