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+K for help! Questions regarding full metal bindings (i.e. N STH 16, FKS 18, Pivot 18, etc...)

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easy.steezy
Posts: 2931 - Karma: 1,056
Hello Newschoolers,

I'm in the market for new bindings for next year, and I can get a pair of N STH 16 bindings for a pretty fair price.

I don't ride super aggressively, I'm an East Coast skier that skis mainly park. I'm 5'10" 170 pounds. I currently ride 179 K2 Revivals with a pair of Marker Griffon Schizo's at a DIN of 8, so I'd have to bump that up to 9 or 10 for the new binding.

Is there such a thing as a binding that's "too aggressive"?

Is it worth the extra cash for the all metal binding, will it add so much durability that they will outlive the cheaper plastic ones?

How big of a difference will the added weight make?

+K for any help, thanks Newschoolers!
Mar 30 2013 10:40PM
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Blake.P
Posts: 9894 - Karma: 3,585
Don't change your din to fit a binding, get a binding that your din fits within the range. If you are t huge or skiing ridiculously aggressive, you don't need something full metal. If you really want metal, find a pair of fks 155's. built like the 18 but with a lower din range
Mar 31 2013 12:26AM
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VD.
Posts: 4054 - Karma: 4,565
This is very true, if you don't even register on the binding's DIN range, I think its fair to say you probably don't need it. At 8 you would sit comfortably in the DIN range of most 14DIN and 12DIN bindings. If I were you, and skiing at 8, I would keep skiing 12DIN bindings, unless you're having serious durability issues with 12DIN clamps. Although the durability issue may be more down to your choice of 12DIN bindings, the Griffon isn't the most durable of bindings, and I personally as well as many others have had quite a few problems with my Markers; I just recently broke a pair in ~25 days. There are other 12DIN bindings on the market which are quite a bit more durable, namely the Salomon STH12 Driver and the Rossignol Axial2 120/Look PX 12, see my review of the Rossi A.2 120 here -http://aslansskiblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/rossignol-axial2-120-ski-binding-review.html
Mar 31 2013 5:12AM
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Mag
Posts: 8155 - Karma: 14,809
Listen to this op.
Mar 31 2013 9:44AM
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easy.steezy
Posts: 2931 - Karma: 1,056
+K to all of you!

However, I can get a pair of N STH 16 bindings brand new for just over $150...and they have a din range of 9-16. Like I said, I ride at 8, but I have some friends who ride and 10 or 11 and are around the same size as me. I don't feel like it'd be a big jump, and honestly buying these would save me money compared to the STH 12 or 14, or even the Axial2 120.

Is it so bad to bump up DIN 1 or 2? I'm not super knowledgeable with DIN, I just went with what the shop set it at.
Apr 1 2013 3:03PM
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iffe
Posts: 984 - Karma: 120
NO DO NOT DO THIS.

Yes, it is a bad idea. If your DIN is too high, your bindings may not release properly and your risk of knee injury is increased a lot. Don't do it. Get bindings that fit your DIN value even if they cost a bit of extra.

Durable bindings for someone who rides DIN 8: Salomon STH12, STH14, Marker Jester, Look Pivot 14.

I ride DIN 8 on my park skis (I like them to release a bit easier) and 9 on my pow skis, and I use Pivot 14s. I've been very happy with the performance and durability, and I really recommend them.
Apr 1 2013 3:16PM
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Park.
Posts: 2480 - Karma: 4,582
well considering your on an 8 with marker bindings, going up with a binding that has an accurate din setting will be dangerous (Marker has a lower actual din setting than that marks) and honestly, it might not kill you, but it could definitely hurt you. granted, I haven't seen you ski, and that contributes hugely to the din you set, for example I have some FKS 14s on a 7 for my parks skis but my moguls skis I am rocking a pair of Look jib 14s on 9 because I ski very aggresively in moguls and need the extra din. Im not very big, but after a certain point in your skill level, staying in the binding is safer than coming out when you dont want it too... just my 2 cents
Apr 1 2013 9:56PM
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Caucasian_Asian
Posts: 2447 - Karma: 1,665
Ok. 
First of all, the STH16 is not a "full metal binding". 
Second, if you've decided you need a metal binding for durability, DO NOT choose one that does not suit your DIN setting.  1 or 2 can make a huge difference to your knee.  Just because your bros are riding at 9 or 10 does not mean that you should be riding at 9 or 10.
Third, if you're still thinking you need a "full metal binding" for durability, but want one with a more appropriate DIN range, look at the MOJO 15.  It goes from 5-15, which is perfect for you.
Apr 2 2013 11:27AM
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Fun_dip
Posts: 2623 - Karma: 913
Pretty sure he's referring to the STH16 Steel, which is all metal, but I could be wrong.
And pretty what everyone else has said in this thread is correct. Do not change your DIN unless you are popping out too much or have some other legitimate reason. Even if it it just bumping it up 1 notch it's not a good idea.
Apr 3 2013 5:37PM
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easy.steezy
Posts: 2931 - Karma: 1,056
Yeah I was referring to the N STH 16, which is full metal.

And thanks for all the help everyone! I'm probably gonna go with the STH 12/14 or FFG Team 14, whichever's cheaper. And if I can get a good deal on a pair of FKS or Pivots then I'll get those.
Apr 3 2013 9:17PM
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bnewbs6
Posts: 1919 - Karma: 1,463
How can you get a pair of them for 150? That's crazy good.
Apr 3 2013 9:47PM
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easy.steezy
Posts: 2931 - Karma: 1,056
I just searched Google shopping and they popped up on some site. Every other site was like $325+
Apr 3 2013 10:19PM
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Sharko
Posts: 2274 - Karma: 4,100
you are going to hurt yourself
Apr 3 2013 10:40PM
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Fun_dip
Posts: 2623 - Karma: 913
I don't know if you're set on New bindings or not but you can get any of those listed for sub 150. There's a killer deal on some used sth14s I think. PM me and ill link you to them if you're interested. Not 100% sure if they're still available, but its worth a shot.
Apr 4 2013 1:23AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
STH 16 steel is solid. Even if 9 DIN is OK for you they'd be overkill if you only weigh 170 and ski park. You'd be carrying a lot of extra weight.

But you should buy those and sell them for $300 at the start of next winter, then buy something more appropriate with the profits.
Apr 4 2013 3:04AM
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