Bindings: The old and the new

For the most part more durable..

I found the peaks had so much toe play after a season, (even with new boots). I feel like they fixed this with the new AAAttack binding.

-SnowSnoli-I found the peaks had so much toe play after a season, (even with new boots). I feel like they fixed this with the new AAAttack binding.

Which Peak model did you have?

I had some older 18-DIN Tyrolias, and I liked them almost as much as my 916s. And I would ski them before I skied an FKS.

Th main reason for the redesign was the horizontal placement of the spring. As for the use of plastic well that is just the same as most bindings these days. Bindings don't need to be metal it's overkill for the vast majourity of people. Using a plastic helps keeps the weight down and will be plenty durable for nearly all skiers.

Caucasian_AsianWhich Peak model did you have?

I had some older 18-DIN Tyrolias, and I liked them almost as much as my 916s. And I would ski them before I skied an FKS.

I had the mojo 15s (same as peak), changed for px18s, got rid of them for jesters, hated them got STH16s, never changing again.

Had hella binding problems over the years, Don't think you can beat the adjustablity salomon offer.

I've been on Deadbolt 18's for about 4-5 years now and never had an issue. My new Jmo's are mounted with Attack 16's, so it will be interesting to compare/see if I notice any kind of a difference.

Ok so it sounds like you guys think its pretty much still durable enough... so for my next question, I bought some Fischer x17s (peak 18 w/17 din) because I shattered my FKS baseplate after skiing under 40 days and maybe 10 of actual throwing down in park due to injury. I had FKS the year before and they were fine but I was also much lighter and less aggressive the year before. I bought the Fischers because they looked amazing and I wanted to give Tyrolia a shot after FKS let me down. I love the full metal binding, but not so much a fan of the pretty large baseplates (mainly the toes).

I have a deal where I can get get the attack 16s for like 170 new, but I don't know if I trust the amount of plastic used. I did ski the 13s last year and they were really sweet, and I loved the natural flex they gave you while still being an average baseplate size, but I didnt do much more than casual park laps for an hour or so. I don't think they will just shatter or anything, but I never thought a guy as small as me would absolutely destroy FKS either.

sparknotes-I want the short baseplate option from the Attack series, but I definitely dont trust the amount of plastic used after FKS let me down.

I would say go for them. Fks are notorious for having durability issues with the baseplate. I would not say don't not trust the binding because it's mainly plastic. As I said above nearly all bindings are plastic these days and they hold up fine.

tomPietrowskiI would say go for them. Fks are notorious for having durability issues with the baseplate. I would not say don't not trust the binding because it's mainly plastic. As I said above nearly all bindings are plastic these days and they hold up fine.

I think I am one of the few poeple who trash bindings. On my old FKS, the toepieces are gashed and have nice big cuts in them from way too many mutes(dangerously deep cuts on the toepiece baseplate), last year I almost only hit rails (again due to injury) and the heelpieces are shot. I don't want to keep dropping money on bindings that should last me more than a year that keep getting beat up. I guess I answered my own question after some help from you guys. I will just stick with the metal over the plastic and see how my season goes. Thanks guys

tomPietrowskiI would say go for them. Fks are notorious for having durability issues with the baseplate. I would not say don't not trust the binding because it's mainly plastic. As I said above nearly all bindings are plastic these days and they hold up fine.

This is the first I'm hearing of "notorious durability issues" with FKS/pivot bindings. I've been rocking the same pair for 5 years or so now of pretty regular park abuse and the baseplates are fine. Everybody knows the brakes suck, but that's a trade off I'm willing to make.

OP, Tyrolia makes a solid binding. I wouldn't be too worried about the durability of them.

Justo8484This is the first I'm hearing of "notorious durability issues" with FKS/pivot bindings. I've been rocking the same pair for 5 years or so now of pretty regular park abuse and the baseplates are fine. Everybody knows the brakes suck, but that's a trade off I'm willing to make.

OP, Tyrolia makes a solid binding. I wouldn't be too worried about the durability of them.

Really? There are a load of threads here about it. Until this yet you even had to send the heels back to Rossi just to get new brakes. They are a good binding but have some wry annoying issues

tomPietrowskiReally? There are a load of threads here about it. Until this yet you even had to send the heels back to Rossi just to get new brakes. They are a good binding but have some wry annoying issues

Its a bitter sweet compromise..

The tight screw pattern and plastic allow the ski to flex naturally, but the binding was originally designed around straight skis and stiff race boards. Noodley twins weren't on the table yet. So you get the best flex but you're over flexing the base plate. Unless it cracks all the way to the white forward pressure tab it's mostly cosmetic.

Other manufactures have spread out the screw patterns to behind the heel and use stiffer bases. They don't crack but create a dead spot in the ski instead.

Don't fix your car at the dealership... There's 30+ years of fks parts out there in shop scrap bins, yard sales and swaps. Screw driver and swap the brakes yourself.

bobsIts a bitter sweet compromise..

The tight screw pattern and plastic allow the ski to flex naturally, but the binding was originally designed around straight skis and stiff race boards. Noodley twins weren't on the table yet. So you get the best flex but you're over flexing the base plate. Unless it cracks all the way to the white forward pressure tab it's mostly cosmetic.

Other manufactures have spread out the screw patterns to behind the heel and use stiffer bases. They don't crack but create a dead spot in the ski instead.

Don't fix your car at the dealership... There's 30+ years of fks parts out there in shop scrap bins, yard sales and swaps. Screw driver and swap the brakes yourself.

Modern bindings such as the sth2 allow the track for the heel to float on the ski so that the dead spot is not so much a problem. Like I say fk still work well but they are just out dated in my opinion and there ease of use is just not up to the same standard of other bindings on the market currently.