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The Dawn Wall

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Dragonslayer101
Posts: 283 - Karma: 857
With all the media attention of Kevin Jorgenson and Tommy Caldwell things have gotten a little out of hand and a little funny. So climbers of NS, how many of you have been following this attempt? The NY times called it the hardest climb in the world, most climbers disagree with that.

Also, here is a link to an article on their attempt that I found funny: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPg4HuIQt9c
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Jan 8 2015 5:55PM
28 4
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Dobber
Posts: 1698 - Karma: 9,835
I climb into bed if that counts.
Jan 8 2015 5:58PM
2 0
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Dragonslayer101
Posts: 283 - Karma: 857
DobberI climb into bed if that counts.


Only if its a bunk bed
Jan 8 2015 6:06PM
0 2
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Davin
Posts: 669 - Karma: 354
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/7-hilarious-dawn-wall-quotes-mainstream-media
Jan 8 2015 6:16PM
2 0
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mski
Posts: 4791 - Karma: 3,803
Dragonslayer101Only if its a bunk bed


Only if its for top bunk
Jan 8 2015 6:20PM
0 0
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iFlip
Posts: 4544 - Karma: 19,137
I've been following this climb for years, and this current push since before it started. I think Tommy will get it done this time. Not certain if Kevin will manage to free all the pitches, but it was Tommy's climb to begin with. Very psyched to see this happening! And yes, the media has completely bastardized the coverage.
Jan 8 2015 6:31PM
0 0
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Black-Bandanna
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 1,603
iFlipI've been following this climb for years, and this current push since before it started. I think Tommy will get it done this time. Not certain if Kevin will manage to free all the pitches, but it was Tommy's climb to begin with. Very psyched to see this happening! And yes, the media has completely bastardized the coverage.


Same on all points. It should be Tommy to finally free it, he's put so much into it. Pitch 15 is nucking futs.
Jan 8 2015 6:39PM
0 0
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bighomieflock
Posts: 2040 - Karma: 2,445
Dragonslayer101The NY times called it the hardest climb in the world, most climbers disagree with that.


Not sure where your getting this information about "all climbers" but for big wall free climbing its almost objectively the hardest climb of all time.
Jan 8 2015 10:21PM
1 0
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Dragonslayer101
Posts: 283 - Karma: 857
bighomieflockNot sure where your getting this information about "all climbers" but for big wall free climbing its almost objectively the hardest climb of all time.


As far as big wall climbing goes I would not disagree. As a general statement of "worlds hardest climb" it is technically not true. I'm not sure of the exact rating of the crux pitch but I do know it is in the 5.14 range, while there are harder single pitch climbs that are in the 5.15 range.

Its like comparing bouldering to sport climbing. Sure, they are both climbing, but they are separate disciplines
Jan 8 2015 11:01PM
1 0
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bighomieflock
Posts: 2040 - Karma: 2,445
Dragonslayer101As far as big wall climbing goes I would not disagree. As a general statement of "worlds hardest climb" it is technically not true. I'm not sure of the exact rating of the crux pitch but I do know it is in the 5.14 range, while there are harder single pitch climbs that are in the 5.15 range.

Its like comparing bouldering to sport climbing. Sure, they are both climbing, but they are separate disciplines


Oh yeah I agree with you then. Don't know why you would compare bouldering or sport to big wall though. That's kinda like trying to decide between some burly Clayton Vila disaster and a gnar big mountain line.

That said, probably a good amount of 5.15s will be put up before another big wall climb of this magnitude goes down.
Jan 8 2015 11:49PM
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Black-Bandanna
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 1,603
Dragonslayer101he crux pitch


Pitches 14 and 15 are both 14d. Yikes.

bighomieflockThat said, probably a good amount of 5.15s will be put up before another big wall climb of this magnitude goes down.

On a shear difficulty level, a big wall climb of this magnitude has never been done before. If it goes, most (everyone) will consider this the new benchmark.
Jan 9 2015 12:00AM
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Black-Bandanna
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 1,603
Holy shit he's actually going to do it--Tommy sent pitches 19 and 20 last night to reach the Wino Tower, which means the worst is behind him. Kevin will be working on pitch 15 again today.

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747525/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-1

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747526/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-2

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747527/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-3

https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747528/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-4https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747529/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-5https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747528/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-4https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747530/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-6https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747528/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-4https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747531/The-Push-Day-08https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747528/The-Dawn-Wall-Push--Day-4https://www.newschoolers.com/videos/watch/747532/The-Push-Days-09---10
Jan 9 2015 4:25PM
2 0
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Black-Bandanna
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 1,603
Not sure why it cut out half of my text... That's the little docu-series they've been putting out daily. No Day 7 video because it was a rest day.

Tommy's wife's blog is good for breaking info: http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/
Jan 9 2015 4:31PM
0 0
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Black-Bandanna
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 1,603
Jan 9 2015 7:17PM
1 0
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SupremeDeity
Posts: 695 - Karma: 1,112
Carabiniers are cool I guess
Jan 9 2015 7:26PM
1 1
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iLLbiLLy
Posts: 2865 - Karma: 2,631
bighomieflockNot sure where your getting this information about "all climbers" but for big wall free climbing its almost objectively the hardest climb of all time.


This...

And all the people saying that there is no adventure and they shouldn't lay siege to the wall... nothing this hard has ever been done before. Of course its going to be done in a different style. Caldwell is pushing the limits of what can be free climbed and doing it 15 pitches up in the air.

Who the fuck cares if they are on there cellphones during their off days? What else are you going to do while you wait for your skin to regrow from climbing 5.14d.
Jan 9 2015 7:44PM
0 0
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Dragonslayer101
Posts: 283 - Karma: 857
iLLbiLLyThis...

And all the people saying that there is no adventure and they shouldn't lay siege to the wall... nothing this hard has ever been done before. Of course its going to be done in a different style. Caldwell is pushing the limits of what can be free climbed and doing it 15 pitches up in the air.

Who the fuck cares if they are on there cellphones during their off days? What else are you going to do while you wait for your skin to regrow from climbing 5.14d.


The hate on them for the use of their phones is excessive. There is still plenty adventure in their climb, as compared to Harding's or Robbin's valley ascents in the 60's this is much shorter
Jan 9 2015 8:00PM
2 0
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iLLbiLLy
Posts: 2865 - Karma: 2,631
Dragonslayer101The hate on them for the use of their phones is excessive. There is still plenty adventure in their climb, as compared to Harding's or Robbin's valley ascents in the 60's this is much shorter


yea and they were aiding the whole way up. A lot of the hate is because people just don't simply understand how difficult this route is...

7 pitches of 5.13. 7 pitches of 5.14....

I've been climbing consistently for the last 5 year and I can hardly lead 5.11 sport. Trad... my hardest pitch was 5.9+. These guys are insane.


Jan 9 2015 8:39PM
1 0
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iLLbiLLy
Posts: 2865 - Karma: 2,631
I tried to create a scale skiers could relate to. Obviously the difficulty of these tricks could be debated... but you should get an idea of how exponentially harder things get.
Jan 9 2015 8:51PM
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iLLbiLLy
Posts: 2865 - Karma: 2,631
iLLbiLLyI tried to create a scale skiers could relate to. Obviously the difficulty of these tricks could be debated... but you should get an idea of how exponentially harder things get.


and... I guess NS didn't like my formatting... fuck doing that shit again, I just wasted 20 minutes of my life.

Sorry for the trip post
Jan 9 2015 8:52PM
0 0
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paige.
Posts: 1932 - Karma: 924
iLLbiLLy


For some reason I really like your writing. Thanks for the cool ass diagram.
Jan 9 2015 10:24PM
0 0
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Black-Bandanna
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 1,603
paige.For some reason I really like your writing. Thanks for the cool ass diagram.


Not to burt your bubble, but that's Tommy Caldwell's sketch from the 2011 push.

But more importantly, they just summited!!!! The Dawn Wall offiially goes!
Jan 14 2015 6:27PM
2 0
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JDA
Posts: 572 - Karma: 566
On a semi-related note, has anyone seen the trailer for Tommy C and Alex Honnolds Fitzroy ridgeline traverse? The film is going to be epic
Jan 14 2015 7:03PM
3 0
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Rachy
Posts: 4355 - Karma: 2,761
Did anyone else watch the live feed?

that last pitch was super anticlimatic.

I was super hyped... then they get 4 feet from topping out and climb to the right... and that was that.

No cheering at the top... nothing. Just empty rock for 5 minutes. NBC fail.
Jan 14 2015 7:10PM
1 1
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Davin
Posts: 669 - Karma: 354
RachyDid anyone else watch the live feed?

that last pitch was super anticlimatic.

I was super hyped... then they get 4 feet from topping out and climb to the right... and that was that.

No cheering at the top... nothing. Just empty rock for 5 minutes. NBC fail.

It was like that because honestly the celebration happened after knocking off the last 5.14 pitches. 5.12b to them is moderate climbing. Its like wallisch doing a 2 pretz 2. 9/10 times they will send it even when being exhausted. 5.14 on the other hand is elite climbing. I would expect them to cheer a bit but in all honesty they knew they were done a few days ago.
Jan 14 2015 11:12PM
0 0
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malonius_funk
Posts: 2249 - Karma: 1,500
Dragonslayer101The NY times called it the hardest climb in the world, most climbers disagree with that.


The NY Times should have been more specific in that it is "the hardest big wall free climb in the world." I would not disagree with that.
Jan 15 2015 9:18AM
0 0
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Ribss.
Posts: 3442 - Karma: 3,344
Jorgenson is from my hometown, pretty rad.
Jan 16 2015 5:50PM
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