Marker griffon heel track

Depends whrre they were set when mounted but the marker royals along with the sth tend to have the most adjustment. But don't discount a remount. If you change one size in boot you can often move say just the heels and still have the heel in the middle of the track where it should be.

tomPietrowskiDepends whrre they were set when mounted but the marker royals along with the sth tend to have the most adjustment. But don't discount a remount. If you change one size in boot you can often move say just the heels and still have the heel in the middle of the track where it should be.

It's a matter of 9mm smaller. Realistically it should be fine eh? I'm going into a tight performance boot and ideally I don't really want to put another set of holes in my ski.

soupcanIt's a matter of 9mm smaller. Realistically it should be fine eh? I'm going into a tight performance boot and ideally I don't really want to put another set of holes in my ski.

It's quite a bit but see. Really though you don't want to run them at the extremes of the track so simply adding 4 more holes may be a better option (you won't be able to remount toe and heel) but have a tech look at it and see wha the thinks.

tomPietrowskiIt's quite a bit but see. Really though you don't want to run them at the extremes of the track so simply adding 4 more holes may be a better option (you won't be able to remount toe and heel) but have a tech look at it and see wha the thinks.

Cool thanks Tom!

Markers come off the rails towards the front of the ski so if the binding was set up originally with the heel hardly on the rail then you will have a problem. However if it was wound well back you should be ok to move 9mm up.

It's probably too small a change to remount because the holes will end up too close to the originals.

rozboon.

It's probably too small a change to remount because the holes will end up too close to the originals.

You can get around that by just moving the heel or toe. By only moving one you can move the holes far enough so that they won't interfere

tomPietrowskiYou can get around that by just moving the heel or toe. By only moving one you can move the holes far enough so that they won't interfere

Generally, but if the total move you require is 9mm then you are left with a total of 5.5mm of core material between the edges of the holes, which I personally wouldn't be comfortable with. I suppose you could move it a lot more than 9mm then screw the binding way back along the rail, but the entire discussion is purely academic if OP can safely move the heel on his skis 9mm forward.
Again, personal preference only, but I'd rather have the forward pressure a click or 2 away from perfect than remount. But that's just me.

rozboonGenerally, but if the total move you require is 9mm then you are left with a total of 5.5mm of core material between the edges of the holes, which I personally wouldn't be comfortable with. I suppose you could move it a lot more than 9mm then screw the binding way back along the rail, but the entire discussion is purely academic if OP can safely move the heel on his skis 9mm forward.
Again, personal preference only, but I'd rather have the forward pressure a click or 2 away from perfect than remount. But that's just me.

You are looking for a min distance of 1cm from the center of one hole to the other so with a 9mm jump down you would just mount for the size below ie 1cm. But like you say it depends if it can adjust down he could do that I have just seen too many damaged bindings from people using the extremes and forgetting the binding still needs to move to function. That is why I prefer a remount in most cases. I would rather have 4-5 extra holes and know my bindings are set in the optimal place.