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+k,this
How about getting pounded into the sea floor by literally tons of water if you bail on a 30ft curl?
Or maybe getting torn to shreds by coral reefs that lie under the surface?
Maybe you would prefer getting swept half a mile out to sea by violent riptides?
Google image surfing injuries with safesearch off if you want to get an idea of how hunky dory the sport really is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QliBL-AQiAY
Cant embed but if you watch this you will understand why this thread is over.
Being There - Strandafjellet segment from Field Productions on Vimeo.