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Do quiver killers decrease the likelihood of binder rip out?

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Capurnicus
Posts: 9947 - Karma: 1,886
Ayo. Title pretty much says it all. I've had my binders rip out more than anyone would ever want. Got myself some new skis and I'm trying my best to avoid another rip out. My question is, do quiver killers make a mount stronger and less likely to rip out?
Feb 19 2014 11:45AM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7225 - Karma: 18,139
If installed well on a new ski, they will offer a slightly better hold then a conventional mount. However the issue is if you have a rip out there is no way to fix it. Whereas if you have a rip out on a standard mount you can fix it with quiver killers or heli coils. So there are pros and cons. Personally I would standard mount first and then fix with quiver killers if I had a rip out. If you really suffer badly with rip outs, its extreame but you can t-bolt bindings on from under the base. Its extreme but if you always rip out bindings this may be the way to go.

Who is mounting your bindings and how are the rip outs occurring? Also what bindings are they, mount patterns are worth talking into account when choosing a binding.
Feb 19 2014 12:56PM
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freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,057
Have you thought about getting a ski with a metal top sheet? I find those hold really well for a mount. Usually when a ski says to use a 4,1 x 9 i use a 3,6 x 9 and let the screw thread the hole by hand tightening the screw. This way you get a nice hold and clean thread.

Quiver killers are an interesting concept, but i find it easier to spend the ~$90 on another set of griffons
Feb 19 2014 1:55PM
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Goku
Posts: 8119 - Karma: 4,223
Yes, I ski with them, they're great, and I'm going to explain it as simple as possible...
Think of them like inserts on snowboards, those can tolerate way way way more pulling force than traditional wood...
Feb 19 2014 3:16PM
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-SnowSnoli-
Posts: 756 - Karma: 1,703
This is terrible advice. By using a 3.6 on a metal top sheet, when you start screwing in you you raise the entry of the hole (due to the metal) thus making it impossible to make a clean mount (even if to the eye it looks fine) the binding would never be flat with the ski.

Using a 4.1 and hand tightening is more the sufficient enough. Most rip outs are due to bad mounting (i.e over tightening the screws)

Though for sure hand tightening is the way to go.
Feb 19 2014 3:50PM
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yangumane
Posts: 1816 - Karma: 3,347
where do you live? do people call bindings 'binders' in Europe? Not hating, just curious
Feb 19 2014 4:53PM
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onenerdykid
Posts: 6713 - Karma: 11,477
haha we call bindings as "binders" quite often in Vermont. I think it's because it just sounds funny
Feb 20 2014 7:05AM
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.cam.
Posts: 1852 - Karma: 48
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/216051-Binding-mounting-myths

Read through this a bit. Some people actually tested the inserts as compared to a normal screw. Also a bunch of other good info
Feb 20 2014 8:48AM
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Huck_Norris
Posts: 11487 - Karma: 18,627
Ayo check my 18 DIN trapper keepers, motherfuckers.




Feb 20 2014 9:22AM
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Capurnicus
Posts: 9947 - Karma: 1,886
Massachusetts/Vermont
Feb 20 2014 9:34AM
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Capurnicus
Posts: 9947 - Karma: 1,886
Thanks, very interesting info
Feb 20 2014 9:42AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
Bad mounts are the number one cause of tear outs. Try a normal mount from a better shop guy.

Hoji allegedly uses some sort of inserts for strength. But he also skis balls-out with locked-out toes.
Feb 20 2014 9:50AM
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freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,057
i posed the metal as a question for his ski. As for the 3,6 vs 4,1 this was for traditional wood ski. ive never had any issues with a 3,6 and not being able to get the binding flat to the ski. ill keep it in mind going forward. thanks for the input and will watch out for that on the metal topsheets.
Feb 20 2014 11:33AM
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japanada
Posts: 13785 - Karma: 1,956
Well 3.6 is for wood cores, 4.1 for skis with metal. Use the right bits for the job.
Feb 20 2014 3:14PM
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