waxing

Most skis come with a factory wax and tune...dont let anyone tell you otherwise, I know personally reps for Salomon, K2, and Rossi, and all are tune before leaving the factory.

As for after, I start with a citrus base cleaner, rubbed on with a regular cotton terry cloth towel. Then I use a regular all temp wax ironed in, followed by a layer of Swix F4 Rub-On, that I iron in as well with the all temp. Then I scrape, copper brush, nylon brush, scotchbrite pad, and wipe with a rag. Lastly, I buff in another layer of the Swix F4. Dial in a 1 degree edge bevel and debur tips and tails. This is usually good for 10 days of skiing before I do it again.


Look at getting stone ground once every 2 months and having your edges professionally tuned (if you dont know how to bevel edges and that stuff yourself).

i scraped the factory wax off, put on a coat of swix f4 wipe on(like $15 for a large tin, good stuff), then scrape it off and rubb it with scotchbrite pad, the ones with yellow and green sides. use the green first, aan your bases should be really shiny, then run over the ski using the yellow side. this works really well, lasts all day, and goes nice and fast in almost all conditions (except really cold snow). for the scraper i use a sharp plastic one, that about an inch wide. since i havent had my bases flattened(most factory bases are concave or convex), this allows me to hit the wax instead of sliding on the edges. i have never had a stone grind, and unless you want sharp edges, you probably dont need them, but if you slide rails much you can kiss sharp edges goodbye
when i was 2 my parents put me on a pair of sticks.....i have been running wild ever since.

what else??? (bump)

w/e you do dont use any kind of citrus base cleaner or any kind of base cleaner for that matter. what you need to do instead is iron on some cheap non-flouronated wax and scrape it off while its still warm. doing this instead of a base cleaner will keep your base 'hydrated' or so to speak. what a base cleaner does is takes everything out of the base like dirt and everything but it also dryes them out like crazy which is bad. if you hot wax it pulls all the dirt and bad things out but still keeps some wax in the pores.

haha, you guys user f4 rub?!?! you guys gotta get your shit together. herese whats up son. first, NEVER use citrus cleaners! they dry your bases out very fast. use parafin wax, or old generic ski wax, and put a coat on and scrape off. cleans the bases, and is actually good for them. anyway, then, using a ski tuning iron (the reg. ones work ok, but there is a lot of problems that come along with using them. just fork out 30 for a decent ski iron), wax your skis (swix is nice, and f4 is a good general wax (the cub, not the rub on!). or if you have $$$, buy some temp specific stuff. the more flouronated the better. anyway, using a level and debured metal scraper (plastic if you suck), take ALL the wax off. dont hit the edges, as it burrs your scraper. you got to watch it, cause it can dig in and scractch the base if you dont know what your doing. polish with a scotch brite pad, or whatever brushes you decide to buy. remember this: you dont want ANY wax on you base, but seeped into the pores of the base. a paste or liquid wax is a good topcoat. Zardoz not wax is a teflon based lube, and is rediculously fast, but i have heard that is is harsh on your bases. i havent used it enough to know. any kind of hemp butter is very good too. Racepaste by test pilot is great stuff. stay away from the f4. it is very slow compared to these, and it cakes up in the tin. these others wont. oh yeah, if you do any edge tuning (beveling, sharpening, detuning), do it berfore you wax, and then wipe the ski dopwn good with a paper towel. after you wax it, wipe your iron off too. there is nothing worse than having a good wax job ruined by burs stuck in your iron. hit me up if you need more specific help with anything.



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what do you guys do about excess wax that drips off and hardens to the sides of the skis and bindings? i usually pick it off after its hard with a flat blade screwdriver, anything thats better than this?

I know that some skis (like my buddies Scratches) had really smooth bases that needed ground so they would hold wax...my LInes came form the factory ready to hold some wax though...good stuff
Estctst101 got the last one . Here is a new riddle:



From house to house he goes,

A messenger small and slight.

And whether it rains or snows,

He sleeps outside at night.

What am I?





''I was at Killington, Ripping, Waisted..'' - Uncle Pete

Virtually all skis come with a fresh tune straight from the factory. But that doesn't mean the factory tune is any good....

If you're skiing park, just iron in any hydrocarbon wax and scrape with a plastic scraper. Don't use a metal one. Those are for removing excess base material. And don't use highly flourinated wax unless you're willing to do additional maintenance. Flouro waxes will dry out your bases over time so you need to hot scrape after every use.

ryin: most ski scrapers have a notch in one of the corners. This is for running along your edge to remove excess drip.

No ski company waxes their skis out of the factory. They may put a film of wax or something just to protect the ski, but this isn't usual (kinda how metal manufacturers coat their products with an oil to prevent rust)

I recommend reading the other waxing thread. Theres some good info there

If you arent using a base cleaner and you are using a flourinated wax...good luck.

Flourocarbons clog your base if you dont use a base cleaner every 4-5 waxings. After that, the point of waxing is lost since nothing else is getting into the base.

The only substitute for a base cleaner is a a stone grind, and you dont want to do that every 20 days on snow.

base cleaner is the worst shit for your skis you could use. It dries them out. Also, as I mentioned in other threads, rub on wax is a waste of time. It will stay on your skis for maybe 1 run. I don't know why the hell you would nylon brush after copper. You choose brush material based on temperature. Copper is warmest, nylon=colder, horse hair=really cold or very low humidity in the snow. The brush gives your ski some structure and channels for the water to flow along as it melts under your ski.
If you use copper, you put the deepest channels, and brushing with nylon after that is useless. horsehair is also antistatic.

Also, you always tune your edges before waxing, not after.

the amount of misleading information on this site is incredable

who told you fleurocarbons were bad for your skis? This is false.

metal scrapers are not recomended for removing wax. they are a bit harsh on the base, and are not necessary

6 years of racing and tuning skis taught me that. Flourocarbons arent bad, they rock, but you need to not clog your bases with them. Rub on flouros need to be ironed in with a standard parafin to last more than one run, and the nylon brush after the copper serves to get the ptex scrapings out of the channels the copper brush creates.

A dry base can be made not dry with a few coats of hotwax...done right a bas cleaner does just that, clean bases. Look in any tuning trailer at a race (if you can get in) and you will see gallons of base cleaner. Ask them why they have it.


(And a hint, its not for lighting anooying park kids on fire. :rollseyes:)

why would there be p-tex on your ski after brushing? umm, give swix a call, ask for a race tech, ask them what they think of base cleaner. that is all.

Think about it...metal brush, plastic base (yes, ptex is glorified plastic). The copper brush will leave small hairs of shredded plastic in the the nylon will get off.


Ask any tech why they would never put their skis on a belt sander style grinder vs. a real stone grinder. 'hairy bases' will be their response'

your base is not made of p-tex. p-tex is a base repair product. you should go skiing.

I have a ton of citrus cleaner. It never touches my bases, but I use it all the time for cleaning tools. Just hotscrape a few times to clear out flouro wax.

To learn how to wax or tune, just pick up the Swix wax guide. It's like $4 and answers alot of questions.

whether the base is new or old dosnt matter, but it helps to know what kind of wax to use for which snow and temp conditions. get swix, its def the best out there.


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you stole my thread name

dont rip it off slowly, just take one big pull, youll remove more hair and it wont hurt as much
___________________________________



'You're from Ontario, and you're an idiot, meaning that your opinion can pretty much automatically be dismissed worthless. Yes, I can back that up, I used to live there. Moving to BC really opened up my eyes to what skiing is really about. HINT: Skiing isn't about tiny verticals, shit talking, and private clubs galore. Get the fuck out of Glen Eden and Craigleith or Caledon, and get real.'-what jib this thinks of me

huh?

and alot of you guys are really uneducated.

first, your base IS made of ptex. ptex is a brand name, so is durasurf. that type of plastic is called
UHMW. and yeah, base cleaner DOES dry out your base. ironing wax wont do anything to undo that. and a parafin wax is the best way to clean them. metal scrapers are fine. as long as you MAINTAIN THEM!



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Read and learn...

http://www.tokous.com/Manuals/Alpine%20tech%20manual.pdf

Then shut the fuck up.

freeskinow: yeah, i know. i said that up there baisically. It was gonne happen sooner or later, w/e i don't think it really matters, right.

ontarioskingsucks was talking about waxing... but a much more painful kind... figure it out.

thanks for the site, i'll be sure to spend every waking moment researching something before i ask a question so i can save some time and effort. I wouldn't want to inconvienience all of you who voluntarily post, and all.

^ I wasn't referring to you.

yeah, it was kinda hard to tell if it was a signature thing or not

black part of the base is grahite impregnated with polyerathane and the colored part of the base is p-tex. now on the base cleaner part NEVER use it. i use flurocarbons all time and the thing you need to do to clean out the fluro is use a non-fluro wax like 1-3 times on it just hotscraping and then put a fluro on top of that.