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Bad mount?

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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
So I took my new skis to get mounted at sports chalet (unfortunately its the only place to get it done within an hour and half of my house) and unsurprisingly, they did a terrible job. All of the screws are fine, except for two of the screws on the heelpiece are threatening to pull out just by hand flexing the ski. My conclusion is that the guy's hand must of slipped or something caused the hole to be a bit too big.

In short, the heelpiece is threatening to pull out just by a hand flex.

I was thinking, being the big corporation that sports chalet is, I could badger them into refunding the purchase price of my skis.

What do NS?
May 12 2014 9:01PM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
Thread needs pics:

good thing its the offseason...
May 12 2014 9:30PM
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LOLZfajitas
Posts: 393 - Karma: 1,054
Sports chalet ruined a pair of skis of mine by mounting them wrong three times, then a few weeks later the binding ripped out, and the core was rotted because they didnt glue the screws. Fuck sports chalet
May 12 2014 10:06PM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
LOLZfajitasSports chalet ruined a pair of skis of mine by mounting them wrong three times, then a few weeks later the binding ripped out, and the core was rotted because they didnt glue the screws. Fuck sports chalet


Same thing happened to my old skis... the guy in the shop said he's been mounting skis for 11 years so I guess it takes more than 11 years to learn to use a jig
May 12 2014 10:09PM
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Paul.
Posts: 1599 - Karma: 11,097
My brother went to ski chalet (different company) and asked to have his skis mounted -3 from center. Instead they decided to do it -3 from recommended (-10 from center). All they did for him was remount and gave him a coupon for a free wax. They went out of business a year later. He never even got to use the free wax.
May 13 2014 12:48AM
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shredschralp
Posts: 54 - Karma: 55
yes the shop fucked up, and in turn fucked you. If you just take a handheld pozi #3 screw driver to it you should be able to fix the mount. Unless the shop fucked up the placement or angles...den you be fucked...and thats why I bought the small amount of tools required and now mount my own skis...
May 13 2014 3:55AM
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b-kul
Posts: 4350 - Karma: 1,111
stupid but understandable, that is why i always draw my own mounting line and personally show the tech.
May 13 2014 10:49AM
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snowpocalypse
Posts: 1036 - Karma: 3,525
Looks like all you need is a few more turns on the heel screws. Hard to tell from the pics but my guess is they didn't hand check after popping the screws in with the gun. Grab a driver and give them a light twist if the screw spins easily they might have stripped the hole if you can hand tighten you are golden.
May 13 2014 11:07AM
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b-kul
Posts: 4350 - Karma: 1,111
b-kulstupid but understandable, that is why i always draw my own mounting line and personally show the tech.


meant to quote paul.
May 13 2014 12:04PM
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.nasty
Posts: 10581 - Karma: 11,150
SVmikeLooks like all you need is a few more turns on the heel screws. Hard to tell from the pics but my guess is they didn't hand check after popping the screws in with the gun. Grab a driver and give them a light twist if the screw spins easily they might have stripped the hole if you can hand tighten you are golden.


do not do this!! if the tech has already applied glue to the holes, screwing it in tighter as is will only break the glue and you will have tight screws but with no glue to hold them in with. A buddy of mine used to always tighten holes on an FKS for a friend of his before comps (he was a tech and thought he was making sure they were extra tight for comps, his friend an athlete) and they ripped out multiple times just because of this.


It looks as though the tech may not have hand tightened those screws very well, If I were you I would first take a posidrive (if you have one) and try and move the screws by turning them. If they move extremely easily with a tiny bit of force then the tech has obviously stripped the holes and they're pretty much crap unless you helicoil them (in which case I'd take them back and demand compensation). If they are tight (don't try too hard to turn them), then I'd still take them back to the shop and have them take the heel piece off and redo it and making sure all the screws are flush (keep in mind on the px12 heel the back of the heel piece may not sit flat but the front screws that you've shown should!).
May 13 2014 12:36PM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
.nylesdo not do this!! if the tech has already applied glue to the holes, screwing it in tighter as is will only break the glue and you will have tight screws but with no glue to hold them in with. A buddy of mine used to always tighten holes on an FKS for a friend of his before comps (he was a tech and thought he was making sure they were extra tight for comps, his friend an athlete) and they ripped out multiple times just because of this.


It looks as though the tech may not have hand tightened those screws very well, If I were you I would first take a posidrive (if you have one) and try and move the screws by turning them. If they move extremely easily with a tiny bit of force then the tech has obviously stripped the holes and they're pretty much crap unless you helicoil them (in which case I'd take them back and demand compensation). If they are tight (don't try too hard to turn them), then I'd still take them back to the shop and have them take the heel piece off and redo it and making sure all the screws are flush (keep in mind on the px12 heel the back of the heel piece may not sit flat but the front screws that you've shown should!).

At first I thought it was just loose, so I took it in to get tightened so not to void any warranty, but then I went home and noticed that it was loose again. I actually over heard them talking about how the guy made a mistake mounting them, so I'm 100% sure that the hole for the screw is too big. In definitely not going to let them use helicoils or do a remount. Hopefully they refund my money.
May 13 2014 4:03PM
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.nasty
Posts: 10581 - Karma: 11,150
uyghurAt first I thought it was just loose, so I took it in to get tightened so not to void any warranty, but then I went home and noticed that it was loose again. I actually over heard them talking about how the guy made a mistake mounting them, so I'm 100% sure that the hole for the screw is too big. In definitely not going to let them use helicoils or do a remount. Hopefully they refund my money.


yeah judging by the reputation of this shop, I'd have another shop do the work but helicoils sounds like your best bet. However, you should definitely keep complaining to them to either refund money/replace gear/etc... don't let them take advantage of you!
May 13 2014 4:44PM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
.nylesyeah judging by the reputation of this shop, I'd have another shop do the work but helicoils sounds like your best bet. However, you should definitely keep complaining to them to either refund money/replace gear/etc... don't let them take advantage of you!


Thanks for the advice!
May 13 2014 6:07PM
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b-kul
Posts: 4350 - Karma: 1,111
.nylesdo not do this!! if the tech has already applied glue to the holes, screwing it in tighter as is will only break the glue and you will have tight screws but with no glue to hold them in with. A buddy of mine used to always tighten holes on an FKS for a friend of his before comps (he was a tech and thought he was making sure they were extra tight for comps, his friend an athlete) and they ripped out multiple times just because of this.


It looks as though the tech may not have hand tightened those screws very well, If I were you I would first take a posidrive (if you have one) and try and move the screws by turning them. If they move extremely easily with a tiny bit of force then the tech has obviously stripped the holes and they're pretty much crap unless you helicoil them (in which case I'd take them back and demand compensation). If they are tight (don't try too hard to turn them), then I'd still take them back to the shop and have them take the heel piece off and redo it and making sure all the screws are flush (keep in mind on the px12 heel the back of the heel piece may not sit flat but the front screws that you've shown should!).


most shops use wood glue, only to keep water out. the glue itself does pretty much nothing to hold the screw in.
May 14 2014 12:27AM
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HuckNorris44
Posts: 1025 - Karma: 2,393
.nylesdo not do this!! if the tech has already applied glue to the holes, screwing it in tighter as is will only break the glue and you will have tight screws but with no glue to hold them in with. A buddy of mine used to always tighten holes on an FKS for a friend of his before comps (he was a tech and thought he was making sure they were extra tight for comps, his friend an athlete) and they ripped out multiple times just because of this.


It looks as though the tech may not have hand tightened those screws very well, If I were you I would first take a posidrive (if you have one) and try and move the screws by turning them. If they move extremely easily with a tiny bit of force then the tech has obviously stripped the holes and they're pretty much crap unless you helicoil them (in which case I'd take them back and demand compensation). If they are tight (don't try too hard to turn them), then I'd still take them back to the shop and have them take the heel piece off and redo it and making sure all the screws are flush (keep in mind on the px12 heel the back of the heel piece may not sit flat but the front screws that you've shown should!).


What facts are you coming off of?

First, the glue doesnt hold the binding or screws in what so ever. All the glue does it waterproof the holes so water doesnt get into the core and ruin the core.

Second, Even if it is reletively tight to screw them in, tighten them down until the binding sits flush, if the screw is still holding tightly and stops turning when the binding is flush than your fine. If you feel the screw getting very loose when your turning them then stop. At this point that is all the shop will do, if it doesnt work then remount them or try and get some money back from them.

Third, the PX12 and Axial 2 bindings are supposed to sit flush on the ski no matter what. I have never mounted these types of bindings and had the heel piece not flush with the ski. The very very back comes off the ski but that is how they are designed. The ski should be flush where the screws are going into the ski.
May 14 2014 12:41AM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
GnarcotiksWhat facts are you coming off of?

First, the glue doesnt hold the binding or screws in what so ever. All the glue does it waterproof the holes so water doesnt get into the core and ruin the core.

Second, Even if it is reletively tight to screw them in, tighten them down until the binding sits flush, if the screw is still holding tightly and stops turning when the binding is flush than your fine. If you feel the screw getting very loose when your turning them then stop. At this point that is all the shop will do, if it doesnt work then remount them or try and get some money back from them.

Third, the PX12 and Axial 2 bindings are supposed to sit flush on the ski no matter what. I have never mounted these types of bindings and had the heel piece not flush with the ski. The very very back comes off the ski but that is how they are designed. The ski should be flush where the screws are going into the ski.

I don't think the screw is it tight enough nor is it stripped, rather the drilled hole itself is too big for the screw.
May 14 2014 1:42AM
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.nasty
Posts: 10581 - Karma: 11,150
GnarcotiksWhat facts are you coming off of?

First, the glue doesnt hold the binding or screws in what so ever. All the glue does it waterproof the holes so water doesnt get into the core and ruin the core.

Second, Even if it is reletively tight to screw them in, tighten them down until the binding sits flush, if the screw is still holding tightly and stops turning when the binding is flush than your fine. If you feel the screw getting very loose when your turning them then stop. At this point that is all the shop will do, if it doesnt work then remount them or try and get some money back from them.

Third, the PX12 and Axial 2 bindings are supposed to sit flush on the ski no matter what. I have never mounted these types of bindings and had the heel piece not flush with the ski. The very very back comes off the ski but that is how they are designed. The ski should be flush where the screws are going into the ski.

Okay so you contradicted yourself in your last paragraph, good job on that!! No shit the screw areas are flush I was most certainly talking about exactly what you mentioned about the very back of the heel piece that lifts up just a tad.

Now I never said the glue holds the screw in on the ski, you idiots are misreading everything I wrote. The glue (and yes I am aware it is a wood glue LOL) helps the screw to keep its formal position with the threading of the ski and prevents unnecessary pressure on the threading of the hole, why would it even be used if it had no purpos you botards?!

OP, trust me if anything. I mount Ahmets, Sean j's, rockwell nixons, b browns, and other's skis when they're in breckenridge which I hate to claim but it seems necessary here. There is a reason they come to me and the other tech at Slope Style, because we don't have the stupid NS knowledge the rest of these kids in the thread have lol.
May 14 2014 10:15AM
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.nasty
Posts: 10581 - Karma: 11,150
Oh and did this binding go on a pair of Rossi slats? I bet the tech used the 4.1 bit instead of the normal wood core bit (lots of techs think that ski has metal in it) and when he screwed them in he probably stripped those holes. What he should've done is used the normal bit and tapped the hole just a tad to get that screw in. This info doesn't really help you but it'll give you a better understanding of what happened. Could also be that since that ski has a special layer in it (forget what it's called) it is also somewhat of a bitch to get the screws all the way, I mounted my own slats and it took a lot of hand cranking. But it seems that that is not your problem. So again, go back to them and demand this be taken care of.
May 14 2014 10:25AM
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b-kul
Posts: 4350 - Karma: 1,111
formal position? unnessisary pressure? what do those things even mean? the only way wood glue provides any important structure is that it fills in the minisule space between a properly drilled ski and binding screw so water does not get in and rot the core.
May 14 2014 10:31AM
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.nasty
Posts: 10581 - Karma: 11,150
oh, and as for the glue having to due with waterproofing holes that IS true to a certain extent, but at the same time if I were to mount skis and do them perfectly (which I always do anyway, no I'm not bragging I am just very prideful in my work) then there would be no water getting in anyway (although it also depends on the binding). It's more about threading.
May 14 2014 10:31AM
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-SnowSnoli-
Posts: 756 - Karma: 1,703
Take the binding off, scrape top sheet so its flat (the problem is the topsheet has lifted as they have screwed in) put wood glue in hole, screw down.. jobs a gooden
May 14 2014 2:12PM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
.nylesOh and did this binding go on a pair of Rossi slats? I bet the tech used the 4.1 bit instead of the normal wood core bit (lots of techs think that ski has metal in it) and when he screwed them in he probably stripped those holes. What he should've done is used the normal bit and tapped the hole just a tad to get that screw in. This info doesn't really help you but it'll give you a better understanding of what happened. Could also be that since that ski has a special layer in it (forget what it's called) it is also somewhat of a bitch to get the screws all the way, I mounted my own slats and it took a lot of hand cranking. But it seems that that is not your problem. So again, go back to them and demand this be taken care of.

Yeah its on slats lol goes to show my chronicle of skis on gear talk
-SnowSnoli-Take the binding off, scrape top sheet so its flat (the problem is the topsheet has lifted as they have screwed in) put wood glue in hole, screw down.. jobs a gooden

I'm not going to do that myself but is this an actual possibility?
May 14 2014 3:57PM
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-SnowSnoli-
Posts: 756 - Karma: 1,703
I'm not going to do that myself but is this an actual possibility?



Yes, I'm a ski tech and have been for 8 years. But by the looks of the photo. its just a bad attention to details. The holes are most likely fine.

Take them back to the shop show them, they'll probably do what I said.
May 14 2014 6:03PM
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HuckNorris44
Posts: 1025 - Karma: 2,393
.nylesif the tech has already applied glue to the holes, screwing it in tighter as is will only break the glue and you will have tight screws but with no glue to hold them in with.





.nylesOkay so you contradicted yourself in your last paragraph, good job on that!! No shit the screw areas are flush I was most certainly talking about exactly what you mentioned about the very back of the heel piece that lifts up just a tad.

Now I never said the glue holds the screw in on the ski, you idiots are misreading everything I wrote. The glue (and yes I am aware it is a wood glue LOL) helps the screw to keep its formal position with the threading of the ski and prevents unnecessary pressure on the threading of the hole, why would it even be used if it had no purpos you botards?!

OP, trust me if anything. I mount Ahmets, Sean j's, rockwell nixons, b browns, and other's skis when they're in breckenridge which I hate to claim but it seems necessary here. There is a reason they come to me and the other tech at Slope Style, because we don't have the stupid NS knowledge the rest of these kids in the thread have lol.


First, the binding doesnt "lift up just a tad" at all, horrible description of what you were trying to say.

Second, if you didnt say the glue holds the screw in then why did you say "You will have tight screws with no glue to hold them in with." As well, there is no "threading on the ski" so glue doesnt help the crew keep its formal position. Granted, the glue does help to lubricate the screw and hole so the screw goes in a bit easier. And if it didnt provide water proofing, why is it always recommended to use a polyurethane glue that is not water based. Something that is flexible and waterproof? The glue also helps to absorb some vibrations which can loosen screws overtime. Only reason kids come in to you to mount shit is cause it is really the only "freestyle" skiing store in Breck, if not Summit County. If your going to be a little bitch and throw that out then ill throw out I worked at Mountain Wave for a while and mounted Bobby's shit, Simon, and a lot of the guys who were in town when the Honda ski tour was around and the first couple years of the Dew Tour. Guess working in a shop for the last 10 years is stupid NS knowledge, Slopestyle hasnt even been around that long.
May 14 2014 6:57PM
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TheGreenBastard
Posts: 215 - Karma: 135
if you think glue holds your screws into skis your fucking retarted and a huge pussy with no understanding of the materials involved in mounting a ski, glue seals water from the core, caulk works too, ive mounted all fifteen pairs of my skis, i even got a pair of skis from 1993 and remounted them to my boot and i even forgot to use sealent and those fuckin things huck the shit out of shit and those M4.5s fucking hold me in too, you need to back out the screws and then zap them back in so the bindings flush, or you can go back to the shop and give them something to joke about for a few minutes
May 14 2014 8:05PM
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uyghur
Posts: 993 - Karma: 2,028
So i took it in and they refused to refund because I bought it off evo. So instead I got their most expensive pair of skis(soul 7) and my old skis, plus a refund of my mount.
Anyone want a killer deal on some soul 7s?
May 14 2014 8:23PM
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