Official mountain biking thread

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ThaLoraxI mean, I've been mtn biking for 15 years and had my brakes fail many times. I'd much rather have only the braking power of the front and risk the "screw up" (as you call it) than not be able to stop in time because my bike did nothing but skid over a long distance from using only a rear brake.

Since you brought up the past, 15 years ago I was working in my first bike shop, during that same time I purchased my first bike with suspension. I was riding rigid steel bikes before that.

I also did not say "screw up", I said "one wrong squeeze with the front can easily cause a wreck, while the same isn't necessarily true for the rear."

My ultimate point is, assuming an emergency pull of either the front or rear brake (your opinion vs. mine in this case if you will) there is a much higher likelihood of a crash if your weight is not balanced correctly, your bars are turned, you are on loose terrain/gravel, etc. on your front brake.

Locking up the rear tire will cause a skid, yes I get that. However, it is also easier to correct the skid, or get back in control with loss of rear tire traction than the front, especially when a strong braking force is introduced to the front wheel. Again, from a safety's sake point of view, I'm going with a rear brake.

I'm not assuming anything regarding your skill, or anyone else's for that matter, merely your own opinion on this braking situation. Riding along a gravel road and grabbing the front brake to avoid a dog would probably cause a lot of people to crash, while grabbing the rear brake would at least give them more time to maneuver or correct. That's it.

I had never had to ride out all downhill without a rear brake before, so first time for me there. In hindsight I would have been better off swapping my only functioning rotor to my rear brake for the descent. Loose sand and dust on the hardpacked dirt and rocks was tricky in spots with just the front brake, but nothing extraordinary. I would've been far more comfortable and riding faster if I was just rocking the rear brake.

Sep 5 2014 5:03PM

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b-kul

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i would agree, if i had to use only one brake it would be the rear. at least in that case if you over cooked a turn you could grab a handful of rear and probably save your self. do the same with a front and you are going otb. front brakes allow you to ride fast but stay in control in conjunction with a rear brake. you would have to ride like a granny but rear only would be the safer option.

Sep 5 2014 7:31PM

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+1 for the rear brake. I might be biased though because the bike I ride around at work only has a coaster brake. On the brake note, what levers control what brake for you guys? I never realized that some geographical locations have different standard setups. Personally my bike controls is left lever to the front brake, right lever to the rear brake.

Anyone here running tubeless as well? When my fat bike gets here I'll probably run it tubeless to save some rotating mass; thinking of buying an Orange Seal or Bontrager TLR kit. Stan's is popular but I've heard better of Orange Seal's and Bontrager's products.

Sep 5 2014 8:37PM

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NinetyFour+1 for the rear brake. I might be biased though because the bike I ride around at work only has a coaster brake. On the brake note, what levers control what brake for you guys? I never realized that some geographical locations have different standard setups. Personally my bike controls is left lever to the front brake, right lever to the rear brake.

Anyone here running tubeless as well? When my fat bike gets here I'll probably run it tubeless to save some rotating mass; thinking of buying an Orange Seal or Bontrager TLR kit. Stan's is popular but I've heard better of Orange Seal's and Bontrager's products.

Left: Front
Right: Rear

The only people I've seen switch up their levers are guys that grew up riding and racing dirt bikes and motorcycles.

You went with the Farley 8 correct? If so, what's the lead time on that and did you pay MSRP or were you able to score a deal?

My local shop said the Farley's weren't even inbound to them as it was so hard to get orders in. They just got a Spec Fatboy Expert in after waiting a long ass time apparently. It was so fun to pedal around, even if it was just on the sidewalk/parking lot. Much lighter than I expected it to be as well, was right around 30-31lbs for the Large I guess. Want fatbike so much.

Sep 5 2014 8:44PM

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b-kul

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left-front, right-rear. like bell said mostly only ex moto guys do it reverse.

Sep 5 2014 8:47PM

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division.bellYou went with the Farley 8 correct? If so, what's the lead time on that and did you pay MSRP or were you able to score a deal?

My local shop said the Farley's weren't even inbound to them as it was so hard to get orders in. They just got a Spec Fatboy Expert in after waiting a long ass time apparently. It was so fun to pedal around, even if it was just on the sidewalk/parking lot. Much lighter than I expected it to be as well, was right around 30-31lbs for the Large I guess. Want fatbike so much.

Yeah I ordered a 17.5" Farley 8. I have some family that works at the LBS and I've been a fairly long time customer, so I was able to get one for about $2800 CDN. The stock CDN price for a Farley 8 is coming in at $3600 which is silly because it's not even close to the matching the change rate compared to the $3000 U.S. price. I feel bad for people who might be eyeing one up that don't have previous dealings with the LBS.

It's supposed to be a month out, but because it's the bike industry I'd double or triple that number... As long as I get it before 2015 I'll be pretty happy, if not, then oh well.

I looked at building up a salsa Beargrease 2 or a Mukluk, but that would have been way outside of my price range. The LBS is pretty firm on component pricing, so by the time I got a frame, Rockshox Bluto, Sram X1, and a wheelset I'm sitting around the price of what I paid to get all of that and more on a pre-built. Not the coolest, but the most logical.

Sep 5 2014 9:16PM

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steezburgereddieNS

On the topic of NS bikes here's my buddy on his NS Soda Slope.

http://vimeo.com/53527567

That's Newschooler's member **Steeze*Whiz**. He was on flow for NS/Lama for awhile I believe. Still buddies with them I believe. He kills it so hard. I feel kind of bad for him, because he has an unreal backyard setup, even has a chip pit for practicing, and noone to ride it with him. Admittedly I just don't have the balls to ride DJ.

Sep 5 2014 9:37PM

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.MASSHOLE.This guy is a riot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2PMLGABvaU#!

Terrifyingly similar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UowkIRSDHfs

Sep 6 2014 1:15AM

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NinetyFourYeah I ordered a 17.5" Farley 8. I have some family that works at the LBS and I've been a fairly long time customer, so I was able to get one for about $2800 CDN. The stock CDN price for a Farley 8 is coming in at $3600 which is silly because it's not even close to the matching the change rate compared to the $3000 U.S. price. I feel bad for people who might be eyeing one up that don't have previous dealings with the LBS.

It's supposed to be a month out, but because it's the bike industry I'd double or triple that number... As long as I get it before 2015 I'll be pretty happy, if not, then oh well.

I looked at building up a salsa Beargrease 2 or a Mukluk, but that would have been way outside of my price range. The LBS is pretty firm on component pricing, so by the time I got a frame, Rockshox Bluto, Sram X1, and a wheelset I'm sitting around the price of what I paid to get all of that and more on a pre-built. Not the coolest, but the most logical.

Fuck yeah. That bike looks like so much fun. I was hoping to see a Farley when I stopped by my LBS this morning, but no such luck. I don't really want to spend that much on a fatbike anyways, as I'd end up buying two; one for the wife, and one for me. But buying complete is definitely the way to go. I'd only swap out the brakes on that Farley 8 (personally not a fan of Avid's disc brake offerings), otherwise that's a solid build for what you paid. Hopefully the lead times aren't too horrible and you can get that thing rolling soon.

Most of the fatbikes I've been looking at have strange component specs though. The Fatboy Expert I rode today had an XO rear derailleur with low end grip shift shifters. Strange combination that's not necessary, and not worth the financial upcharge. Why grip shift anyways?

A 1x11 drivetrain has been the best upgrade I've had for bike gear. Absolutely loving every aspect of it. Having 3 different chainrings makes everything I ride possible with a quick swap the night before. Not enough fatbikes are coming with the 1x11 so that makes decisions hard. And I'm not looking for a Bluto/suspension fork in the near future. Not a necessity in my mind for my fatbike right now. If only there was a Farley 7 with the same drivetrain as the 8, but losing the Bluto and saving some money.

Sep 6 2014 2:08AM

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@th1337

division.bellSince you brought up the past, 15 years ago I was working in my first bike shop, during that same time I purchased my first bike with suspension. I was riding rigid steel bikes before that.

I also did not say "screw up", I said "one wrong squeeze with the front can easily cause a wreck, while the same isn't necessarily true for the rear."

My ultimate point is, assuming an emergency pull of either the front or rear brake (your opinion vs. mine in this case if you will) there is a much higher likelihood of a crash if your weight is not balanced correctly, your bars are turned, you are on loose terrain/gravel, etc. on your front brake.

Locking up the rear tire will cause a skid, yes I get that. However, it is also easier to correct the skid, or get back in control with loss of rear tire traction than the front, especially when a strong braking force is introduced to the front wheel. Again, from a safety's sake point of view, I'm going with a rear brake.

I'm not assuming anything regarding your skill, or anyone else's for that matter, merely your own opinion on this braking situation. Riding along a gravel road and grabbing the front brake to avoid a dog would probably cause a lot of people to crash, while grabbing the rear brake would at least give them more time to maneuver or correct. That's it.

I had never had to ride out all downhill without a rear brake before, so first time for me there. In hindsight I would have been better off swapping my only functioning rotor to my rear brake for the descent. Loose sand and dust on the hardpacked dirt and rocks was tricky in spots with just the front brake, but nothing extraordinary. I would've been far more comfortable and riding faster if I was just rocking the rear brake.

I see your point but it still hinges (pun intended) on the individual rider's capability to properly pull their brake lever vs. accidentally pulling it too hard. It's a learned skill in which the risk is fastly reduced if you are practiced at the skills. I ride a lot of techical trails with steep, rooted/rocky areas and lots of trees that would love to crush my collar bone. In those situations, where I'm weaving in between trees and/or trying to get behind my back wheel on a steep section so gravity doesn't throw me over the handle bars, I'd be damned if i only had my rear brake working. The dangers of skidding your way through those types of situations outweighs the danger of maybe accidentally pulling your front brake leaver too hard.

Now, if I'm flying down a fire road with lots of loose gravel and have to slam on the brakes, ya, a rear only brake situation would be much "safer".

Anyways, no need to debate the meneucia of braking safety. I'm stoked to go ride Annadel State Park tomorrow. Some of the best legal singletrack in northern California.

Sep 6 2014 2:34AM

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ThaLoraxI see your point but it still hinges (pun intended) on the individual rider's capability to properly pull their brake lever vs. accidentally pulling it too hard. It's a learned skill in which the risk is fastly reduced if you are practiced at the skills. I ride a lot of techical trails with steep, rooted/rocky areas and lots of trees that would love to crush my collar bone. In those situations, where I'm weaving in between trees and/or trying to get behind my back wheel on a steep section so gravity doesn't throw me over the handle bars, I'd be damned if i only had my rear brake working. The dangers of skidding your way through those types of situations outweighs the danger of maybe accidentally pulling your front brake leaver too hard.

Now, if I'm flying down a fire road with lots of loose gravel and have to slam on the brakes, ya, a rear only brake situation would be much "safer".

Anyways, no need to debate the meneucia of braking safety. I'm stoked to go ride Annadel State Park tomorrow. Some of the best legal singletrack in northern California.

Damn, I didn't realize you were such a pro. After this post can I get your autograph or something?

Living here in the PNW, you're not the only one with "technical trails with steep, rooted/rocky areas and lots of trees that would love to crush my collar bone." So I'm not sure what you're trying to prove there.

The thing is though, if "It's a learned skill in which the risk is fastly reduced if you are practiced at the skills" then don't you think you'd be able to use your rear brake without skidding or losing control...?

You spew some meaningless bullshit and at the end say "no need to debate." I'm done.

Sep 6 2014 3:00AM

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division.bellDamn, I didn't realize you were such a pro. After this post can I get your autograph or something?

Living here in the PNW, you're not the only one with "technical trails with steep, rooted/rocky areas and lots of trees that would love to crush my collar bone." So I'm not sure what you're trying to prove there.

The thing is though, if "It's a learned skill in which the risk is fastly reduced if you are practiced at the skills" then don't you think you'd be able to use your rear brake without skidding or losing control...?

You spew some meaningless bullshit and at the end say "no need to debate." I'm done.

Bahaha, that's how you interpreted my post? You got aggro at my sarcastic writing style? Chill out. I'm not trying to prove superiority or a higher skill level. Anyone on this site who knows me in real life knows thats the last thing i do. I was simply providing examples of when i have, through experience, found it safer to use my front brake instead of the rear. The fact that you took offense to my post is both ridiculous and hilarious. Sounds like you need to go on a ride to get some of that frustration out.

Sep 6 2014 3:27AM

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XtRemE11

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anybody here ride a rigid? for some reason its really appealing to me, ive already got a 6" bike thats awesome on anything rough and downhill.

I just think it'd be cool to have a somewhat slack, short rear end, aggressive geo rigid 29er singlespeed to ride on the smoother XC trails but still be able to jump and fuck around on.

Sep 7 2014 1:40PM

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cwillygood

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Gotta love biking

From shifter for front derailer breaks, buy new one, while setting it up realize from derailer is also broken.

Why does 1x11 have to be a grand :(

Sep 7 2014 3:48PM

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tac0.slayer

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*cgski*Gotta love biking

From shifter for front derailer breaks, buy new one, while setting it up realize from derailer is also broken.

Why does 1x11 have to be a grand :(

Or.... you can go the 1x10 route and spend less then three hundred
big boys.

11-36 tooth XT cassette (or SLx)

Zee 10 speed clutch wide range rear mech

30, 32, or 34 Narrow wide chaining (Raceface, Blackspire, Hope, ect)

40 or 42 tooth extender cog if you feel the need for a granny.

Sep 7 2014 5:01PM

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JuliusJ

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XtRemE11anybody here ride a rigid? for some reason its really appealing to me, ive already got a 6" bike thats awesome on anything rough and downhill.

I just think it'd be cool to have a somewhat slack, short rear end, aggressive geo rigid 29er singlespeed to ride on the smoother XC trails but still be able to jump and fuck around on.

the only rigid that would appeal to me would be a 29+ or a legit fatbike.

Sep 7 2014 10:54PM

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stupendous-man

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Just bought this guy! 09 Specialized SX Trail, offered 1300 and the dude said sure. Pretty stoked on the totem air

Sep 7 2014 11:05PM

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no.me.gustaOr.... you can go the 1x10 route and spend less then three hundred
big boys.

11-36 tooth XT cassette (or SLx)

Zee 10 speed clutch wide range rear mech

30, 32, or 34 Narrow wide chaining (Raceface, Blackspire, Hope, ect)

40 or 42 tooth extender cog if you feel the need for a granny.

1x10 is just fine. really only costs like $60 for a new chain rings. if you live in a really hilly place get a 30t if you need all the pedaling power you can get get a huge one.

Sep 7 2014 11:38PM

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KravtZ

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stupendous-manJust bought this guy! 09 Specialized SX Trail, offered 1300 and the dude said sure. Pretty stoked on the totem air

fucking savage man seems like a great buy at an awesome price.

Sep 8 2014 2:20PM

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TaranItUp

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ThaLoraxBahaha, that's how you interpreted my post? You got aggro at my sarcastic writing style? Chill out. I'm not trying to prove superiority or a higher skill level. Anyone on this site who knows me in real life knows thats the last thing i do. I was simply providing examples of when i have, through experience, found it safer to use my front brake instead of the rear. The fact that you took offense to my post is both ridiculous and hilarious. Sounds like you need to go on a ride to get some of that frustration out.

Didn't mean to start a debate here. Anyhow, while my brakes are being shipped, the bike shop let me use a Scott Genius for the day. After riding the Genius and someone else's Reign, my rear shock is definitely not working properly. Every little stump I roll over and the back of my bike moves 4 or 5 inches, while the Genius moves and inch or two not locked out. Technique or not riding uphill my shock shouldn't react in this way.

Sep 8 2014 7:08PM

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@th1337

Stud_MuffinDidn't mean to start a debate here. Anyhow, while my brakes are being shipped, the bike shop let me use a Scott Genius for the day. After riding the Genius and someone else's Reign, my rear shock is definitely not working properly. Every little stump I roll over and the back of my bike moves 4 or 5 inches, while the Genius moves and inch or two not locked out. Technique or not riding uphill my shock shouldn't react in this way.

No worries. Have your shop check the air pressure. If it's not holding, it Sounds like it either needs new seals or to be rebuilt. Tell your shop.

Sep 8 2014 7:51PM

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TheBeardedOne

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So I've been riding a specialized hardrock sport disc for about 7 years on xc/light downhill and I absolutely love this bike. I'm in the middle of replacing a lot of the components including the drive system, tires, fork, and brakes. Is this a waste of time? I love this bike and it works perfectly just has old parts that are wearing out. Is it worth to rebuild or should I just get a new 29er?

Sep 8 2014 8:31PM

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cwillygood

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TheBeardedOneSo I've been riding a specialized hardrock sport disc for about 7 years on xc/light downhill and I absolutely love this bike. I'm in the middle of replacing a lot of the components including the drive system, tires, fork, and brakes. Is this a waste of time? I love this bike and it works perfectly just has old parts that are wearing out. Is it worth to rebuild or should I just get a new 29er?

Depends, if the frame is in good condition and you want to put some really nice parts on it to make it lighter, ride better whatever then for sure!

but

if your going to put cheaper parts on, especially a fork, it might be worth going with something new.

Sep 8 2014 8:35PM

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ModMommy

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TheBeardedOneSo I've been riding a specialized hardrock sport disc for about 7 years on xc/light downhill and I absolutely love this bike. I'm in the middle of replacing a lot of the components including the drive system, tires, fork, and brakes. Is this a waste of time? I love this bike and it works perfectly just has old parts that are wearing out. Is it worth to rebuild or should I just get a new 29er?

Honestly that's a personal decision. How much is going to cost you to replace the gear vs the price of a new bike? The bikes have changed SO much in the last 7 years, I'd see if you can get a test ride of a new one, then base your choice off that.

Sep 8 2014 8:36PM

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TheBeardedOne

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*cgski*Depends, if the frame is in good condition and you want to put some really nice parts on it to make it lighter, ride better whatever then for sure!

but

if your going to put cheaper parts on, especially a fork, it might be worth going with something new.

The frame is in great condition and I'm not really skimping on parts, I'm probably going to wait until spring to buy a fork with tax returns.

immasHonestly that's a personal decision. How much is going to cost you to replace the gear vs the price of a new bike? The bikes have changed SO much in the last 7 years, I'd see if you can get a test ride of a new one, then base your choice off that.

Thanks, I hadn't really thought of how much they've changed.

Sep 8 2014 10:14PM

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ThaLoraxBahaha, that's how you interpreted my post? You got aggro at my sarcastic writing style? Chill out. I'm not trying to prove superiority or a higher skill level. Anyone on this site who knows me in real life knows thats the last thing i do. I was simply providing examples of when i have, through experience, found it safer to use my front brake instead of the rear. The fact that you took offense to my post is both ridiculous and hilarious. Sounds like you need to go on a ride to get some of that frustration out.

Lighten up, Francis...I think your meter is broken.

Besides, it's just mountain biking.

Not really stoke, but some scenery from the past 2 rides.

Shitty phone pic from a recent ride through the ferns in our lush forests.

Mt Rainier this past Sunday morning before dropping in from the East Summit of Tiger Mountain. Definitely worth riding if anyone is ever looking for rides in the Seattle area.

XtRemE11anybody here ride a rigid? for some reason its really appealing to me, ive already got a 6" bike thats awesome on anything rough and downhill.

I just think it'd be cool to have a somewhat slack, short rear end, aggressive geo rigid 29er singlespeed to ride on the smoother XC trails but still be able to jump and fuck around on.

I believe MEDSKI is rocking a rigid Niner for racing. I know he posted a pic in the earlier pages of this thread.

Do you have a frame material that you are leaning towards? Brands you are somewhat loyal to or interested in? How tall are you and what do you weigh? Have you considered or eliminated fatbikes from your search?

TheBeardedOneSo I've been riding a specialized hardrock sport disc for about 7 years on xc/light downhill and I absolutely love this bike. I'm in the middle of replacing a lot of the components including the drive system, tires, fork, and brakes. Is this a waste of time? I love this bike and it works perfectly just has old parts that are wearing out. Is it worth to rebuild or should I just get a new 29er?

Before you drop any money on new parts, think about what your bike doesn't do for you now. Whether it's lacking rear suspension for rocky and rooty terrain, or if 26" wheels aren't rolling efficiently enough for your tastes and local trails, geometry doesn't match with your riding, size, etc.. No bike is perfect for every situation. If you are already considering a new fork for your existing bike as well as brakes and drivetrain, there is obviously reason to upgrade; seriously consider your options before dropping any cash. You can get a lot of bike for the buck these days. And you could still keep your Hardrock as a second bike for the days you feel like riding it. You could always upgrade it later on if you so desire.

Modern bikes have much different geometry than bikes of even 5 years of age. Most companies are going to slacker headtube angles to maximize the stability on the downhills. Short chainstays keep the bike snappy and playful, especially when you are looking at the larger wheelsizes, which more and more bikes are coming with now it seems.

Look around, try some bikes if you can at shops or demo events. Lots of options out there.

Sep 9 2014 6:05PM

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Sklar

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XtRemE11anybody here ride a rigid? for some reason its really appealing to me, ive already got a 6" bike thats awesome on anything rough and downhill.

I just think it'd be cool to have a somewhat slack, short rear end, aggressive geo rigid 29er singlespeed to ride on the smoother XC trails but still be able to jump and fuck around on.

Shameless plug for my brother. http://www.sklarbikes.com/
Quite a few of the bikes he's been building lately sound RIGHT up your alley.

Sep 9 2014 6:11PM

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Sklar

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SklarShameless plug for my brother. http://www.sklarbikes.com/
Quite a few of the bikes he's been building lately sound RIGHT up your alley.

Whoops, that meant to have some photos

Sep 9 2014 6:14PM

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*TURBONERD*

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Got back on the bike for the first time in a bit today. It was rad.

Sep 9 2014 6:15PM

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*cgski*Gotta love biking

From shifter for front derailer breaks, buy new one, while setting it up realize from derailer is also broken.

Why does 1x11 have to be a grand :(

Guess I missed this one.

As someone who has recently shunned front derailleurs in favor of 1x11; it's definitely worth it. No annoying sounds of chains rattling through the derailleur, mis-shifts, cables loosening...fuck those things.

1x10 is a much more cost effective method of achieving the same end result. Depending on your current cassette, or preference, you wouldn't need to buy a new one. Race Face is just one manufacturer pushing "narrow/wide" technology. I have 3 of their rings 30t/32t/34t for my bikes, and they were around $40 each. Amazon had some good deals on them for a while. And a clutch type rear derailleur. Sram's X9 would be my personal choice to save money, but Shimano also has a few options depending on what you want to spend.

Regarding the 1x11 setup, the money is in the rear derailleur and cassette. The cassette is ridiculous and I would never wish anyone to ever have to pay retail for one, whether it's X1/X01/XX1, they are way too expensive. Especially for a part that by nature will break down and have to be replaced. With that said, I fucking love it.

To make the most of the 1x11 you'll need to pick the chainring that best fits your location and riding. I'm currently running a 30t chainring and after climbing just over 3500ft on Sunday, it is going to get swapped to a 32t. I think I've used the 42t cog less than 5 times since getting the bike built up 5 or 6 weeks ago. I can't stand the 30t as I feel like I spin too easily and get no where. Time to move up.

Option 3 is to combine the 1x10 with an aftermarket 40t/42t cassette cog and having your choice to swap to a 16t ring to make the range more consistent. If this is intriguing, do your due diligence. There have been many successful cases and yet many people have trouble getting the shifting to a perfect balance. My father in law is running the OneUp 40t and 16t cogs and he cannot get the bike to shift up to the 40t and back down smoothly or quickly. It's one or the other and he has spent more time than I would ever bother with on it. Something to consider.

Sep 9 2014 6:20PM

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Crazy Fool

division.bellOption 3 is to combine the 1x10 with an aftermarket 40t/42t cassette cog and having your choice to swap to a 16t ring to make the range more consistent. If this is intriguing, do your due diligence. There have been many successful cases and yet many people have trouble getting the shifting to a perfect balance. My father in law is running the OneUp 40t and 16t cogs and he cannot get the bike to shift up to the 40t and back down smoothly or quickly. It's one or the other and he has spent more time than I would ever bother with on it. Something to consider.

theyre also starting to make after market rear derailleur cages to fit with the extended range cogs now. something to look into if your father in law can't seem to get the right balance.

Sep 10 2014 9:02AM

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Tingatheyre also starting to make after market rear derailleur cages to fit with the extended range cogs now. something to look into if your father in law can't seem to get the right balance.

Yup, definitely aware. However, Oneup's extended cage is only available for Shimano rear derailleurs and my father in law runs Sram.

Even after replacing the existing B adjustment screw with a longer one, he still cannot get the bike to shift smoothly in both the up and down directions. Maybe if the extended cage was available for Sram it would solve his issues, who knows.

It's a cool idea for those people that want a wider range cassette, but if I were going to convert a bike to 1x10, I would just run a standard 11-36/12-36 cassette with an appropriately sized chain ring to keep it simple and within the ranges of a standard clutch type rear derailleur.

Sep 10 2014 10:57AM

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ChrisSkisChronic

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Insane

Some stoke from last fall. Can't wait til this spot dries out a bit more so we send it again:

Sep 10 2014 2:27PM

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XtRemE11

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SklarShameless plug for my brother. http://www.sklarbikes.com/
Quite a few of the bikes he's been building lately sound RIGHT up your alley.

Yes they definitely do, but 1500/2000 minimum is a bit more than im looking to spend for a frame.

Sep 10 2014 5:51PM

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kvan

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So I managed to fuck something up on my Fox 36 and its probably gonna be way to expensive to fix. I guess I'm in depression mode until ski season starts.

Sep 14 2014 12:56AM

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TheBeardedOne

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This is my trusty ol' Hardrock, thing rocks in any conditions. Some of you will probably make fun of me but it's tough as nails and will go through just about anything. I posted a few days ago asking if it was worth it to uprade and I think I made up my mind. I tuned it up real nice and I think I'm gonna replace the cassette, chain, and front drive gears this fall along with pedals. New wheels and a fork and headset/bar upgrade are to come over the winter. It fits me perfect and I'm gonna be stubborn about keeping my 26er, this frame is awesome.

Any thoughts?

Sep 14 2014 6:54PM

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stupendous-man

Posts: 8637 - Karma: 13,293

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Crazy Fool

Shots from my first time at Blackrock this past summer. Worth the trip if you are west of the mississippi

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn03q9rbmfs

Sep 14 2014 10:53PM

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cwillygood

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went for an epic ride today outside of Bozeman. Chestnut Ridge is a must

Sep 14 2014 11:08PM

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bakedpow

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stupendous-manShots from my first time at Blackrock this past summer. Worth the trip if you are west of the mississippi

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn03q9rbmfs

that place looks sweet! nice one

Sep 14 2014 11:48PM

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kung_powpow

Posts: 1990 - Karma: 3,671

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Insane

I just bought this bike and was wondering if I got a good deal or not. I don't really know too much about AM/DH mountain biking since I've only rode hardtrail singletrack in Maryland. Any info/reviews about my components and bike in general would be awesome.

2007 Iron Horse 7point3
Frame size large
I'm 5' 11" and 165lb
2x9
* Front Fork: Marzocchi Super T RV 185mm travel
* Rear Fork: Fox Vanilla R Coil
* Brakes: Avid Juicy 3 w/ 8" Rotor brakes
* Cranks: Not sure
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Saint
* Rear Derailleur: Sram x7
* Pedals: Wellgo B66
* Stem: MZX4
* Handlebar: Funn 318
* Seatpost: SDG 6061 I-Beam
* Saddle: SDG Bel Air ST I-Beam
* Bottom Bracket: FSA Mega EXO
* Cassette: Not sure
* Headset: 1.5" Integrated FSA Big Fat Pig 1.5R
* Front/Rear Tire: 26 x 2.50" Maxxis Minion DHF 3C
* Front/Rear Rim: Sun MTX S-Type
* Weight: Not sure yet

Sep 15 2014 3:05AM

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kung_powpow

Posts: 1990 - Karma: 3,671

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kung_powpowI just bought this bike and was wondering if I got a good deal or not. I don't really know too much about AM/DH mountain biking since I've only rode hardtrail singletrack in Maryland. Any info/reviews about my components and bike in general would be awesome.

2007 Iron Horse 7point3
Frame size large
I'm 5' 11" and 165lb
2x9
* Front Fork: Marzocchi Super T RV 185mm travel
* Rear Fork: Fox Vanilla R Coil
* Brakes: Avid Juicy 3 w/ 8" Rotor brakes
* Cranks: Not sure
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Saint
* Rear Derailleur: Sram x7
* Pedals: Wellgo B66
* Stem: MZX4
* Handlebar: Funn 318
* Seatpost: SDG 6061 I-Beam
* Saddle: SDG Bel Air ST I-Beam
* Bottom Bracket: FSA Mega EXO
* Cassette: Not sure
* Headset: 1.5" Integrated FSA Big Fat Pig 1.5R
* Front/Rear Tire: 26 x 2.50" Maxxis Minion DHF 3C
* Front/Rear Rim: Sun MTX S-Type
* Weight: Not sure yet

Oh and I paid $350

Sep 15 2014 3:06AM

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@th1337

kung_powpowOh and I paid $350

$350? Fuck yea you got a good deal. That frame is really heavy and that fork has been discontinued. However it's a bomber frame and will last you forever.

Sep 15 2014 8:58AM

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LC.

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Clipless system recommendations anyone? I'm going to pick some up over winter sales and get comfortable on them in spring before the real riding starts next summer. Only been riding properly for 3 summers now but I feel confident enough to clip in now.

Most of my friends ride Shimano because they like the locked-in feeling but I'm not sure if the extra float of Crank Bros or Time would make me feel more confident, or if I'd end up cranking them tight in the end anyway. Thoughts?

Most my riding is very steep & technical on natural trails, so confidence, easy in/out, a small platform, reasonably light weight and good durability are what I'm looking for. It would be between XT Trails, Candys or Time MX 6/8 anyway.

Current ride (Nukeproof Mega 2012 with Vivid Air, Pikes, Saint/Zee/XT, Hope/Flows, etc):

Sep 15 2014 9:19AM

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DayMan

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stupendous-manJust bought this guy! 09 Specialized SX Trail, offered 1300 and the dude said sure. Pretty stoked on the totem air

I'm jealous that's a sick deal

Sep 15 2014 9:33AM

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Crazy Fool

BoaxClipless system recommendations anyone? I'm going to pick some up over winter sales and get comfortable on them in spring before the real riding starts next summer. Only been riding properly for 3 summers now but I feel confident enough to clip in now.

Most of my friends ride Shimano because they like the locked-in feeling but I'm not sure if the extra float of Crank Bros or Time would make me feel more confident, or if I'd end up cranking them tight in the end anyway. Thoughts?

Most my riding is very steep & technical on natural trails, so confidence, easy in/out, a small platform, reasonably light weight and good durability are what I'm looking for. It would be between XT Trails, Candys or Time MX 6/8 anyway.

the egg beater sheds mud better than the spd platform and also offers four entry points rather than just one. I ride candies myself and I love them. I would opt up for the candy 2s so you get an actual metal pedal. I would ride your friends shimanos and see how you like being tightly clipped. I like a bit of float because my knees don't exactly go straight.

Sep 15 2014 10:05AM

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LC.

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Tingathe egg beater sheds mud better than the spd platform and also offers four entry points rather than just one

Well I avoid mud whenever I can, definitely a "fair weather biker" and not ashamed to admit it! So mud shedding really isn't a big concern. I've seen some good local riders on Candys but also heard from several Shimano riders that they break a lot - need to ask some shop friends about what they see coming back for warranties, could just be brand loyalty talking.

Yeah I'm going to borrow some Shimano XC pedals and shoes from a friend once our lifts stop running at the end of the month to see how I like the general feeling but I think it will just feel weird to start with regardless, so might be hard to tell.

Extra float (Crank Bros/Time ATAC) is appealing for my knees and I just think I'll feel a little safer if I'm not locked into one position as much, but I've never clipped in in my life so this is all speculation, and like I said I might end up wanting to be locked-in once I'm confortable on them anyway.

Anyone recently moved to clipless and got some opinions on this?

Sep 15 2014 10:26AM

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BoaxAnyone recently moved to clipless and got some opinions on this?

this is my first season on clipless and honestly I love it. it really is surprising how much more pedaling power you get with them. also I feel much more committed when I get into technical sections for the simple reason that I'm clipped in. My friends convinced me to try flats for a day on the lifts and I felt so disconnected from my bike.

Sep 15 2014 10:53AM

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