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AeeehMy skis rather quickly turned gray after a few days of riding, I would definitely recommend you well wax them, first soft wax and then wax for the weather. can do it right away, can after a few days of riding, but not after a long time.
Aeeeh* recommend you well wax them...
SFBv420.0if ya want your new skis to be fast hot box em or repeated base prep hot scrape em
then keep em waxed w/ condition dependent wax
dont ski through dirty parking lot snow or fuck up your structure
if you wanna be slow
don't wax em
soupcanLol at people not getting your question. But Ya you should be fine with the factory wax that's the reason they put it on there so the bases don't dry out. I mean it never hurts to throw a storage wax on there but it's not death if you don't.
.lenconThat's exactly what I said in my first post on this thread. I'll second this since you guys have seemed to skip over what I said by accident.
LamafamaMost factory tunes are pretty awful. I always take my skis for a base grind and re do the side and base edges with a proper file and not the machine tune of the factory.
Factory wax isn't great either, a couple of hot scrapes and then some decent wax are what your bases deserve.
theVanThank you guys for all the genuine responses. I have never had a new pair have to sit for this long, which is why I wondered. Also never had a pair that has been already been sitting around for so long. I will let you know why. I live in Utah, and until pretty much this morning, there has been zero reason to mount these...
.lenconAre those OG Args?
LamafamaMost factory tunes are pretty awful. I always take my skis for a base grind and re do the side and base edges with a proper file and not the machine tune of the factory.
Factory wax isn't great either, a couple of hot scrapes and then some decent wax are what your bases deserve.
theVanWell, they are Armada ARG's from the 2011/2012 season, yes. These are the skis in question. Been sitting around for a few years, and when I bought them in September, I removed the shrink wrap. So they have been without hot waxy love for some time. I will mount and ski them, but I am not sure when. I am not about to scratch my babies.
B.QuincyWhat the fuck? Why would you get a base grind before you even ski on the skis......
cobra_commanderBecause I want a different base structure based on the conditions I ski... Or, it didn't come with a structure to begin with.
I 1/2 almost all my skis, and put in an appropriate structure before I ski them. Some skis come with an aggressive and way too deep cross pattern, which can glue your base to the snow in Te wrong conditions. Others come with a very light linear which is not that fast on really wet snow.
B.QuincyWhat the fuck? Why would you get a base grind before you even ski on the skis......
B.QuincyBut wouldnt you want to ride them before doing this....
cobra_commanderNo...
Krotchs_BrotherDon't bother. This kid is all over gear talk and thinks he's an expert on anything ski related. Seen him give bad advice multiple times, while he fronts like he knows what he's talking about.
LamafamaA couple of reasons:
1. To set the base edge correctly. Pretty much all factory tunes are machine tunes and are ok at best. The base edge angle is as vital to set correctly as the side edge.
2. Remove all traces of factory waxing and resins etc.
3. Structure, I like to have a decent structure put on my skis, the local chap in Edinburgh does a very good job of this.
4. All the above save me time and effort in resort when I'm using them.
cobra_commanderNo...
LamafamaStructure is a funny thing, theres a few different types and nobody actually knows the speed difference between them. A structure does help a base hold wax better so having a good structure is key. As for the differences between structures the actual differences are either not totally know or the manufacturers have their own secrets.
rozboonWat?
Aggressive structure for wet snow, minimal structure for extremely dry snow, and a gradient in between.
Structure also has extremely little to do with retention of wax, it's there for retention or dispersal of water, which is what lets skis glide.
Personally I like a linear deep structure for wet snow and a light crosshatch for pow.
It's not some completely non-understood black magic voodoo science, in fact it's quite well understood by most tuners.
Last but not least, for joe bloggs just going out to hack around the mountain, the factory tune is 100% sufficient.