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bensmullenYou need to detune your edges under foot.
teflon66Sorry for the noobish quesiton, but how do you do that and what do you need?
DominatorJacquesIf you watch and LISTEN to my videos in the entirety (no skipping) , then you will know it all pretty much.
That's going to take you a long time, but if you like skiing and want to continue for years the info is invaluable.
You are going to need to search "tuning" and "waxing" at my channel as I have hundreds of videos.
Best to you. We all start from the same place so don't feel bad about asking questions.
Good people will help you out. Don't worry about the haters.
RsimpsonThis happened to me when I just got new skis last year but after awhile my edges got dull and with some PVC it still happens a little when I first get it. Kinda jacking the thread but should I detune my new skis?
teflon66And just one more thing: what is a long bevel? You mentioned it but I don't know what it is.
Swandog7You need to detune your skis. Honestly i don't bevel them because I'm afraid ill mess up and they aren't completely necessary. I usually detune UNDERFOOT 2 INCHES IN FRONT AND BEHIND MY BINDING. I use a: File (metal is preferred), a diamond stone if you got it, and a gummy stone (usually soft, especially if you have a diamond stone, get a hard one if you don't have a diamond stone) and you basically just slide these underfoot on your edges. I wet my diamond stone usually when I use it. There a bunch of videos how to do this online. You can find all of this online at REI.com and its like $12 for the gummy stone, around $20 for a diamond stone, and like $15 for a file but you might have one at your house that works.
DominatorJacquesSwandog, you know some stuff for sure. Now it's time for you to get with the program!
Don't be afraid to bevel your base edges! Shine that crap on about when you hear "don't touch your base edges"! Bla vla bla!
If one is a racer and wants instant engagement that's another story. No matter waht the base edge needs to be burr free. Don't worry about the deep scratches, just smooth out the high spots!
Most here are park skiers.
A park ski works very well with a 2 degree base bevel. One can still carve a solid turn like that, just need to roll it over a bit more and have a sharp edge on the tip and tails for about a third of the length there. Like you say, the under foot part needs to be rounded. That part will not bite. It's a compromise. Either one wants a pure carving ski, or something in-between.
The 2 degree base bevel will allow the ski to be very "playful". In other words it will spin around and not catch an edge. Butters will be easy.
Also the base shape makes a huge difference in how a ski handles. All this has to be flat shit is just that! A playful ski will be more convex (boat shaped). A ski that will not be "playful" and engage fast will be flat and often concave (low sopt) near the tips and tails.
Therefore a killer park ski shoud not be stone ground flat! It should be "long beveled" and then steel scraped to the edges to create a more rounded base shape.
Bla bla bla! Rock on Swandog, and yes, I gave you my vote for MOTM!
teflon66So after hot scraping my skis twice and hot waxing them, after about a day on my backyard setup, the base burn was back.
Also, I keep scraping the rails so badly.
Swandog7Thanks fam! I normally don't because I don't know how and don't feel like figuring it out because I don't have any complaints on how smooth I slide. I don't recommend it to him if he's still looking for videos on how to do it considering he could bevel to hard or do something wrong. If he takes the time to figure it out I'd recommend it for sure, I don't take the time to do it because I'm fine with what i got
DominatorJacquesDo you know what type of base your skis have? Sintered, extruded or some sintruded 50-50 BS?
teflon66I believe they are extruded, though I may be wrong. My skis are Line 2012 Afterbangs, and for the specs for the 2015 Afterbangs, they say that the base is extruded, so I'm assuming that the 2012 ones are as well.
RsimpsonThis happened to me when I just got new skis last year but after awhile my edges got dull and with some PVC it still happens a little when I first get it. Kinda jacking the thread but should I detune my new skis?
DominatorJacquesVery good! An extruded base will not "take up" wax! The wax stays at the surface and goes away real fast. Thus they can burn easy! The burn is just micro hairs. Those can not be removed with a plastic scraper. Wax hold the hairs down, but as soon as the wax wears off, there you go. As you saw in my video you need to do just as the video says, but be advised it's still an extruded base! Either don't wax at all, or you need to wax every day. A rub on wax may be all you need with those. A rub on wax needs to be buffed out really hard as to not leave any waxy build up left on the base. Try Dominator Graphite Zoom wax. It is a rub or iron on wax.
Here is a link to the site. http://www.dominatorwax.com/
Best to you!
DominatorJacquesVery good! An extruded base will not "take up" wax! The wax stays at the surface and goes away real fast. Thus they can burn easy! The burn is just micro hairs. Those can not be removed with a plastic scraper. Wax hold the hairs down, but as soon as the wax wears off, there you go. As you saw in my video you need to do just as the video says, but be advised it's still an extruded base! Either don't wax at all, or you need to wax every day. A rub on wax may be all you need with those. A rub on wax needs to be buffed out really hard as to not leave any waxy build up left on the base. Try Dominator Graphite Zoom wax. It is a rub or iron on wax.
Here is a link to the site. http://www.dominatorwax.com/
Best to you!
maxstra little off topic but how would u dull your blades? Im going to a jail jam this weekend and I just got some new skis and th blades are really sharp. If I slide the rail I will just stop on it. I Just need them to be dull right under the boot/bindings. Any advise?
teflon66Is having an extruded base a disadvantage? Will adding wax make me go faster?
maxstra little off topic but how would u dull your blades? Im going to a jail jam this weekend and I just got some new skis and th blades are really sharp. If I slide the rail I will just stop on it. I Just need them to be dull right under the boot/bindings. Any advise?
teflon66Like Swandog said, I don't wanna try something and mess up my skis. All I want to do is detune under my boots for sliding rails (which doesn't seem too difficult) and remove my base burn.
jackdonovanedges? If by blades you mean edges then you could detune them by taking them to a shop or do it yourself well or sketchily
i learned how to do it well from this vid
https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/782015/How-to-De-tune-Your-Skis-For-The-Park
but I've also heard you can do it with hitting a rock against the edge underfoot, not the best way, and or just using a file
jackdonovanedges? If by blades you mean edges then you could detune them by taking them to a shop or do it yourself well or sketchily
i learned how to do it well from this vid
https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/782015/How-to-De-tune-Your-Skis-For-The-Park
but I've also heard you can do it with hitting a rock against the edge underfoot, not the best way, and or just using a file
DominatorJacquesSeems you answered your own question.
Yes you do, but keep in mind that doing tricks will bring the tips and tails into the mix many times, thus a strong base bevel at least a one degree or better yet a two degree.
Good luck at the contest!
DominatorJacquesHey, that's not a bad explanation and video there.
Important! You need to use fluid with a stones! I saw he had a glass of maybe just water, and that's better than nothing for sure, but he said nothing about that.
Also he did not address a base bevel. Again most skis are going to have a one degree base bevel from the factory.
I give the video good style points although short and basic it gets to the basic theme!
DominatorJacquesDo you know what type of base your skis have? Sintered, extruded or some sintruded 50-50 BS?
teflon66Is there even a point to applying wax to an extruded base?
maxstrWhat do u mean by fluids? Im a noob when It comes to working on skis, sorry.
DominatorJacquesStones clog up. Be it diamond or otherwise. I use a 50-50 mix of water and DENATURED alcohol. That's the ticket. The surface tension of the water is then reduced and the stones don't get so clogged up.
If you watch my "New Ski Tuning and Base Preparation" videos you won't be asking anymore questions. You will be the one answering your friends!
Hey, we all start from the same place when we don't know. That's why I have made the most extensive ski tuning videos on line. That's why they are so frickin'l long!
Go back and read the thread! I made these to help people like you for free!
Rock on!
teflon66If I detune my edges once, will I need to detune them again?
If not, I'm probably just going to bring my skis to a store and have them detune, as there are no detuning materials in stock at the moment.
While I'm at the store, I'll get some wax that doesn't require an iron and ask them if my skis need any further repair.
DominatorJacquesOnce you have done it you only need to smooth the burs that you might get for some reason.
Sounds like you have a good plan of attack now! One step at a time.
Again, Best to you! Pray for snow!
PoikenzJust get a base grind to make everything nice and flat then take a $2 sanding sponge at a 45 to the edge from the toe to the heel of your binding, you only need to do a couple passes. A file or stone is better for finishing or maintaining your edges once they start getting beat, but they are more expensive.
If you are catching towards the end of the rail or before you try to spin, there might be something up with the way you set if that is the only time it happens.
Sintruded or a mix isn't a thing as sintered/ extruded are processes for making the material. The terms are used because the process will define certain characteristics of the material.
DominatorJacquesBonk! No, don't get a base grind to make a park ski flat! That's for racers and carving only. Besides the whole must be absolutely flat deal is pure poppycock!
I have been tuning skis for years. After a stone grind a ski is going to need a TON of work to bring it up to speed again! Peaks need to be scraped smooth with steel. Valleys need to be brushed with stiff stainless. Ski needs to be run over with fiber pads as well during the process.
A park ski is best when it is base high.
And don't tell me about bases. I know all about them my friend. I have been skiing for over 45 frickin' years!
PoikenzBut you were wrong, that is why I told you about bases. I appreciate your techniques, you obviously have experience, but some things you say don't seem to always make a whole lot of sense.
A base grind can be done on any ski, what you going on about? If you, or the shop you bring them to knows what they are doing there will be no problem. I heard you talk poorly of them, but if done correctly it will be fine. You also have to remember that we are talking about park skis, your 1/10th of a second isn't going to matter. A base high ski might sound ideal, but you still need to carve. I'd prefer flat, but to each his own.
Just tell the kid to buy a 10 cent sheet of sandpaper and be done with it (because really it is all you need for a detune to work). No need to be fancy.
steeze_boiyo just take a hand-saw to em
teflon66Thanks for the help, you have really great videos.
Just one more thing, what can be used to smooth burs?
