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So I'm going to get some boots fitted and whilst I'll let the boot fitter recommend and tell me what boots suit my feet and my skiing style. What are your thoughts on the Atomic Hawx Ultra 130? I was just browsing their boot range seeing what they may recommend to me. and saw these what are your thoughts?
Try asking in an atomic dealer if they have any of the plastic spacers. They attach to the instep or toe buckle and push the top of the shell down when the buckle is closed. I believe they come with the new models of that boot and dealers should have a few spares.
tomPietrowskiTry asking in an atomic dealer if they have any of the plastic spacers. They attach to the instep or toe buckle and push the top of the shell down when the buckle is closed. I believe they come with the new models of that boot and dealers should have a few spares.
Had a similar gap and the plastic spacers made it a bit better but then got a much higher, weather strip upgrade from Atomic which is similar to their current versions and seal is much better. Just a higher, longer rubber weather strip that I glued onto the original flat factory ones.
I'm looking at buying a pair of 2019 Hawx ultra 130 s. I'm coming from a pair of 2013 or 14 Redster world cup 130s in 25.5 that fit good enough in the heel and last after baking that I could probably ski them unbuckled, but short in length. The redsters are great for racing and on-piste sking, but too short to be comfortable for rough chopped up off-piste stuff. I'm looking for something a little warmer and more comfortable to spend the day in while maintaining performance, and not lose toenails when skiing rough snow or drops etc.
I haven't had a chance to try on the regular ultra 130's but I tried on a pair of 2019 Hawx ultra 120 xtd in size 25.5 and they felt good in the last but way too small for me in length. I like my boots on the tighter side but I think the xtd's I tried on fit shorter in length than my redsters ever did, even before baking. I was originally thinking club-sports but after feeling how light the hawx were and the fit seemed narrow enough I think the hawx are the way to go.
How do the regular ultra 130s fit in comparison to the 120 xtd's?
How do the regular ultra 130s fit in comparison to the 120 xtd's?
The last is 100% the same between normal Ultra and Ultra XTD. Same length, forefoot width, instep height, heel, cuff height, etc. If a 25/25.5 Ultra XTD was too short for you, then so will a normal Ultra. Go with the 26/26.5
onenerdykidThe last is 100% the same between normal Ultra and Ultra XTD. Same length, forefoot width, instep height, heel, cuff height, etc. If a 25/25.5 Ultra XTD was too short for you, then so will a normal Ultra. Go with the 26/26.5
Thanks. Will the toe box extend with baking or is it pretty much just for width? How much can it be punched to increase length? I think I'd need at least 5mm to fit the 25.5
elocmaThanks. Will the toe box extend with baking or is it pretty much just for width? How much can it be punched to increase length? I think I'd need at least 5mm to fit the 25.5
Memory Fit doesn't really help with length, but the shell can be punched 5mm for sure. But then you need the liner go to that much further, which is more difficult. If you need at least 5mm of length, then you should go with the 26.5. Have you tried one on?
onenerdykidYep- adding the second screw will roughly stiffen the boot by 10 points, and pulling the top screw from the 130 will soften it by the same. Never remove both screws from the Power Shift piece.
The bootfitter at my shop had me take off the power shift piece from the 120s for a softer flex. I am 6' 150 lbs, but I am a skinny teenager that has been putting on more pounds recently and will be getting heavier as I start lifting more. I am also a very aggressive skier who races in a semi-competitive league (along with big mountain and park, all in the same boot). I was thinking about putting it back on, at least to race, mostly to achieve a more aggressive forward lean. Was taking it off a mistake? What harm does it cause? Would you recommend putting it back on, and with 15 or 17 degrees?
abar.The bootfitter at my shop had me take off the power shift piece from the 120s for a softer flex. I am 6' 150 lbs, but I am a skinny teenager that has been putting on more pounds recently and will be getting heavier as I start lifting more. I am also a very aggressive skier who races in a semi-competitive league (along with big mountain and park, all in the same boot). I was thinking about putting it back on, at least to race, mostly to achieve a more aggressive forward lean. Was taking it off a mistake? What harm does it cause? Would you recommend putting it back on, and with 15 or 17 degrees?
You need to put the piece back on. This is a structurally integral part of the boot. Without it you risk damaging the cuff.
Your forward lean that is defined first by your ankle's range of motion, and second by personal preference. If you don't know what this is, see if your boot-fitter can perform an ankle flexibility test.
Is it possible to cook new liners and slip them in a boot shell that has already been through the memoryfit process? Will the heat from the liners deform (or loosen) the shell itself? Also, would it be possible to just cook the liners in an oven, or should I (probably should) find a store to do it in?
Thanks, Joel.
Btw, the warranty was awesome! They sent me the wrong boots at first but now I’m on a pair of fresh Ultras!
HoelIs it possible to cook new liners and slip them in a boot shell that has already been through the memoryfit process? Will the heat from the liners deform (or loosen) the shell itself? Also, would it be possible to just cook the liners in an oven, or should I (probably should) find a store to do it in?
Thanks, Joel.
Btw, the warranty was awesome! They sent me the wrong boots at first but now I’m on a pair of fresh Ultras!
Glad you got new boots sorted!
If you already have a shell that went through the Memory Fit process, don't cook it again. Just have a shop heat the liner on a hot air blower, add your footbeds, put the liner in the shell, and hang out for 10 minutes with the boot buckled on a medium tension.
What are the changes if any to the boot for next year?
Have the original year with added weather stripping and the buckle mods but still find water does get in a bit sometimes and they have always been cold. Tried many types of socks and use antiperspirant and they are still colder than any previous boot I’ve owned. Weighing the “get an intuition liner” vs “get a 2018/19 model next month on a deal” hoping it’s seals are better so it’s warmer. Thoughts?
**This post was edited on Feb 15th 2019 at 9:02:50am
Greg_KWhat are the changes if any to the boot for next year?
Have the original year with added weather stripping and the buckle mods but still find water does get in a bit sometimes and they have always been cold. Tried many types of socks and use antiperspirant and they are still colder than any previous boot I’ve owned. Weighing the “get an intuition liner” vs “get a 2018/19 model next month on a deal” hoping it’s seals are better so it’s warmer. Thoughts?
**This post was edited on Feb 15th 2019 at 9:02:50am
Changes from 18/19 to 19/20 are only cosmetic.
But, compared to the original year, both 18/19 & 19/20 boots have much better shell closure and water sealing improvements. Improved shell closure keeps both water and wind out better, so these new boots are also warmer.
onenerdykidChanges from 18/19 to 19/20 are only cosmetic.
But, compared to the original year, both 18/19 & 19/20 boots have much better shell closure and water sealing improvements. Improved shell closure keeps both water and wind out better, so these new boots are also warmer.
Yeah some two component silicone from a local chemical store. Not really squishy or soft but works just fine for bigger impacts. Made the first ones two years ago and now did some adjustments/space for the silicone to spread a bit laterally so they wont spring the force back upwards.
Bought next years 130 xtd. So far very happy. Boot fit was smooth. Did a day tour (no blisters finally!) and resort day on them so far. Very happy. Coming from Salomon Quest Max 120 this boot is freakishly light!
@onenerdykid why can’t the sole grip be improved on this boot? Coming off Rangers, I feel way sketchier doing my swag walk off “yeah I totally skied that line” in icy parking lots.
RudyGarmisch@onenerdykid why can’t the sole grip be improved on this boot? Coming off Rangers, I feel way sketchier doing my swag walk off “yeah I totally skied that line” in icy parking lots.
The grey boot pictured above is next year's version with a new sole. The sole material is still Skywalk rubber (main producer for Vibram, made in Italy) but changes from WTR to Grip Walk, so swag walk is 100% guaranteed.
starystaregoThose new black 130 ultras looks absolutely f... rad, omg!
@onenerdykid
Duude, can you help me out?:) Tommorow I'm picking yr 19 hawx magna 130, size 29.
1. Would you, personally, if they fit very nice, still heatmold them or just leave it at factory size? If not, what about inner boot?
2. Is there an option of canting in Magna? Why not?:(
3. Does hawx magna 130 19/20 have anything upgraded? How do they look?:)
4. My feet width is 110mm,,, Is there any chance I'll fit into 130 ultra? Or am I for live being stuck with inferior skiboots to ultra?:(((
Cheers!
**This post was edited on Feb 21st 2019 at 11:17:06pm
**This post was edited on Feb 21st 2019 at 11:20:40pm
Glad you think the new boots look sick!
1. When a boot fits, don't touch it. Maybe heat mold the liner. But always add a custom footbed.
2. Hawx Magna cannot be sole canted, but not many people are looking to do that with this boot anyway. It just uses a different bottom construction than our other Hawx boots. But you've still got world cup-level PU plastic, adjustable flex, adjustable geometry, cuff alignment, and a fully customizable shell-cuff-liner if you need it. Lots of customization potential.
3. Only a color change. They go to black and red (but not like the Ultra I pictured). They will look more like the current Prime 130.
4. In size 29, Hawx Ultra is 104mm wide... If you try to go Ultra, it will take a lot more work to get it to fit right, and no guarantee that it will. Especially over the instep. You might be able to get into a Hawx Prime, but it just depends on your foot and how much time you are willing to invest in customizing it and your tolerance for pain, which I can't answer for you. And ultimately, Hawx Magna isn't really an inferior boot- it's just different and honestly it's a lot more boot than what many other competitors offer in that category. It's built with super nice plastics, an awesome liner and lots of adjustments.
onenerdykid1. When a boot fits, don't touch it. Maybe heat mold the liner. But always add a custom footbed.
How do I heat mold the liner? I bet those guys in my shop doesn't know. Not even listed as having memory fit on web, so I bet its generic oven (which is ok as I've read in atomic manual:))
117°C for 3minutes?
Thank you for response! I feel much better with your reassurance that magnies are good:)
Just got a pair of the 2018 130 Ultra's and am impressed so far but I have pain at the back of my heel when I flex the boot forward. I am a big guy and have been a ski racer most of my life so this boot feels softer than a warm banana to me but i want to try to make it work for back country laps. Also, Ive been doing my own boot fitting (grinding & punching & foam injecting) for years but never had an issue like this to solve. I've baked the shells and liners which helped some but I am wondering if I can isolate just the heel area and apply heat to try to fix this pain point? Would lowering the footbed work? Any tips would be appreciated.
So I got those hawx magna 130 and they are beautifull, fitting perfect without heating (added custom sidas sole) :) Anyone knows shop where I can buy key/screwdriver for cuff alignment?
starystaregoSo I got those hawx magna 130 and they are beautifull, fitting perfect without heating (added custom sidas sole) :) Anyone knows shop where I can buy key/screwdriver for cuff alignment?
Big, beautiful boots :)
You can either:
-buy a torx 30 & adjustable pin spanner from a hardware store or bike shop
-buy an Atomic boot adjustment tool from a shop that sells Atomic products
This got to be the thread on boots with most information anywhere. Awesome job!
So I tried the boots(Ultra 110 and 130). Love the fit, love the weight love them. Except, ok this will sound really dumb but I never had this much trouble getting OUT of the boot. Maybe it is my ankle(right one was dislocated in a bouldering fall and is bigger then left) or or I am not sure what the issue is but shell unless I use both hand to really pull it apart as hard as I can it pinches the tendon on top of the foot/ankle, in a very painful way. I never had this issue before, but I never skied in Atomic boots(had Nordica and FT boots before). This was in the shop.. on a cold day outside this could potentially really suck.
I also read the discussion earlier on differences between 110 and 130. I like softer boot.. but nicer liner argh. I don’t like some things about FT(like those shitty buckles) but you can get boots with flex you want an liner is same. Couldn’t you sell them online? Like you could pick a liner option and have it shipped. I mean the geometry looks same just pay extra for nicer liner and be happy. I don’t need 130 boot
GoryubThis got to be the thread on boots with most information anywhere. Awesome job!
So I tried the boots(Ultra 110 and 130). Love the fit, love the weight love them. Except, ok this will sound really dumb but I never had this much trouble getting OUT of the boot. Maybe it is my ankle(right one was dislocated in a bouldering fall and is bigger then left) or or I am not sure what the issue is but shell unless I use both hand to really pull it apart as hard as I can it pinches the tendon on top of the foot/ankle, in a very painful way. I never had this issue before, but I never skied in Atomic boots(had Nordica and FT boots before). This was in the shop.. on a cold day outside this could potentially really suck.
I also read the discussion earlier on differences between 110 and 130. I like softer boot.. but nicer liner argh. I don’t like some things about FT(like those shitty buckles) but you can get boots with flex you want an liner is same. Couldn’t you sell them online? Like you could pick a liner option and have it shipped. I mean the geometry looks same just pay extra for nicer liner and be happy. I don’t need 130 boot
Thanks!
Helpful tip for taking off any stiff/low volume boot: place one hand on the back of the calf part of the liner to push the boot off and with your other hand grab the medial flap of the lower shell and pull it open as you push on the back of the boot & step out. This will really help. Don't ever grab the tongue and pull up on it. This will totally kill your instep in the process because you will pull the tongue through the shell overlap and consequently expose your instep to the shell overlap.
Being able to piecemeal a boot together with some sort of configurator is an awesome idea, but we are unfortunately not set up to deal with doing that yet. But who knows what the future will bring :)
Goryubok this will sound really dumb but I never had this much trouble getting OUT of the boot. Maybe it is my ankle(right one was dislocated in a bouldering fall and is bigger then left) or or I am not sure what the issue is but shell unless I use both hand to really pull it apart as hard as I can it pinches the tendon on top of the foot/ankle, in a very painful way.
They're pretty hard to take off, but you get used to it after a while and it gets easier (except with cold hands).
Isn't the only difference between the Gold and Platinum liner the heat moldable tongue?
Helpful tip for taking off any stiff/low volume boot: place one hand on the back of the calf part of the liner to push the boot off and with your other hand grab the medial flap of the lower shell and pull it open as you push on the back of the boot & step out. This will really help. Don't ever grab the tongue and pull up on it. This will totally kill your instep in the process because you will pull the tongue through the shell overlap and consequently expose your instep to the shell overlap.
Being able to piecemeal a boot together with some sort of configurator is an awesome idea, but we are unfortunately not set up to deal with doing that yet. But who knows what the future will bring :)
Will give it a shot, I did not touch the tongue but my ankle would push it between shell anyway that was the problem. This could be because I was pulling both sides apart. Maybe with a medial only it will work better. Will give it a shot!
One more question. Can WTR or other type of “nicer to walk” soles be fitted on them?
GoryubWill give it a shot, I did not touch the tongue but my ankle would push it between shell anyway that was the problem. This could be because I was pulling both sides apart. Maybe with a medial only it will work better. Will give it a shot!
One more question. Can WTR or other type of “nicer to walk” soles be fitted on them?
All of our Hawx boots that have replaceable soles can be fitted with GripWalk soles. The US & Canada didn't bring much of them in just yet (so they may be hard to find) but for Fall 2019 they will definitely be available.
onenerdykidAll of our Hawx boots that have replaceable soles can be fitted with GripWalk soles. The US & Canada didn't bring much of them in just yet (so they may be hard to find) but for Fall 2019 they will definitely be available.
Pulling just medial part of the shell worked much better, while difficult getting out is not painful at all. thank you
Broke the plastic power strap on my Ultra 120s'. However, I still have the straps from my old ultras and I was thinking that I'd just swap them out. However, I realised that the strap isn't held by screws in the new boots. How should I approach removing the strap attachments?
HoelBroke the plastic power strap on my Ultra 120s'. However, I still have the straps from my old ultras and I was thinking that I'd just swap them out. However, I realised that the strap isn't held by screws in the new boots. How should I approach removing the strap attachments?
Drill out the rivets on the new boots and use the screws and back plate from the old ones. They will line up.
Really love these boots for strengths (light, comfy, all-mountain up/down freeride), but strength is also a weakness. Not sure if material or thickness is to blame, but result was failure in upper cuff. Boots had ~10 days on them, 6' 180# rider, good fall caused the pop. I bought them again even before Atomic warranty replacement. I'd think about replacing with Nordica promachine for one boot quiver, but I have 2018 Lange RX LVs that are great on heavier end so the Nordica's don't have a good place. The Lange lateral stiffness is pretty insane compared to Hawx, but Hawx works well enough for my 60 days/year and I value the weight savings.
I wouldn't call these warm, or dry, but I'd pick them again because they are light, comfy, and awesome all-mountain up/down freeride.
Onenerdykid also accessible, transparent, and brutally honest, so thanks for that and keep it up.
I am one of 3 of my friends who all ride the 100-120-130 flexes and we have all loved the fit and can still feel our toes on powder days, one of us is a die hard backcountry guy and loves the alpine feel, I am moving towards park and the weight is a great feeling, and I know someone who rocks these on the Alta big mountain team. If it holds your ankle in place you can’t go wrong with these (ankles are a bit loose so I crank them down pretty hard, if anybody has a magical trick to help with this plz HMU)
I just picked up a pair of the ultra 130 s, super stoked. Great compliment to my XTD's
I rode a day in resort and feel i want to push the forward lean to 17*. I pulled off the powershift and tried to push it forward to the 17, but couldnt even get it to budge. going back to 13* was no problem at all though. Am I missing something?
