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.CJ.My friend took his Amplids with the black and gold fks 150's to be remounted but the shop said the bindings are too old. My friend says that he doesn't care and wants me to mount them for him since he doesn't trust himself. I've mounted bindings before but I did it freehand without a jig and they turned out okayish. The jig I'm using is https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0SnAf18fUXAWVgtTDNqOGJNcHc/edit If anyone else could walk me through how to use a jig, that would be great.
waiting4snowStrongly against using paper jigs. I don't know where you live but if there are other shops in your area, I'm sure someone would do it. A lot of shops will do (un-indemnified) bindings if you sign a second release form. Especially with turntable binding (FKS's) I just would not want to take the chance of being off by a millimeter or two
chickena millimeter? how accurate do you think shop jigs are....
TDD536You don't need the jig... Get out a damn ruler and do some measurements. A drill press helps immensely. Tape your bit so you don't go too far into the ski. Wood glue your screws in. Hand tighten your screws to avoid stripping.
MuggydudeThis is horrible advice.
IMO paper templates are more accurate than any jig if you do it right. Freehanding it is a horrible idea.
TDD536Can you tell me why? I've done it on multiple pairs of skis and they rode just fine. All the jig does is measure for you, and if I have the proper knowledge of how to measure whats to stop me from doing it freehand and succeeding?
I used a ruler, a drill press, lots of masking tape, and a sharpie. Not rocket science.
MuggydudeBecause I know how easy it is to get the holes off even when being very careful with templates or even jigs, with a drill press, let alone freehanding it. Sure you might be able get it within acceptability by hand, but going to say I doubt your bindings are perfectly centered, straight, and set optimally.
I'm more of a perfectionist granted, but for a little extra work (though honestly I'd imagine freehanding is more work than templates - templates simply do all the measuring for you??), definitely worth it to use templates.
MuggydudeBecause I know how easy it is to get the holes off even when being very careful with templates or even jigs, with a drill press, let alone freehanding it. Sure you might be able get it within acceptability by hand, but going to say I doubt your bindings are perfectly centered, straight, and set optimally.
I'm more of a perfectionist granted, but for a little extra work (though honestly I'd imagine freehanding is more work than templates - templates simply do all the measuring for you??), definitely worth it to use templates.
VT_scratchusing a paper template tonight to mount some old fks / pivots onto some 2007 rossi scratchs! will let ya know how it goes. will probably do a test mount on a 2bi4 as suggested. #pivotplug
RudyGarmischHere are my methods.
1) Print off jig, checking scaling on print against an actual ruler
2) Cut away most of the template. The only important pieces are the hole locations and sizing alignment tracks.
3) Run a 3-4ft section of painters tape down your ski centered around where you want to mount. Find center via the paper scales on the left of your template you posted (or any flexible tape with measure marks works I guess) - make a midline, bend tape over the topsheet to the edge, and mark center on the painters tape with a pen. Do this 3-6 times through the midsection of the ski to get a row of dots.
4) Connect the dots with a straight edge, best fit line through as many points as you can. This is now your center mark.
5) I use clear packing tape and just drop the template right down onto the ski where I want to mount. Get a screw punch or sharp metal object and hammer a tap on each of the template hole centers to mark all of them INTO the actual ski.
6) Remove template and freehand drill. Dont be an idiot, straight up and down, with a stop bit. Clamping the ski down is a good idea generally.
7) Clean topsheet, cut away plastic scraps, knock out debris from holes, glue with glue of choice (wood glue for me), starting slowly, WITH A POSI, applying more pressure and force as it sets. Tighten each screw like you do on a set of lugs nuts for tires, alternate to furthest away as you set. On the rare chance the screw just spins continually without seating, drink a beer and go bring it sheepishly to your local shop the next day.
I like the idea of doing a trial run on a 2x4 but 2x4's lack a distinct tip and tail. Always a good idea to check and make sure EVERYTHING looks right before you go and drill - set the binding on the actual ski, step away and look. I havent mounted a ski backwards yet, but I've come close...
sarcThe hardest part for me is finding the distance from the front holes to the boot center mount point mark. It's a little different for each binding /boot combo so the paper templates tend to be a little off on this. Test mounting on a 2x4 was a big revelation for me and allows me tto find that distance, something I learned here.
I always center punch, then drill a small 1/16 pilot hole, then drill the final hole with a tape marker for depth. Works really well very accurate. I have a press but don't usually bother with it for this.
SFBv420.0take paper jig
fill with dank weed
roll into cone
take said spliff to shop
give to techs
watch pros use proper tools
take now mounted skis
go skiing
anders_acouldt just pay tech to drill some hole, mount your own, or surely some buddy has a jig?
I do this for buddies and buddies buddies all the time