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The CAST Pivot Freetour Thread

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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183
Hey guys, I know there are a lot of people interested in the CAST system and everything that goes into it.
I am making this thread to show every step of the way, provide feedback/reviews, and answer your guys questions that I can.
Hopefully this thread will help.. AND if anyone who has a CAST system has anything to add, please feel free. The more people providing first-hand experience in this thread, the better.


https://casttouring.com/products/pivot-freetour -- Link to the new Pivot Freetour

CAST@CASTTOURING.COM -- This is a great way to get a hold of CAST, they are usually pretty quick to respond and provide great service. If there aren't any questions I can answer, email these guys.





















To begin, I have received my Pivot 18s today. (yay) CAST will start taking orders on the 1st of October so that is when I plan to send mine in. From the pre-order email sent out by CAST, it sounds like they will be converting bindings throughout the month of November and hopefully shipped out by the end of November.



Those are them fancy Pivots.

Right now, they are only doing Pivot 18's (or FKS 18's), because they need a full metal binding.
You can either send in your own P18s, or buy some from SEGO (located in Driggs with CAST) through the CAST pre-order. If you buy the Pre-order and get Pivots from Sego, they're like $350. Which is one of the better prices out there. The pre-order cost for the conversion is $310, so total will be ~$650, if you buy the Pivots for $350 from SEGO.

PRE ORDER ENDS OCT 1st, SO HOP ON IT IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. Pre- order is a $20 deposit, so even if you decide to not go that route, its no big deal.
Sep 26 2017 10:13PM
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snowpocalypse
Posts: 1036 - Karma: 3,525
Now I 'm really pissed off. Mine still haven't moved. Still waiting for pick up. I will never recommend their shit to anyone. Don't care how it skis, the business practice is bull shit. Fuck you Cast.
Feb 21 2018 12:17PM
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mikemac
Posts: 1292 - Karma: 3,623
snowpocalypseNow I 'm really pissed off. Mine still haven't moved. Still waiting for pick up. I will never recommend their shit to anyone. Don't care how it skis, the business practice is bull shit. Fuck you Cast.

hilarious how NS is constantly ranting and raving about "supporting core companies" and "not selling out to the man." Here's a core company thats launching a brand new product unlike anything ever seen on the market, its literally two guys running it out of a garage, its gonna be bomber but they had some issues with production. I get that everyone is annoyed its late but damn don't get your panties in a wad.
Feb 21 2018 12:28PM
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Pataguccimane
Posts: 548 - Karma: 1,136
snowpocalypseNow I 'm really pissed off. Mine still haven't moved. Still waiting for pick up. I will never recommend their shit to anyone. Don't care how it skis, the business practice is bull shit. Fuck you Cast.


Chiiillllll

Remember, they still have to ship out bindings via the order que. Its not like they (or the postal service) have the infrastructure to put 3000 bindings out per day.
Feb 21 2018 12:30PM
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
snowpocalypseNow I 'm really pissed off. Mine still haven't moved. Still waiting for pick up. I will never recommend their shit to anyone. Don't care how it skis, the business practice is bull shit. Fuck you Cast.

How are you an orange name? You’re supposed to be a good influence and make the site better not spread vicious hate.

And anyway, you got a shipping notification on Sunday and last i checked fedex, ups and usps aren’t open on sundays. Everything got put in the mail on monday and Tuesday as they got boxed up, they’re shipping in the order they were ordered and obviously ones close to jackson are getting them first. Also its not casts fault that the post office hasn’t moved your bindings yet, it out of their control once its dropped off to ship.
Feb 21 2018 3:28PM
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snowpocalypse
Posts: 1036 - Karma: 3,525
I have an orange because I have worked hard to get where I am. Has nothing to do with loving everybody. I can be upset if I payed for something and have'nt received it yet. Not too sure why I have to be stoke when that does't happen. I'm not using my position or "influence" to ask for anything special, just the correct info on when my stuff will finally get to me as a consumer.
Feb 21 2018 3:49PM
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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183


Took a bit longer than expected, but I’m stoked. Came in yesterday, gonna go try them out tomorrow.

You have to mount the toes just right, if the screws are too tight it’s pain to swap toes, but if it’s too loose it won’t hold. My advice is to mount the shim, but keep it slightly loose, then put in the toe pieces and then tighten it down. Swap em out a few times each to find that money spot.

Thanks CAST!
Feb 22 2018 7:14PM
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Jimmiski
Posts: 2 - Karma: 10
Excited to start hearing some reviews. Have the original version and had been looking at Kingpins due to some of the known downsides: plate icing, single bail, brake retention bands and transition time. Love to hear if anyone does actually mount these with Quiver Killers.
Feb 23 2018 2:06PM
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Rum_Ham
Posts: 1449 - Karma: 4,482
JohnJonszI’m in! Skiing and skiining on em tomorrow. Thanks @RedBaron882 for the bindings.

Apparently they sent out ~200 cast packages the past few days. Let’s party



Is that 3 different Bibby models?
Feb 23 2018 3:43PM
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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183
JimmiskiExcited to start hearing some reviews. Have the original version and had been looking at Kingpins due to some of the known downsides: plate icing, single bail, brake retention bands and transition time. Love to hear if anyone does actually mount these with Quiver Killers.


Used em today! Transitions were good, no icing really, but I could see how they could ice up a bit in certain snow conditions. The bails and break lock worked great.

I just need to buy my own skis, borrowed an old pair cause I didn't have any. They were too thin and glue was going out, made for a struggling quick hike, but got some good turns in.

Stoked for good fitting, new skins so I can actually grip.
Feb 23 2018 7:06PM
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JohnJonsz
Posts: 317 - Karma: 871
Rum_HamIs that 3 different Bibby models?

Yep favorite ski ever... 2012 level 1 colabs that I broke in december, like new 2011s I just got and mounted w CAST, and 190cm 2017s that were my everyday ski til this week



This line is 10 mins from JHMR gate 2 but was untouched today 5 days after the last storm. Hundreds of people hike right past it cuz dropping this way requires skinning out. You can see peeps in the second photo hiking the ridgeline. This setup is opening up so many possibilities that would otherwise be difficult options to ski

Feb 24 2018 1:34AM
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DA_MTN_COSBY09
Posts: 4 - Karma: 10
Can I mount other look pivot model bindings or marker royal family bindings on the new cast system or is it just look pivot 18s.
Feb 24 2018 11:01AM
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NigelStein
Posts: 466 - Karma: 455
Only Pivot 18s on the new system.
Feb 24 2018 1:26PM
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Cheech_Sander
Posts: 338 - Karma: 1,660
I got mine finally! testing this weekend will report...
Feb 28 2018 12:27PM
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gowgo
Posts: 16 - Karma: 29
Is this rare case?

The cut of the left and right arms is insufficient and Tech Toe can not be closed.
Mar 1 2018 3:27AM
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
That shouldn’t be an issue with the shoulder bolts mounted to the ski, you should be able to get the tech toe back far enough, the tight fit acts as the locking mechanism when the tech toe is clicked into so it physically can’t come off.

Some of the tech toes were pretty tight but they were each hand tested by multiple people to make sure they would work.
Mar 1 2018 9:41AM
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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183
.lenconYou have to mount the toes just right, if the screws are too tight it’s pain to swap toes, but if it’s too loose it won’t hold. My advice is to mount the shim, but keep it slightly loose, then put in the toe pieces and then tighten it down. Swap em out a few times each to find that money spot.


gowgoIs this rare case?

The cut of the left and right arms is insufficient and Tech Toe can not be closed.

What I said above ^^^^

you have to have them mounted to be able to play around with them, but yeah, mount the shim, keeping the screws/shoulder bolts a little loose. Then tighten them to find the money spot where you are able to swap the toes, but so they are still solid. If I had the screws tightened all the way down, they wouldn’t swap easily, so they are ever so slightly loosened up a bit.
Mar 1 2018 11:50AM
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gowgo
Posts: 16 - Karma: 29
>TheWeaz
>.lencon

I point out manufacturing problems, not mounting.

I've finished mounting on ski and uploaded only Tech Toe images to clarify the problem.

Can you understand that there is physical imperfection in function?
Mar 1 2018 6:35PM
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gowgo
Posts: 16 - Karma: 29
>I point out manufacturing problems, not mounting.

I point out product problems, not mounting.
Mar 1 2018 7:12PM
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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183
gowgo>TheWeaz
>.lencon

I point out manufacturing problems, not mounting.

I've finished mounting on ski and uploaded only Tech Toe images to clarify the problem.

Can you understand that there is physical imperfection in function?


I understand that you are having problems, but I can’t really see anything out of the ordinary going on there.

You have to have the toe peice open in the first place to put it on, like the instructions say.

So you have the toe peice open when you put it on, but when you go to close it, it can’t close. I understand that’s your problem, but I’m just not seeing what is causing that problem, and it shouldn’t be an issue in the first place with their testing. How are you trying to lock in the toe peice?

**This post was edited on Mar 1st 2018 at 9:14:40pm
Mar 1 2018 9:11PM
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gowgo
Posts: 16 - Karma: 29
Sorry guys.
I did it.
I needed more pushy.

It was tight beyond my imagination.
It was made metal scraps....


>.lencon
Thank you for your care.

In order to lock the toes, stepping with the toes was not enough and it was necessary to pull the lever strongly.
This was beyond my imagination.
Mar 1 2018 9:49PM
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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183
gowgoSorry guys.
I did it.
I needed more pushy.

It was tight beyond my imagination.
It was made metal scraps....


>.lencon
Thank you for your care.

In order to lock the toes, stepping with the toes was not enough and it was necessary to pull the lever strongly.
This was beyond my imagination.


Yeah I had the same little “issue”, before I found my “money spot”.

Just play with them a bit, the more you swap them the easier.
Mar 2 2018 12:07AM
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TCSKIER66
Posts: 39 - Karma: 102
CAST fam.. Looks like we have all had this minor issue of the tech toe not seating "perfectly" at first as it had me pretty bummed out my second our third time using them.. But as I have started using them more, the tech toe has started going on way better! here is my set up... This setup is legit, I have wanted to throw a tech setup on these planks for awhile now, but coming from a ski shop background, there is no way I would huck a thing in a binding with 2 little tiny pins holding my toe onto the ski coming down. This product might have a little weight disadvantage, but the performance and RELIABILITY is what really matters at the end of the day.
Mar 5 2018 7:44AM
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JohnJonsz
Posts: 317 - Karma: 871
When silas mounted mine he tested both the alpine and tech toes, taking them on and off multiple times to get the right fit. For the tech toes he’d attach them, lock, unlock, remove em, reattach, lock, unlock, and remove. Based on your comments I guess theres a tightness sweet spot he was finding w the pins.

I’ve had no issue even in cold snowy icey conditions. Much easier than the former system
Mar 5 2018 7:44PM
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CLQ
Posts: 2709 - Karma: 11,260
I love Pivots but I'm a super light skier (135 lbs). Should I look somewhere else or do you guys think I could get away with an 18 din binding that'd be set at 8 or 9?
Mar 7 2018 3:15PM
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NigelStein
Posts: 466 - Karma: 455
I'm 125 and ride a Pivot 18. Just set the DIN at an 8-9. Havent read any conclusive research that being at the bottom of the DIN range is dangerous. People say it is but mine have always passed a bench test so...
Mar 7 2018 5:39PM
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
If you can find an old set of 15s they have a low end of 6 and can be used with the cast conversion.

that said I weigh about as much as you and run my toes on 9 and heels on 10 and haven’t had any issues. Lars and silas confirmed that the whole din range is usable when I was there asking them questions.
Mar 7 2018 6:00PM
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gowgo
Posts: 16 - Karma: 29
My weight is 130 lb.
FKS 180 felt the spring was too hard.
I did not want to use the lower limit DIN.

I purchased new Rossignol AXIAL toe piece from auction.
Used with FKS 140 heel piece to DIN 8.
It is the same DIN, but feeling when into the bindings is good.
Mar 8 2018 1:53AM
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Jimmiski
Posts: 2 - Karma: 10
NigelSteinOnly Pivot 18s on the new system.


What about FKS 180s?
Mar 20 2018 10:17AM
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NigelStein
Posts: 466 - Karma: 455
Theyre the same thing
Mar 20 2018 12:28PM
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mcfrisk
Posts: 3 - Karma: 157
Hi,
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...



**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm
Apr 20 2018 7:07PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7145 - Karma: 17,457
NigelSteinI'm 125 and ride a Pivot 18. Just set the DIN at an 8-9. Havent read any conclusive research that being at the bottom of the DIN range is dangerous. People say it is but mine have always passed a bench test so...

With fks or pivot the issue is more if you use a super low din that the din retention screw will just back out. I have had this with a female pro who used cast but had to run the p18 toe at minimum. She lost the retention screw and spring as they will just back out as there is so little force on them. Although they may work because of the lack of force on the screw they should not really be run that low. Always aim for the middle of the range. Unless you need 10 or 11 plus don't use the p18
Apr 21 2018 7:43PM
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NigelStein
Posts: 466 - Karma: 455
tomPietrowskiWith fks or pivot the issue is more if you use a super low din that the din retention screw will just back out. I have had this with a female pro who used cast but had to run the p18 toe at minimum. She lost the retention screw and spring as they will just back out as there is so little force on them. Although they may work because of the lack of force on the screw they should not really be run that low. Always aim for the middle of the range. Unless you need 10 or 11 plus don't use the p18

Yeah I had that start to happen last year. I've started to check my toe pieces every day since, make sure there's no play and DIN is still set properly. If you do your due diligence I figure there's no issue. You know a hell of a lot more than me though, if I'm wrong by all means please let me know.
Apr 21 2018 8:58PM
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.lencon
Posts: 6753 - Karma: 17,183
tomPietrowskiWith fks or pivot the issue is more if you use a super low din that the din retention screw will just back out. I have had this with a female pro who used cast but had to run the p18 toe at minimum. She lost the retention screw and spring as they will just back out as there is so little force on them. Although they may work because of the lack of force on the screw they should not really be run that low. Always aim for the middle of the range. Unless you need 10 or 11 plus don't use the p18


Is that only fks/pivot? Or is that a good guideline for all binders??
Apr 21 2018 9:19PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7145 - Karma: 17,457
.lenconIs that only fks/pivot? Or is that a good guideline for all binders??


For all bindings. I had it recently on an Sth too. If you have it wound all the way out there is just not much tension there at the very bottom end. The best advice has always been to look for a binding where your din sits right in the middle. So if you ski 8 or 9 for your din your best on a 12-13 binding. If you ride 10 or 11 your prob best on a 14. Only really 12+ should be on a 16 or 18 din binding.
Apr 22 2018 4:58AM
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JohnJonsz
Posts: 317 - Karma: 871
mcfriskHi,
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...



**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm

My AFDs (the white plate your toes rest on) also detached from the black toe riser thing. Bad glue job. Popped right out when I accidentally dropped a toe piece on hard floor. I redid with gorilla glue on the one that broke off and added a dab on the other three. I’d recommend adding glue before use because I could have lost the plates if I hadn’t noticed. All good now and everything else is holding up at around 40 days on them.






I setup line sfb 108s as my second CAST pair for spring skiing and have been riding timberline laps and skinnin up for exercise (hood backcountry is mostly low angle). Bachelor this weekend then back to hood midweek. I don’t notice the extra weight when skiing at all and doesn’t make much difference skinning up, but I do notice heavyness just when carrying my skis like from the lot and back
Apr 27 2018 1:03PM
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PubsAnkh
Posts: 2 - Karma: 10
mcfriskHi,
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...



**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm


Excellent review I plan to ride cast freetour next season, but a recent knee injury forces me to lose 10 to 8 din. Have you continued using 8 din? You have not had problems with this minimum configuration of 8 din? Do you have any recommendations for me? Greetings from Spain

https://es-es.facebook.com/roberto.bierhaus

**This post was edited on Jun 3rd 2018 at 8:37:08am
Jun 1 2018 10:54AM
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mcfrisk
Posts: 3 - Karma: 157
PubsAnkhExcellent review I plan to ride cast freetour next season, but a recent knee injury forces me to lose 10 to 8 din. Have you continued using 8 din? You have not had problems with this minimum configuration of 8 din? Do you have any recommendations for me? Greetings from Spain


Thanks. I'm still riding dins around 8 or so. Have been skiing on race track and carving as fast as I dare on the black glacier slopes in Sölden with them so they seem really reliable. My old Guardians with toe piece wiggle would have ejected at those speeds. But I have self-made boot mods which are non-standard so this could be affecting the ejection, AFD sliding and boot pressure against the bindings. Received the updated WTR AFDs from CAST week ago and will use some superglue to make sure they stay in place as was suggested in the update email from CAST.
Jun 3 2018 6:20AM
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PubsAnkh
Posts: 2 - Karma: 10
mcfriskThanks. I'm still riding dins around 8 or so. Have been skiing on race track and carving as fast as I dare on the black glacier slopes in Sölden with them so they seem really reliable. My old Guardians with toe piece wiggle would have ejected at those speeds. But I have self-made boot mods which are non-standard so this could be affecting the ejection, AFD sliding and boot pressure against the bindings. Received the updated WTR AFDs from CAST week ago and will use some superglue to make sure they stay in place as was suggested in the update email from CAST.


Yes, I saw Solden, we may ski like that, that's why I ask you. I have my p18, without Cast, mounted and I have been playing with them. I have discovered that 1 mm difference in height makes a big difference in how the toe works. Lange Xt with alpine sole works much better than my Tecnica Cochise 130 dyn, also with alpine sole. Although it should work the same, it is not like that. With Lange xt the toe becomes much better and faster at the center. I advise you to look at your boots, 1 mm is very noticeable in my case. I'm looking forward to your next adventures with Cast. I hope you understand my English.

https://es-es.facebook.com/roberto.bierhaus

**This post was edited on Jun 3rd 2018 at 8:36:12am
Jun 3 2018 8:17AM
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H0llyw00d
Posts: 49 - Karma: 66
Does anyone on here live in canada and had them shipped to canada? Curious what customs is going to cost.
Sep 4 2018 7:20PM
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SpiessMaster
Posts: 11 - Karma: 11
H0llyw00dDoes anyone on here live in canada and had them shipped to canada? Curious what customs is going to cost.


Ditto. Also interested to hear about general performance. CAST vs regular pivot 18. What about uphill performance? Any icing issues? Anyone drop a toepiece at the top of the hike? I know you should be in the middle of the range of your binding DIN but does anyone have more input on running 18's at a low din? I'm an 8 or 9 by the chart, but really the pivot 18s are without a doubt the best designed binding on the market aside from the high range.
Nov 25 2018 6:35PM
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TimersMix
Posts: 54 - Karma: 100
Anyone heard when they are shipping?
Dec 25 2018 7:02PM
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
SpiessMasterDitto. Also interested to hear about general performance. CAST vs regular pivot 18. What about uphill performance? Any icing issues? Anyone drop a toepiece at the top of the hike? I know you should be in the middle of the range of your binding DIN but does anyone have more input on running 18's at a low din? I'm an 8 or 9 by the chart, but really the pivot 18s are without a doubt the best designed binding on the market aside from the high range.


Downhill performance is exactly the same as a regular p18, I can’t tell the difference when switching between my cast p18s and my regular p15s which are the same design but lower din and much older.

Uphill performance is pretty dialed as well, especially with the updated tech toes, the first version I have have pretty tight tolerance on one of the interfaces that causes some annoyance that should be fixed on the newer purple toes.

As for running them at a low din, that shouldn’t be an issue as long as your bindings are relatively new. As all bindings age they test higher than they should, mostly from grit getting into the moving parts and the grease getting washed away. For example my p15s test at an 8 din in the toe when set to 6.5, while my newer p18s test at 8 when set to 8.
Dec 26 2018 11:46AM
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cheener12
Posts: 2881 - Karma: 5,884
hey y'all, running into an issue with the brake holder not holding the brake?? It seems to work on one ski but on the other it slips out? anyone else have issues with this? very frustrating
Jan 26 2021 8:16PM
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pjo
Posts: 3 - Karma: 25
cheener12hey y'all, running into an issue with the brake holder not holding the brake?? It seems to work on one ski but on the other it slips out? anyone else have issues with this? very frustrating


I've got two sets of skis right now, both with cast, a well-reputable shop completely mounted one pair and the other was mounted by yours truly... the brake retainer on the pair I did has been super stiff/tight, to the point where its hard to unlock. The set from the shop has been flawless so I think it really comes down to the quality of mount and use of the supplied template from cast. For your case of it being too loose and popping out I'd recommend maybe tightening the two torx screws on the side of the brake retainer to see if that helps or maybe seek out different mounting holes which would be a pain. It would be nice to see cast design the brake retainer to be able to slide on the two vertical mounting screws so that you'd be able to adjust the fore/aft position of the whole unit. I tightened up those torx screws when the retainer loosened up and was flopping underneath my boot while in alpine mode, so maybe that trick could help you in your case. Cheers!
Jan 26 2021 9:15PM
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
You can also try loosening the two screws holding the brake holder onto the ski, just loosen them slightly, then engage the holder and tighten the screws again. I’ve had good luck doing that, sometimes the sticker used to drill those holes doesn’t perfectly align everything which cause the brake holder to come un done.
Jan 26 2021 10:15PM
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cheener12
Posts: 2881 - Karma: 5,884
parkeroverbyI've got two sets of skis right now, both with cast, a well-reputable shop completely mounted one pair and the other was mounted by yours truly... the brake retainer on the pair I did has been super stiff/tight, to the point where its hard to unlock. The set from the shop has been flawless so I think it really comes down to the quality of mount and use of the supplied template from cast. For your case of it being too loose and popping out I'd recommend maybe tightening the two torx screws on the side of the brake retainer to see if that helps or maybe seek out different mounting holes which would be a pain. It would be nice to see cast design the brake retainer to be able to slide on the two vertical mounting screws so that you'd be able to adjust the fore/aft position of the whole unit. I tightened up those torx screws when the retainer loosened up and was flopping underneath my boot while in alpine mode, so maybe that trick could help you in your case. Cheers!


my guy!! tightened them and they seem to be holding!! the idea to have the brake retainer be able to slide is genius too. Thank you sir, all the karmic blessings to you. after some unrelated pivot issues and messed up mounts I was about ready to throw the whole setup into the trash, so thanks for saving me!
Jan 26 2021 10:25PM
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cheener12
Posts: 2881 - Karma: 5,884
TheWeazYou can also try loosening the two screws holding the brake holder onto the ski, just loosen them slightly, then engage the holder and tighten the screws again. I’ve had good luck doing that, sometimes the sticker used to drill those holes doesn’t perfectly align everything which cause the brake holder to come un done.


good advice I will keep this in mind for future reference
Jan 26 2021 10:27PM
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pjo
Posts: 3 - Karma: 25
cheener12my guy!! tightened them and they seem to be holding!! the idea to have the brake retainer be able to slide is genius too. Thank you sir, all the karmic blessings to you. after some unrelated pivot issues and messed up mounts I was about ready to throw the whole setup into the trash, so thanks for saving me!


Glad it worked out! Remount would have been shitty. All the best my friend!
Jan 26 2021 11:15PM
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edai
Posts: 4987 - Karma: 4,653
pjoI've got two sets of skis right now, both with cast, a well-reputable shop completely mounted one pair and the other was mounted by yours truly... the brake retainer on the pair I did has been super stiff/tight, to the point where its hard to unlock. The set from the shop has been flawless so I think it really comes down to the quality of mount and use of the supplied template from cast. For your case of it being too loose and popping out I'd recommend maybe tightening the two torx screws on the side of the brake retainer to see if that helps or maybe seek out different mounting holes which would be a pain. It would be nice to see cast design the brake retainer to be able to slide on the two vertical mounting screws so that you'd be able to adjust the fore/aft position of the whole unit. I tightened up those torx screws when the retainer loosened up and was flopping underneath my boot while in alpine mode, so maybe that trick could help you in your case. Cheers!


good content, thanks boss
Feb 26 2022 6:19PM
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