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ben_collinsI set it to infinity and checked to make sure it was still set multiple times.
I've heard lots of bad things about it on NS anyway and I am also interested in the zoom of the Tokinas
BumpzNtreesthe hard stop is past infinity which I'm sure you know but maybe your subject was a bit closer? like ten feet? try that next time. Also, what aperture are you using? If you're shooting in sunlight, close it up a little and that will sharpen up your image. you should upload a clip on youtube and post it here so people can see what you're describing as "blurry and crappy". maybe you're a gangster on the lens and you're just using a slow ass shutter speed and getting motion blur. not much to go off..
ben_collinsMy subject was about 10 feet away, aperture was 16, ISO 400, sharpness was set all the way down but with my other lens when I set the sharpness all the way down it still looks nice and sharp. My frame rate was 60 and shutter was 125
nutz.how did the footage all turn out blurry and crappy? do you not check your focus to make sure it's spot on during the day?
Also with the sharpness thing... if you're looking for sharp footage you might as well set the sharpness at zero or -1/2, that's where I get the best results tbh. What's the reason you're dialing all the way down?
ben_collinsMy subject was about 10 feet away, aperture was 16, ISO 400, sharpness was set all the way down but with my other lens when I set the sharpness all the way down it still looks nice and sharp. My frame rate was 60 and shutter was 125
BumpzNtreesso focus wasn't the issue if you're at 16. Try a much faster shutter speed. Im going to assume youre shooting during the day. firstly, you can get a sharp image out of this lens with it much more open. obviously favor a higher aperture, but don't be afraid to go down to at least 8 to help accommodate for the quicker shutter speed. I'd still be interested in seeing a sample clip but my best guess is that your image is not sharp because of motion blur.
ski.the.eastdamn this thread is getting crazy, I completely agree with OP, even under perfect conditions/settings the roki 14mm is unfotunelty a trash lens so the footage just isn't going to look anywhere near as good as an 11-16. It's soft and has ridiculously unprofessional distortion for a rectilinear lens. I have both and can confirm it. Once I got my 11-16 I havnt touched the 14, and I would recommend it over the 12-24 for the f2.8 but even the 12-24 is a big step up from the 14mm
ben_collinsI have been filming for 3 years at 125 and it has always worked. Motion blurs not the problem.
I made this thread to ask about which tokina I should buy and which one is worth it rather than question how I have been filming and my current lens
BumpzNtreesThats true. my bad haha
CameraWizI think it was user error, man. My whole last edit was shot with that 14mm. Everything is sharp and in focus.
ben_collinsNow lets stop talking about the 14mm. Which Tokina should I get, 11-16 or 12-24 if I am on a budget
ben_collinsNow lets stop talking about the 14mm. Which Tokina should I get, 11-16 or 12-24 if I am on a budget
cdipSorry but I have the 14mm and love it. Its 100% you got a bad piece of glass or its user error.
nutz.11-16 if you're on crop for sure.
Also if you have an issue with the 14mm and it isn't sharp and you bough tit from a retailer like b&h or something you can return it and get a new one until you get a sharp copy. I really think that lens isn't anything great though
eheathYeah the rokinon 14mm is notoriously a garbage lens, even worse on full frame for photos, awful distortion, etc.
OP both tokina lenses are great, the 11-16 is nice cause its 2.8 but the 12-24 is nice cause of the range. The difference between 11 and 12 is barely noticeable so not you're losing anything on the wide side. If you're not worried about low light, get the 12-24, if you are worried about low light get the 11-16.
