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LemuelIf you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
SammyDubzif you're skiing just park and pipe there is really no need for an 18 din binding.
robert.clarkeiiiyea ended up getting pivot 14's. I did some thinking and i really don't need 18din bindings because id be at the very low range of those and with the 14's I'm right in the middle
LemuelIf you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
SladeSkiJust wanted to clarify something though; being on the lower (or lowest) DIN settings on a binding isn't a bad thing at all.
Enjoy your bindings!
EClay46Don't clarify this for people, this is wrong. Bindings have optimal function when used in the middle of their din range.
SladeSkiThat's actually a very common misconception with no physics-based backing at all. It may seem logical that bindings would work best in the middle of their DIN range but it's not true.
A DIN setting is a DIN setting, which are regulated by the ISO. In a uniform environment, any DIN certified (or even most others which aren't) binding set to a DIN of, let's say 5, will release at approximately the same applied force. By uniform environment I mean boot length is constant, hardness of snow on impact is constant, etc. It does not matter if that DIN setting is the lowest on the binding. In fact, it may actually provide a smoother release due to the fact that the spring is not under the extreme compression that would occur with the binding adjusted to its maximum DIN.
For that reason, what IS true is that setting a binding to its highest/higher DIN setting can sometimes not be a good idea.
SladeSkiThat's actually a very common misconception with no physics-based backing at all. It may seem logical that bindings would work best in the middle of their DIN range but it's not true.
A DIN setting is a DIN setting, which are regulated by the ISO. In a uniform environment, any DIN certified (or even most others which aren't) binding set to a DIN of, let's say 5, will release at approximately the same applied force. By uniform environment I mean boot length is constant, hardness of snow on impact is constant, etc. It does not matter if that DIN setting is the lowest on the binding. In fact, it may actually provide a smoother release due to the fact that the spring is not under the extreme compression that would occur with the binding adjusted to its maximum DIN.
For that reason, what IS true is that setting a binding to its highest/higher DIN setting can sometimes not be a good idea.
LemuelIf you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
THEDIRTYBUBBLEI have pivot 12s, because I see no need for them to be set so high. I usually have them set at 7.
CabbyArrantyou must be a small dude if you only have them set at 7. the lowest my bindings heve ever been is an 8 and now they are at 13
TheWeazthe main problem I have come across about having the binding at the bottom of the range isnt about consistency, its the fact that almost every pivot/fks has tested half to a full din higher than the indicator says, so your setting of 8 at the bottom is really 8.5/9 release value, At least on a new pair. Granted I have also exclusively mounted 14's/12s and on the same machine so it could be calibrated slightly off, or the 18 toe could release more true to its value.
abaerNo, what you are saying is exactly why you should never set your bindings at the highest or the lowest din. I rock nothing but 18din bindings because I ski at a 14-15 which is right in the middle. Test perfectly every time no matter if I use a marker,look, or tyrollia. The spring is not designed with tight enough tolerances to actually work consistently at the extremes of the range.
LemuelIf you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
TheWeazexcept all my testing was done with 14's/12's tested at 7, 8 and 9. each time they consistently, IE very repeatedly released 1/2 to a full din higher than indicated. Only in the toes though, not the heels. This happened for all the modern rossi/ look toes I came across, not just pivots. .
TheWeazexcept all my testing was done with 14's/12's tested at 7, 8 and 9. each time they consistently, IE very repeatedly released 1/2 to a full din higher than indicated. Only in the toes though, not the heels. This happened for all the modern rossi/ look toes I came across, not just pivots.
And yes I had my work checked by many other shop techs, all with far more experience than me and I'm guessing more experience than you unless you happen to be 45 years old and working in shops for 25 years.
