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How much agitation did you go with on the tank? I mean, if it was left to stand for too long without being rolled over, perhaps that entire area of your film strip just didn't receive enough developer or fixer in the first place. Seems like it's in the same place on the film.
Not positive about it being the actual issue, but it's certainly the first thing that came to mind for me. If your'e using a really large tank (you did say you were using a pretty large devo tank..), and the amount of developer/fixer used was sitting only as high up on the negative as what's developed, and then left to stand rather than receiving constant agitation as it probably needed, then it COULD lead to this.
I don't know. I've never really seen this kinda thing before so I'm pondering the possibilities.
tried my hand at both sprocket hole photos and push processing in the same swoop. failed miserably on both fronts by not advancing the film far enough on each frame and also pushing the development when it really wasn't necessary. it was all guesswork anyways on the holga. the only frames that actually came out were horribly underexposed and i tried to get rid of the yellow hue but pretty much all detail leaves with it.
i'm so stoked having fun and learning this shit though haha.
I just got into film photography thanks to the photography class I'm currently in at my school and I've been enjoying it. I just need to become more familiar with developing the film reel after taking photos.
i finally got one of the two cameras i bought on ebay, still waiting on the Fed 3 out of the ukraine. ae-1 with the 50mm kit, 28mm wide angle, 28-210, 135, sunpak flash, and a ton of cool filters. i got the ektar 100 after the pictures were posted above ^, thanks for the help! i also picked up a b&w roll of fomapan 200 and velvia 100. i can't wait to get out and shoot with it!
Alright guys, i really need your help with this one. I got the battery for my new ae-1, and it does work. That "oh shit" moment. I know what it is, its the advance lever. If you pull it back to advance the film, it moves, but i can feel that nothing is moving on the inside. I really dont have the money to mail this to someone and spend ~$100 to repair it. I think the "advance coupling plate" is whats causing the problem. Is there any way for me to fix this? Its breaking my heart to just look at this camera but not use it. Thanks!
Unless it's for say a Leica usually any problem with a film camera is too expensive to make a repair worthwhile.
The film advance not working can be something very simple, (advance lever coming unscrewed over time) to a complete clusterfuck of stripped and broken gearing.
I got into B&W last year, and got myself a minolta srt-102 with a 50mm prime and a vivitar 70-210. I want to start doing color, whats a good cheap film for this setup, and where do I buy it?
Thanks
Kodak Gold 200 is pretty hard to beat. Fuji Superia looks great in tungsten lighting I think. But I can't recommend Fuji films, or else Balto'll get mad.
TijmenDalI can't recommend Fuji films, or else Balto'll get mad.
Bahaha!
But honestly, just go with any cheap colour film you can find. I shit you not, I've gone to walmart and picked up 4packs of Fujicolor 200 24exp for like 3-4 bucks on occasion, simply because it's too cheap to pass up.
Is it the best film? eh.. there's better, but really, for the price who cares, it's film.
Here in the uk they sell super cheap colour print film in £1 shops. It doesn't actually look that bad, but the only guys I know who use it shoot sports with F5's and 1V's that shoot like 10fps. I can't comprehend the mechanisms involved with shooting film that fast, or the cost of it haha
Here in the uk they sell super cheap colour print film in £1 shops. It doesn't actually look that bad, but the only guys I know who use it shoot sports with F5's and 1V's that shoot like 10fps. I can't comprehend the mechanisms involved with shooting film that fast, or the cost of it haha
If you want to get serious though with sports get the super rare Canon F1 High speed from 1984.
14FPS and a body roughly the size of northhamptonshire.
TijmenDalKodak Gold 200 is pretty hard to beat. Fuji Superia looks great in tungsten lighting I think. But I can't recommend Fuji films, or else Balto'll get mad.
Yep go buy film from a cosmetics and health supplements company instead of one that actually supports film and it's users, seems logical
BaltoYep go buy film from a cosmetics and health supplements company instead of one that actually supports film and it's users, seems logical
Excuse my ignorance but care to elaborate on this hatred for Fuji you have?
Seeing that they are one of a handful of companies who still manufacture film at all, and still produce new medium format cameras, it would seem to me they are marginally concerned with supporting film users?
I have no allegiance to Fuji and I don't really ever buy their film b/c I don't shoot color slides hardly ever, but I'm just out of the loop as to where the hate comes from.
plorrExcuse my ignorance but care to elaborate on this hatred for Fuji you have?
Seeing that they are one of a handful of companies who still manufacture film at all, and still produce new medium format cameras, it would seem to me they are marginally concerned with supporting film users?
I have no allegiance to Fuji and I don't really ever buy their film b/c I don't shoot color slides hardly ever, but I'm just out of the loop as to where the hate comes from.
Fuji hates film photography and hates production of it, the costs are to steep for them and they want out. Bellamy at JCH did a good write up on them back in 2012 I'll link bellow. I love fuji films, I have shit loads of it in my freezer, but they will not get a single cent more out of me as they have made it clear they do not want to be apart of this business, so instead I will buy products from Kodak Alaris and Ilford, both whom have made clear their commitment to film. Those brands want to be keep making film, so support them so they can afford to instead of giving fuji money to make makeup and vitamins for drug stores in Japan
BaltoFuji hates film photography and hates production of it, the costs are to steep for them and they want out. Bellamy at JCH did a good write up on them back in 2012 I'll link bellow. I love fuji films, I have shit loads of it in my freezer, but they will not get a single cent more out of me as they have made it clear they do not want to be apart of this business, so instead I will buy products from Kodak Alaris and Ilford, both whom have made clear their commitment to film. Those brands want to be keep making film, so support them so they can afford to instead of giving fuji money to make makeup and vitamins for drug stores in Japan
Good to know. Velvia 50 obviously rules and I also really like Acros 100. Ive got a couple boxes of each in my freezer. I guess I'll just have to learn to love Ektar and Delta 100 though.
plorrGood to know. Velvia 50 obviously rules and I also really like Acros 100. Ive got a couple boxes of each in my freezer. I guess I'll just have to learn to love Ektar and Delta 100 though.
Ilford films are friggin great I think. I haven't got much experience with them, but they're awesome, albeit a bit more expensive in general.
I really don't care Fuji is getting out of the film business too much. It's a shame their slide films will be gone, and the instant film for the people that shoot it (I don't, but I think it's awesome), but it just makes the number of manufacturers smaller, which'll only increase the sales of the few(er) number of film manufacturers around. Oh, and Acros is a great film. I'll miss that, but it's nothing irreplacable.
DIPED_IN_SAUCEI got into B&W last year, and got myself a minolta srt-102 with a 50mm prime and a vivitar 70-210. I want to start doing color, whats a good cheap film for this setup, and where do I buy it?
Thanks
A lot of the shots on my flickr page are with cheapo drugstore film. Link is in my profile.
I want to get new developing tanks. My 5 reel leaks, my 3 reel is broken and I've only got a couple of two reels and a couple one reels left. No way in hell I'm paying like 40€ for a new big one though...
if you don't have access to a dark room where do you get your rolls developed? I'm trying to find a place that will give me jpegs as well as prints (or just jpegs)
SamColbyif you don't have access to a dark room where do you get your rolls developed? I'm trying to find a place that will give me jpegs as well as prints (or just jpegs)
There's three options in life:
1.) Let the local camera store deal with it and get shitty low-res .jpg's on a shitty cd for a shitload of money.
Do note that your art (aka bokeh shots of cats and people's backs) will be handled by this bepimpled teenager who will be stuck working as a store clerk for the next 40 years.
2.) Send it to your French Bohemian artist friend who only shoots exotic formats and will scan it for you. He will do an excellent job, but if your pictures are too good he will steal them and claim they are his or it will take a minimum of 8 months and 7 days.
3.) Get a scanner that can scan negatives, if you are serious about film, this is the cheapest route to high quality, either get a multi-purpose (MF & 35) flatbed (Epson V600 or Canon 9000F) or a dedicated 35mm from plustek. Or if you have deeper pockets an older Nikon until Plustek finally sorts out their 120.
SamColbyif you don't have access to a dark room where do you get your rolls developed? I'm trying to find a place that will give me jpegs as well as prints (or just jpegs)
There's three options in life:
1.) Let the local camera store deal with it and get shitty low-res .jpg's on a shitty cd for a shitload of money.
Do note that your art (aka bokeh shots of cats and people's backs) will be handled by this bepimpled teenager who will be stuck working as a store clerk for the next 40 years.
2.) Send it to your French Bohemian artist friend who only shoots exotic formats and will scan it for you. He will do an excellent job, but if your pictures are too good he will steal them and claim they are his or it will take a minimum of 8 months and 7 days.
3.) Get a scanner that can scan negatives, if you are serious about film, this is the cheapest route to high quality, either get a multi-purpose (MF & 35) flatbed (Epson V600 or Canon 9000F) or a dedicated 35mm from plustek. Or if you have deeper pockets an older Nikon until Plustek finally sorts out their 120.
omnidata2.) Send it to your French Bohemian artist friend who only shoots exotic formats and will scan it for you. He will do an excellent job, but if your pictures are too good he will steal them and claim they are his or it will take a minimum of 8 months and 7 days.
Or send it to two idiots who live in an apartment downtown who have a bathroom built for a disabled person so its big enough to do cartwheels in and where they dev/rinse your film with toilet water because their water bill has been approaching 300$ for the 3rd straight month
vandersteezeOr send it to two idiots who live in an apartment downtown who have a bathroom built for a disabled person so its big enough to do cartwheels in and where they dev/rinse your film with toilet water because their water bill has been approaching 300$ for the 3rd straight month
vandersteezeOr send it to two idiots who live in an apartment downtown who have a bathroom built for a disabled person so its big enough to do cartwheels in and where they dev/rinse your film with toilet water because their water bill has been approaching 300$ for the 3rd straight month
I live in Canada, how big of a problem would this be?
They use Thomas' sterile liquid by-product of the body secreted by the kidneys. This wonder fluid adds another dimension of micro-contrast to the pictures, they become so lifelike the subjects will have to pay taxes.
omnidataThey use Thomas' sterile liquid by-product of the body secreted by the kidneys. This wonder fluid adds another dimension of micro-contrast to the pictures, they become so lifelike the subjects will have to pay taxes.
vandersteezeOr send it to two idiots who live in an apartment downtown who have a bathroom built for a disabled person so its big enough to do cartwheels in and where they dev/rinse your film with toilet water because their water bill has been approaching 300$ for the 3rd straight month
Speaking of which, when am I going to get my shitty first roll back?
I just bottled a homebrew IPA, so I have hip trades prepared
B&U, what Jobo do you have? How do you like the results? Was it worth it getting one? How fucking expensive are all the tanks/reels?
I'm looking into maybe getting a Jobo system, but apart from the processor itself (and maybe the lift), the cost of the tanks and reels really adds up. Especially when you want to develop 5+ films at a time.
I think I might just settle for big Paterson tanks instead. Probably isn't worth it throwing 300€+ for a system just because I'm lazy. It's not like I really have the extra money laying around anyway...
cpe2, works fine if you follow the instructions and dont put to much blix in lol. i HATE the shitty fucking reals, they are such a pain in the ass, takes me 3-4x as long to get a roll on vs a paterson. You can get stainless steel reels made for the jobo tanks which would be easier, but are pricey. I basically only use it to do other people's film and kyle uses it for his stuff, I do all my b&w in Patersons.