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Calling all Climbers and Boulderers

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messplay
Posts: 4483 - Karma: 1,066
Looking to join a gym and get into the sport. What are good shoes to look at and how does the sizing typically fit? What do you recommend for clothing, specific shorts, etc.. I heard Evolv is the way to go for shoes but would like more opinions rather than a shop reps'. No budget here, just want to get an idea of what I'm looking at. Essentials. Thanks
Aug 7 2014 2:06PM
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.MASSHOLE.
Posts: 7472 - Karma: 11,408
Go try stuff shoes on. You do not want them to be super loose or super tight as a beginner. Shoes that are more curled at the toe are more "aggressive" shoes but are less comfortable to spend long periods in.

In regards to clothes, what ever is comfortable worked for me.
Aug 7 2014 2:08PM
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TurquoiseGrizzly
Posts: 1819 - Karma: 13,149
climbing shoes are just like ski boots. They have to be comfortable for YOU. Typically maybe tighter. Same goes for clothing. Wear what's comfortable like hiking shorts and a breathable shirt. Happy to see more people starting to climb and boulder.
Aug 7 2014 2:20PM
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BeeRad
Posts: 206 - Karma: 842
I once bought a pair of climbing shoes that were one size too small, I thought oh well it won't make too much of a difference but boy was I wrong... After climbing for an hour or so my feet hurt sooo bad... Make sure you get a climbing shoe that is 100% comfortable.
Aug 7 2014 2:29PM
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TurquoiseGrizzly
Posts: 1819 - Karma: 13,149
The referenced post has been removed.


This is very true. In order to boulder they need to be tight as well or you are going to slip and fall all over the place. Invest in a crash pad also just in case you haven't.
Aug 7 2014 2:39PM
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fragglemuffin
Posts: 3312 - Karma: 444
The referenced post has been removed.


True, especially for bouldering and face climbing but there is such thing as too tight - check this out: http://www.backcountry.com/explore/are-your-climbing-shoes-too-tight

I've had shoes ranging from "Too painful to even stand up" to "I forgot I was wearing my climbing shoes" and I recently retired my awfully painful Evolv Primes and solely climb in my comfy TC Pros now - yeah, they're no where near as aggressive as the primes but I can still grab tiny micro edges with no problem.

I'd get something not too aggressive, where your toes are hitting the end of shoe, but not curling under. Check out Sportiva Muiras (more aggressive) or Evolv Defy's (less aggressive).
Aug 7 2014 2:54PM
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Dustin.
Posts: 13839 - Karma: 7,704
I'd recommend spending $10 on a pumice stone and small thing for after climbing balm too. Your hands will limit you early on and a bad rip will put you out of enjoyable climbing for about a week. I haven't ripped once since I started taking care of my hands.

As for shoes, I'd get something comfortable. You won't have the experience necessary to realize how useful your feet are for a little while. An aggressive shoe will hurt your wallet, mood, and feet. The evolve VTR something or anothers are great to get started in, you can get them on Promotive or on sale for about $50 and when/if you want to upgrade later they make a good shoe to tear up some more in the gym. They stretch pretty well so they should feel tight initially, but not "I want to kill myself tight".
Aug 7 2014 3:11PM
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cool_name
Posts: 4295 - Karma: 3,131
That will take forever and where are you going to get all the climber's numbers?
Aug 7 2014 3:38PM
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messplay
Posts: 4483 - Karma: 1,066
cool_nameThat will take forever and where are you going to get all the climber's numbers?


wat
Aug 7 2014 4:09PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Yea get like some 5.10 shoes or something shitty to begin with, but once you start climbing you'll never want to wear anything but la sportiva.
Start with bouldering, buy a chalk bag and shoes. If you like it after a bit maybe start investing in a harness and a belay device. A lot of gyms will include a intro to climbing class for interested people like you, in their membership, which should teach you belaying basics at the very least.
Hope you enjoy the sport man, its a fun one.
Aug 7 2014 4:15PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
BeeRadI once bought a pair of climbing shoes that were one size too small, I thought oh well it won't make too much of a difference but boy was I wrong... After climbing for an hour or so my feet hurt sooo bad... Make sure you get a climbing shoe that is 100% comfortable.


Very true for beginners but but with the tighter shoe you are able to use the tiniest edges at feet holds, I've recently sized down from a size 11 la sportiva muira lace up, to a size 8 muira VS and the ability to stick minuscule foot jibs on horizontal or overhang is ridiculous. Also you always want your shoes to be a little tight when you first buy them, most climbing will stretch at least a size once broken in!
Aug 7 2014 4:20PM
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Calb3rt
Posts: 6005 - Karma: 2,203
there are a lot of good shoes for climbing. it is kind of like skiing where everyone has different feet so everyone will have a slightly different view on which companies fit best. a lot of people will say downsize one or 2 sizes from your street show to find your climbing shoe size. my last pair i picked up was the Scarpa instincts which are a slip on and i have really really liked them, super aggressive downturn. i think i only downsized by one shoe size on them because i have really wide feet and if i downsize too much i blow out the sides really easy. one of the guys i climb with downsizes at least 2 sizes, but it is obviously excruciating for him during the break in process. Evolv, La Sportiva, Scarpa, five.10 make some quality climbing shoes. mad rock if you are looking for something more entry level but, in my experience, they fall apart pretty easily. And as ElGato said, you might be better off spending a little more on a more quality pair of shoes and get used to those.
Black Diamond makes some decent climbing harnesses that wont hurt your wallet. the BD Momentum harnesses are good entry/gym harnesses. just try a few different ones on and find what fits most comfortably. I cant really recommend any specific shorts though or anything. shoes and a harness, maybe a chalk bag? i use an old money bag from a bank, or crown royal bags work too. to generalize climbing, if it is uncomfortable, then odds are you are doing it correctly... not with everything but a lot.
Aug 7 2014 4:21PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Sorry for trip post, but also, as a climber this site will become your best friend, http://www.mountainproject.com
Check out the forums too, the For Sale/ Wanted forum always has ridiculous deals, so if you want cheap quality gear, that is the place.
Aug 7 2014 4:24PM
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messplay
Posts: 4483 - Karma: 1,066
Calb3rtthere are a lot of good shoes for climbing. it is kind of like skiing where everyone has different feet so everyone will have a slightly different view on which companies fit best. a lot of people will say downsize one or 2 sizes from your street show to find your climbing shoe size. my last pair i picked up was the Scarpa instincts which are a slip on and i have really really liked them, super aggressive downturn. i think i only downsized by one shoe size on them because i have really wide feet and if i downsize too much i blow out the sides really easy. one of the guys i climb with downsizes at least 2 sizes, but it is obviously excruciating for him during the break in process. Evolv, La Sportiva, Scarpa, five.10 make some quality climbing shoes. mad rock if you are looking for something more entry level but, in my experience, they fall apart pretty easily. And as ElGato said, you might be better off spending a little more on a more quality pair of shoes and get used to those.
Black Diamond makes some decent climbing harnesses that wont hurt your wallet. the BD Momentum harnesses are good entry/gym harnesses. just try a few different ones on and find what fits most comfortably. I cant really recommend any specific shorts though or anything. shoes and a harness, maybe a chalk bag? i use an old money bag from a bank, or crown royal bags work too. to generalize climbing, if it is uncomfortable, then odds are you are doing it correctly... not with everything but a lot.


Awesome, thanks for the info. my father is a big time mountaineer so I'm covered on harnesses, ropes, carabiners, etc. but that's way down the road if I get into actual climbing outdoors. I know how to belay as well and some gyms I've been too have self belaying devices so it's fine if I go solo. La Sportiva and Evolv are what I've tried on so far.
Aug 7 2014 4:37PM
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cool_name
Posts: 4295 - Karma: 3,131
messplaywat


he said calling all climbers and boulderers, i was simply informing him it will take a long time to call of them and was questioning how he was going to get all there phone numbers as well
Aug 7 2014 7:27PM
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iFlip
Posts: 4543 - Karma: 19,132
I climb a lot. I used to climb 100+ days per year (all outside, no gym) before real life caught up to me. I still climb a tremendous amount of rock and ice each year.

Evolvs are not really "the way to go." They can be decent but they tend to have inferior rubber and just be second-rate shoes. The Pontas are the stand-out shoe in their line. That said, it is impossible to recommend a shoe over the Internet. Everyone fits different shoes differently. The two top companies are 5.10 and La Sportiva. They have different fits and climbers typically have either a "5.10 foot" or a "La Sportiva foot." I have a 5.10 foot and La Sportivas are tremendously uncomfortable on me. I do wear La Sportiva ice climbing boots and they are perfect.

5.10 is generally regarded as having the best/stickiest rubber. Just getting into climbing, what shoe you wear will make little to no difference. Climbing shoes are very, very expensive. You may want to see if you actually like the sport before dropping $150 on a pair of shoes. All gyms will rent shoes and harnesses very cheaply. Do NOT buy shoes online without trying them on first. Even within one company, different model shoes will fit differently. You can shop for pretty much everything else online but climbing shoes need to be tried on. They're the same as ski boots in that regard. Also, keep in mind that leather shoes such as La Sportiva Mythos will stretch quite a bit over time and synthetic shoes will stay more or less true to original fit.

All the above said, if you are going to ignore my advice, you can't go wrong with 5.10 Anasazis or La Sportiva Miuras.
Aug 8 2014 12:58AM
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Bart.Man
Posts: 1742 - Karma: 1,952
Jeebus.Sorry for trip post, but also, as a climber this site will become your best friend, http://www.mountainproject.com
Check out the forums too, the For Sale/ Wanted forum always has ridiculous deals, so if you want cheap quality gear, that is the place.



Did you see the news about the Cobra? Sad day in Utah and for climbers in general.

Clothing is unimportant as long as it allows for motion, particularly in the legs. Unless you'll be out for long trips, then no cotton. Also, buddy up with someone who knows the ins and outs. Find a "mentor" of sorts. That way they'll have all the big gear (ropes, hardware, etc.) and you'll learn hoe to enjoy it safely.
Aug 8 2014 4:26AM
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Davin
Posts: 669 - Karma: 354
I think the number one thing about being new to climbing is watch others and talk to everyone at the gym. Don't be intimidated about your skill or strengths when talking to someone. Everyone there is stoked on climbing so get to know everyone! That is the #1 thing that happens at my gym. We have Buy one Get one nights and all the new climbers just trying it out get intimidated by the ripped people pulling plastic.

Other than that learn your body and what works for you! La Sportiva, 5.10, Scarpa, and Evolv are all great. For a first shoe La Sportiva just came out with a shoe called the OXYGYM which is fully washable and a great gym shoe. If it fits I'd recommend it.

Good luck climbing and send hard!

P.S where you located?
Aug 8 2014 4:50PM
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messplay
Posts: 4483 - Karma: 1,066
DavinI think the number one thing about being new to climbing is watch others and talk to everyone at the gym. Don't be intimidated about your skill or strengths when talking to someone. Everyone there is stoked on climbing so get to know everyone! That is the #1 thing that happens at my gym. We have Buy one Get one nights and all the new climbers just trying it out get intimidated by the ripped people pulling plastic.

Other than that learn your body and what works for you! La Sportiva, 5.10, Scarpa, and Evolv are all great. For a first shoe La Sportiva just came out with a shoe called the OXYGYM which is fully washable and a great gym shoe. If it fits I'd recommend it.

Good luck climbing and send hard!

P.S where you located?


Went to school in Boulder which would've been ideal. Now I'm located in Los Angeles...Orange County to be exact.
Aug 8 2014 5:01PM
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iFlip
Posts: 4543 - Karma: 19,132
messplayWent to school in Boulder which would've been ideal. Now I'm located in Los Angeles...Orange County to be exact.


Boulder is ideal but LA is excellent. You're close to Joshua Tree, Tahquitz & Suicide, lots of stuff up toward Big Bear (Castle Rock, Holcolm Valley Pinnacles, Keller Peak, etc, etc), the Riverside Quarry, and plenty more. You're also within striking distance of Yosemite, the Needles, and plenty of other places such as Tollhouse, Lover's Leap, and many more. LA also has the advantage of having climbing available to you year-round. If it is winter, head to Joshua Tree. If it is summer, head up toward Big Bear. In the spring and fall, head just about anywhere. In many ways, LA is a perfect place to be a climber. I've climbed almost all the places I listed, plus lots more in CA. Feel free to PM me if you need beta on any specific locations.
Aug 8 2014 5:48PM
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Big5hifty
Posts: 3243 - Karma: 1,253
Get to know the people at your local shop. They'll help you get properly fitting gear, tell you about good places to go, and maybe even teach you some things.

As an avid climber, there are always people that will know more than you don't be afraid to ask for advice. And always be as safe as the sport allows for.
Aug 8 2014 10:29PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Bart.ManDid you see the news about the Cobra? Sad day in Utah and for climbers in general.

Clothing is unimportant as long as it allows for motion, particularly in the legs. Unless you'll be out for long trips, then no cotton. Also, buddy up with someone who knows the ins and outs. Find a "mentor" of sorts. That way they'll have all the big gear (ropes, hardware, etc.) and you'll learn hoe to enjoy it safely.


I did, I'm glad i witnessed alex honnold free soloing it, while i watched from the belay of the third pitch on Stolen Chimney Ancient Art when i went out there in april before it tumbled!
Aug 10 2014 9:26PM
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Bart.Man
Posts: 1742 - Karma: 1,952
Jeebus.I did, I'm glad i witnessed alex honnold free soloing it, while i watched from the belay of the third pitch on Stolen Chimney Ancient Art when i went out there in april before it tumbled!


Yeah, man. We were right by it and scoped it out, but pussed out because none of us felt good enouh to lead it. At least we got to bask in its awesome shadow. We also didn't get to try ancient art because the group of, like, 18 in front of us was moving at the same rate the sandstone was eroding. Motivation to go back, though.
Sep 1 2014 1:41AM
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freestyler540
Posts: 13082 - Karma: 18,715
I say invest in good climbing shoes. Just hang out in the bouldering gym to get the feel for it. when you gain an interest in climbing longer routes, you can borrow a harness and use their gear.

It takes time to get into climbing, it may be fustrating at first, but get to know the frequent users and will help you push harder.

I call climbing a cheap sport. Although starting can be expensive, small investments can be made to advance your performance. The gear has a shelf life of 10 years so once you got it, its there for a while. Here is a quick list on how expensive climbing really is.

good shoes: 80$-130$
Harness: 35$-90$
Belay device: 15$-30$, although they can run up to 100$
Chalk bag and chalk: 20$ for a bag, 5$ a cube for chalk
Gym membership: 75$-100$month
When you climb outdoors you will need:
Helmet: 60$-150$
Rope: 120$-250$
Anchor gear: 2 or 4 screw lock biners 20$-30$ each, 2 regular biners: 10-25$ each
Sling: .75$/meter

When you start to push climbing:
Quickdraws: 30$-60$ per draw (minimum 6)
Extra carabiners of all sizes both straight gate, curved and screw lock.
Tape:10$

When you start traditional climbing:
Rack of nuts: 100$-170$ kit of 10 nuts. there are small sizes, medium and large range...so you need 3
Rack of cams: 60-100$ each, 8 can be considered a rack.
De-nutter tool: 40$
at least 12 draws, 4 long sling draws, slings and more biners!
Extra shoes: 120$-160$ for crack climbing
Not mention the trips you are going to take.
Sep 1 2014 1:15PM
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Dragonslayer101
Posts: 283 - Karma: 857
freestyler540The gear has a shelf life of 10 years so once you got it, its there for a while. Here is a quick list on how expensive climbing really is.


I wouldn't say 10 years, I've blown through carabiners in a season and harness's in a season and a half, shoes in a month (Evolv ecoTrax is garbage), and ropes depending on how hard you climb on it. Its the same with any sport though if you climb a lot (like really a lot) you will go through gear and have to replace when its not deemed safe
Sep 1 2014 1:40PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Bart.ManYeah, man. We were right by it and scoped it out, but pussed out because none of us felt good enouh to lead it. At least we got to bask in its awesome shadow. We also didn't get to try ancient art because the group of, like, 18 in front of us was moving at the same rate the sandstone was eroding. Motivation to go back, though.


fuccck dude, gotta go on a weekday, i went on a saturday morning and still paid the price, we waited at the 3rd belay for an hour + with like 10 people on that little 5 by 5 ledge. Was worth it though, i recommend bringing two 70m ropes so that you can tie em together an rap down from the 3rd belay in one pitch.
Sep 1 2014 1:47PM
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profa_212
Posts: 8877 - Karma: 35,652
freestyler540I say invest in good climbing shoes. Just hang out in the bouldering gym to get the feel for it. when you gain an interest in climbing longer routes, you can borrow a harness and use their gear.

It takes time to get into climbing, it may be fustrating at first, but get to know the frequent users and will help you push harder.

I call climbing a cheap sport. Although starting can be expensive, small investments can be made to advance your performance. The gear has a shelf life of 10 years so once you got it, its there for a while. Here is a quick list on how expensive climbing really is.

good shoes: 80$-130$
Harness: 35$-90$
Belay device: 15$-30$, although they can run up to 100$
Chalk bag and chalk: 20$ for a bag, 5$ a cube for chalk
Gym membership: 75$-100$month
When you climb outdoors you will need:
Helmet: 60$-150$
Rope: 120$-250$
Anchor gear: 2 or 4 screw lock biners 20$-30$ each, 2 regular biners: 10-25$ each
Sling: .75$/meter

When you start to push climbing:
Quickdraws: 30$-60$ per draw (minimum 6)
Extra carabiners of all sizes both straight gate, curved and screw lock.
Tape:10$

When you start traditional climbing:
Rack of nuts: 100$-170$ kit of 10 nuts. there are small sizes, medium and large range...so you need 3
Rack of cams: 60-100$ each, 8 can be considered a rack.
De-nutter tool: 40$
at least 12 draws, 4 long sling draws, slings and more biners!
Extra shoes: 120$-160$ for crack climbing
Not mention the trips you are going to take.


These prices are rather expensive. 20-30$ for a locking biner? Maybe for like a magnetron. Also quickdraws can be found for much cheaper than 30-60$ a draw. Like around 10-20$, unless you are looking for the best of the best, which is unneeded.

These prices are a little inflated, but it is a decent guide on all the stuff you need.
Just like in skiing, search for sales. Buying stuff full price is dumb
Sep 1 2014 1:49PM
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Bart.Man
Posts: 1742 - Karma: 1,952
Jeebus.fuccck dude, gotta go on a weekday, i went on a saturday morning and still paid the price, we waited at the 3rd belay for an hour + with like 10 people on that little 5 by 5 ledge. Was worth it though, i recommend bringing two 70m ropes so that you can tie em together an rap down from the 3rd belay in one pitch.


That's the mind fuck, man. We were there on like a Tuesday or Wednesday. The twin lines would save some time for sure. Dude, when are we climbing together?!
Sep 1 2014 1:51PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Whenever i get a chance to check out fort loose
Sep 1 2014 1:56PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Bart.ManThat's the mind fuck, man. We were there on like a Tuesday or Wednesday. The twin lines would save some time for sure. Dude, when are we climbing together?!


Jeebus.Whenever i get a chance to check out fort loose


meant to quote, but hopefully soon!! be meaning to get out that a ways for a minute
Sep 1 2014 1:58PM
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Bart.Man
Posts: 1742 - Karma: 1,952
Jeebus.Whenever i get a chance to check out fort loose


It is quite loose... The ladies, that is. The rumor is SFB is here now, so we can ass kick together. Kick ass and climb. Oh, and the place I'm living in now has a bouldering cave. S'pretty gnarly.
Sep 1 2014 1:59PM
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Jeebus.
Posts: 4904 - Karma: 5,822
Bart.ManIt is quite loose... The ladies, that is. The rumor is SFB is here now, so we can ass kick together. Kick ass and climb. Oh, and the place I'm living in now has a bouldering cave. S'pretty gnarly.


haha wot thats wicked sick!!
Sep 1 2014 2:05PM
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Bart.Man
Posts: 1742 - Karma: 1,952
freestyler540I say invest in good climbing shoes. Just hang out in the bouldering gym to get the feel for it. when you gain an interest in climbing longer routes, you can borrow a harness and use their gear.

It takes time to get into climbing, it may be fustrating at first, but get to know the frequent users and will help you push harder.

I call climbing a cheap sport. Although starting can be expensive, small investments can be made to advance your performance. The gear has a shelf life of 10 years so once you got it, its there for a while. Here is a quick list on how expensive climbing really is.

good shoes: 80$-130$
Harness: 35$-90$
Belay device: 15$-30$, although they can run up to 100$
Chalk bag and chalk: 20$ for a bag, 5$ a cube for chalk
Gym membership: 75$-100$month
When you climb outdoors you will need:
Helmet: 60$-150$
Rope: 120$-250$
Anchor gear: 2 or 4 screw lock biners 20$-30$ each, 2 regular biners: 10-25$ each
Sling: .75$/meter

When you start to push climbing:
Quickdraws: 30$-60$ per draw (minimum 6)
Extra carabiners of all sizes both straight gate, curved and screw lock.
Tape:10$

When you start traditional climbing:
Rack of nuts: 100$-170$ kit of 10 nuts. there are small sizes, medium and large range...so you need 3
Rack of cams: 60-100$ each, 8 can be considered a rack.
De-nutter tool: 40$
at least 12 draws, 4 long sling draws, slings and more biners!
Extra shoes: 120$-160$ for crack climbing
Not mention the trips you are going to take.

Where are you getting these numbers? Are you buying all your shit on the black market or importing it from North Korea, because that's the only reason I can imagine your prices would be so outrageous. $30 for a locker? $30 a low end for one draw? Webbing/sling material is literally 8¢ a foot... that's 24¢ a meter. What the FUCK kind of nut tool are you using that cost you $40?! Even more confusing, some of your prices are somewhat accurate.

You also don't need to go out and buy your own complete rack/rope right of. In fact, I'd say that's pretty ill-advised. Find someone who knows the craft and buddy up with them. You get to use their gear while you learn, and you get to learn from a knowledgeable person. I've only recently started building a personal rack fer a couple years of climbing, and even then it consist of a rope and like... 8 draws on top of the necessities.

Similarly, you don't need a membership at a gym. Find a local crag or bouldering area and practice on what you're actually going to be climbing on- rock.
Sep 1 2014 2:24PM
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Bart.Man
Posts: 1742 - Karma: 1,952
Jeebus.meant to quote, but hopefully soon!! be meaning to get out that a ways for a minute


Dude, at that point we might as well just head to Indian Creek... Only like, 3 hrs out from here.
Sep 1 2014 2:26PM
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