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What film to use and when?

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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
This is more for 35mm and 120 film folks out there.

What types of film do you guys shoot and when/what situation do you use different film?

What are your favourites for shooting in certain situations/etc?

share experiences etc.
Jul 19 2012 12:29AM
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zahava
Posts: 7791 - Karma: 12,039
What do you guys think about pushing/pulling film. I want to start, but I'd eat it in developing costs, 1/2 over charge for 1 stop, double for 2 or 3 stops. Thats like $10 for a role of 400 at 3200.
Sep 10 2012 11:35PM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
You're going to Jackson this weekend as well? I might be heading up there as well if the fires don't get too out of hand...

As far as exposures with color film goes: color has a lot of latitude. In general you're mostly better of underexposing instead of overexposing, though I'm no expert on this.

Those blue colors in the city are BEAUTIFUL!
Sep 11 2012 12:23AM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
If you're going to use B/W film it shouldn't be that expensive right?

I know you love Ted Forbes' show (as do I), so you could probably shoot him a message. Try combining stand development with pushing. Could yield some cool results for sure I think!
Sep 11 2012 12:24AM
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s.erickson
Posts: 504 - Karma: 992
why wouldn't you just develop it yourself?
Sep 11 2012 1:07AM
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MACAQUE
Posts: 2811 - Karma: 696
I find that I can be +/- 1.5 stops on Ektar before I can tell the difference. On the Acros that I've been shooting over-exposure is the way to go.
Sep 11 2012 10:09AM
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zahava
Posts: 7791 - Karma: 12,039
I generally do the same, I not you end up with the highs being more grey z
Sep 11 2012 11:57AM
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zahava
Posts: 7791 - Karma: 12,039
*notice... And yeah, i've heard/seen a lot of people doing the same.
Sep 11 2012 12:17PM
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hollygrove
Posts: 7845 - Karma: 93
Yes, Silverfast is a better program, but after using both Silverfast and Epson Scan extensively, it will not bug you too much, I promise. If you're really feeling limited by Epson Scan you can always go torrent silverfast or whatever, but you'll be fine.
Sep 12 2012 10:43AM
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tomahawk
Posts: 2006 - Karma: 53
Forgot about this thread.

fuji 400h | Indie Film Lab

Good on greens.

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http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LTVKBsrZISY/UFA5wISW7pI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/TaQAys_ehmk/s1600/0955000060-R1-067-32.jpg[/IMG]

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gbgm9Ef1UJw/UFA4y-7sENI/AAAAAAAAAYo/HzqMNA2Tckk/s1600/0955000060-R1-021-9.jpg[/IMG]

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Sorry went a little crazy since this was my first roll of this film stock. The rest here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/eash06yu5wkqv5z/TuLN2uG_dr?m#/
Sep 13 2012 3:40AM
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tomahawk
Posts: 2006 - Karma: 53
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Sep 13 2012 3:42AM
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vandersteeze
Posts: 2650 - Karma: 1,511
I shot a backpacking trip with portra 400

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Landis I think your olive issues are only when you are in WA Sun ahah
Sep 13 2012 2:17PM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
Nice stuff S_Bum I'm digging the high eky
Sep 13 2012 9:48PM
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tomahawk
Posts: 2006 - Karma: 53
Thanks man, I just picked up a Mamiya C330f TLR. Can't wait to drop 1-2 bucks per frame now hahaha
Sep 13 2012 11:23PM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
Holy shit, where do you buy your film?
I love my TLR! You can buy B&W 120 film for like 3 bucks a roll... No way you spend 10$ per roll to develop it.
Sep 14 2012 12:08AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
Utah brah... living in Salt Lake Shitty nowadays.
Sep 14 2012 12:18AM
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vandersteeze
Posts: 2650 - Karma: 1,511
fuuuu we will never again have random encounters at stevens pass
Sep 14 2012 2:29AM
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BolderPro
Posts: 767 - Karma: 426
threads.
Nov 5 2012 8:18PM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
Overexposing is the way to go for B&W for sure. Love the details in the highlights with film
Dec 12 2012 12:18AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
Wait wut? Wouldn't you want to underexpose to get contrast in the highs?
Dec 12 2012 12:34AM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
thats how i've been shooting
Dec 12 2012 12:36AM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
B&W films retains detail much better in the highlights than in the shadows; opposite of digital, where the shadows hold much more info/detail than in the highlights.
That's why it's better to overexpose than underexpose with B&W film.
Dec 12 2012 12:36AM
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Brock.
Posts: 5698 - Karma: 1,332
Pushing B&W in the darkroom is painful, overexposing is the way to go for sure.
Dec 12 2012 12:40AM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
Pushing when printing?
I've found that with printing it's nicer to have a thinner negative for sure. Makes it easier to dodge and burn (in general).
Dec 12 2012 12:43AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
I still don't understand. I realize film in general is better with highlights, but regardless wouldn't you want to underexpose to get that dramatic contrast in the highs?

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Dec 12 2012 12:50AM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
In this case I guess you would, but in this case, the photo is severely underexposed (or at least, that's what it looks like on NS quality). Many crushed blacks without any detail in 'em.
Dec 12 2012 12:57AM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
check your monitor, i can see detail in all areas of the shot
Dec 12 2012 1:01AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
Weird, I can see detail in the blacks, even through they are "crushed."

I realize it's severely underexposed, but aesthetically this is what I consider perfect B&W exposure.
Dec 12 2012 1:07AM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
It's a beautiful picture of course and Koentjoro is a B&W genius, but this is a really dark picture. I guess it depends on what you shoot. It's just that because of the film characteristic, namely that it retains details in highlights much better than in shadows, most of the time it's better to overexpose than underexpose. I completely agree that for this picture it's much better to underexpose. What a beautiful exposure.

@Thomas: yeah, my MBP doesn't really have the best monitor...
Dec 12 2012 1:12AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
...assuming we want technically correct exposure? The last roll I shot I underexposed by 1.5 EV and it was still too bright for my tastes. I might go 3 EV next time.
Dec 12 2012 1:19AM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
just bracket exposures if you can....
Dec 12 2012 1:22AM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
Yes, for a technically correct exposure, which, for fine arts stuff, is rarely the right exposure (as can be seen from Koentjoro's work)
Dec 12 2012 2:10AM
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jeremy.g
Posts: 4931 - Karma: 459
when shooting b&w your exposure isnt going to effect highlights nearly like it will effect your darks and shadow tones. depending on what value your subject is you may want to over or underexpose a bit to either lighten or darken that subject. this isnt going to effect your highlights, whats going to is your development, and thats where pushing and pulling film comes in to control those highlights.
Dec 12 2012 2:02PM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,248
Bump for suggestions on 120 films, looking for a cheaper 400/800 CN film but I really dont think one exists anymore :\ Either portra 400/800 or fuji 400 pro h. Love them, would just like something cheaper
Mar 17 2013 5:55PM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,248
I only know of either*
Mar 17 2013 5:57PM
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TijmenDal
Posts: 4849 - Karma: 1,295
Shoot B&W. Color is for people with money.
Mar 17 2013 6:13PM
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BrightonFridays
Posts: 952 - Karma: 2,314
Ive shot a bit of potra. Pretty stoked on it

/Threads


Mar 17 2013 7:50PM
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BrightonFridays
Posts: 952 - Karma: 2,314
Anyone ever experiment or shot any infrared stuff?
Mar 17 2013 7:51PM
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Laurent.
Posts: 10056 - Karma: 25,313
I shoot Velvia 50 because I'm a rich bitch.


Mar 18 2013 8:36AM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
Anybody ever used Shanghai GP3? I'm considering buying a crapload, since you can snag them in bulk, made in china for around 2-3$ per roll... and it's B/W 100 iso, which is nice for fine grain stuff - which is what I tend to shoot anyways.

From everything I've seen, it looks really good, especially for the price.

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Aug 10 2013 10:31AM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
Also, just picked up some Ektachrome 160T off ebay for 25$. 5 roll pack that expired in 1998, but has been frozen ever since.

Never used Tungsten film before. I have no idea what to expect now that incandescent lighting isn't even remotely as popular as it once was. Excited to shoot some nighttime long exposures and even fuck around with it in daylight.

Aug 10 2013 10:44AM
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s.conway
Posts: 975 - Karma: 622
this is gonna be so helpful when i start getting into film soon
Aug 10 2013 9:17PM
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TWoods
Posts: 10014 - Karma: 8,386
Hey all - specific question.

I shot portra 400 and ektar 100 in brazil, using the built in light meter on my OM1 (center weighted) for exposure because I don't have an iphone or any other light meter.

Here's the problem - I shot 1 roll of 100 with my meter set to 400, so it's all underexposed. There's 1 specific portrait on there that I want, bad. Yea, I fucked up. SO my question is, what will be the consequences of pushing that roll a little in order to get a "correct" exposure with my film processing? As far as I know, it's an increase in contrast. Will that much pushing really fuck up my contrast, or will I be OK? Or should I only push it a little and fix with my scan / digital processing (i'll be scanning and running everything through lightroom).


Thoughts? Looking for opinions of people that have done this before, because I mostly shoot digi


Also, I do everything through a lab, so I won't have to worry about blowing it by doing it myself.


Aug 11 2013 3:30AM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
You can probably push it a stop without having the contrast go too crazy on you... although I have never personally pushed either of those films, I've pushed Portra 160 several times. Its given me slightly more contrast in the shadows, but really no negative change to the photograph. Maybe more grain.

From what I understand, Portra 400 has excellent control when underexposed. Overall, colour print film tends to colour shift after 2 stops, so try not to go too crazy.


Aug 11 2013 6:04AM
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Gospelfaith
Posts: 51 - Karma: 3
i want to use tri x. everyone i hear from says it's the best for home developing
Aug 11 2013 9:42AM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
push 1 stop, you'll be fine assuming you metered correctly and the scan tech is at last half way competent
Aug 11 2013 10:56AM
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TWoods
Posts: 10014 - Karma: 8,386
I'm scanning it myself, and I metered correctly for ISO 400 while shooting the 100, i'm certain of that... will pushing it one stop make up for it, or should I push it two? wouldn't 100 to 400 technically be 2 stops?
Aug 11 2013 12:05PM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
pushing ektar to 400 kind of defeats the point of the film, it's got plenty of latitude either way so a single stop push to 200 should be fine from my experience. When you push ektar it gets very saturated and contrasty quickly, and at 400 it might be a bit over powering for a portrait
Aug 11 2013 12:10PM
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TWoods
Posts: 10014 - Karma: 8,386
awesome, good to know. I bought ektar because I liked the characteristics of it as is, so I was pretty worried about pushing it... I'll definitely only push a stop. Pretty bummed to have made that mistake and not caught it.
Aug 11 2013 2:59PM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
I fucked up a roll of portra 400 and rated it all at 50 last week because I thought there was ektar inside, shit happens
Aug 11 2013 3:01PM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
been there, done that.
Aug 11 2013 9:20PM
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