Question about Rossignol FKS bindings...

ehhh you might be able to make it work by tightening the two bars on the heel piece. Im not sure i would recommend it because then you are messing with your pressures then. Safest thing would probably be a remount but if you take them to a tech they might be able to adjust it for you without remounting.

in my experience going down 5mm works, but say you were going from the 315s to a 320 would not work. i actually went from a 308 to a 301 no problem, but my arms are by no means in the sweet spot. i would take them to a shop and have them do it, but if you dont want to go to a shop you can do it yourself. as for the forward pressure, (ive read both rossignol and look manuals on this) when the boot is in the binding try to twist the dildo and make sure you cant twist it off the boot too easily, but doesnt take a TON of force to the thing to swivel. so in other words A.) it should have a nice clean crisp snap in when the dildo activates, B.) try to twist the heel piece and make sure its not too tight or too lose. also dont solely use the white tab for forward pressure. use it as an indication when your in the right range. people often think this is a precise way to set your forward pressure, but again, use it for getting a general idea not precision

sorry for the rant op

I usually have my FKS/Pivot bindings adjusted at the shop. They're one of the trickier bindings to adjust correctly, where forward pressure is concerned. However, the tech at my shop said that the FKS bindings have about one boot size worth of adjustment range, so five millimeters seems like it would be doable.

other question about fks, 120 vs 140? I just barely fit onto the din range of the 140 but love them, is there any downside to buying 120s as my next binding?

w_skierother question about fks, 120 vs 140? I just barely fit onto the din range of the 140 but love them, is there any downside to buying 120s as my next binding?

140 is a burlier binding, but it's heavier made out of more metal. 120 less metal, not so burly

w_skierother question about fks, 120 vs 140? I just barely fit onto the din range of the 140 but love them, is there any downside to buying 120s as my next binding?

S.J.W140 is a burlier binding, but it's heavier made out of more metal. 120 less metal, not so burly

w_skier are you still growing or are you done? are you still progressing or have you hit your highest point? what din are you currently at? all are factors.

and for the 140s being "more burley" no no no a million times no. theyre exactly the same just different din

"The 120s and 140s are the exact same binding, just different max din.
If you're not skiing at an 11-12 din, then there's no need to get the 140s."

only time you're getting a more burley binding is when you get the 155s or the 180s which both have the metal toe, and then just higher din spring in the heel.

120s and 140s are the same construction, just a different DIN range.

dom.drummondI have some Rossignol FKS bindings fitted to a pair of my skis and I am looking to change boots. My current boots are 315mm and the new boots are 310mm. Will these still be ok without having to remount the bindings?

Any advice would be sweet.

Thanks

You will be fine, if you haven't had the bindings mounted yet tell the tech what you're planning to do and have them mount for the 310mm boot and then you'll be on your desired mount-point when your boots get smaller instead of a couple of mm in front of it.

Off the top of my head an FKS mounted with the bars in the middle of the range should get 5mm either way, I've heard people say 8mm and I can believe it but safer to stick with 5mm.

Alright I'll just get 120s, I may still grow a little but not enough to make a difference