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There are many different degrees of hand-made... there's profiling your cores with a router and some rails you made in your garage, and then there's profiling your cores with a gigantic CNC router that churns out 1000 a day within .01" of each other. In terms of consistency and quality, I'm inclined to say big companies have the edge... but they're also, due to sheer volume, more likely to let a REALLY bad ski slip through (i.e. one with a bad batch of resin that will delam in a day) and since there's a lot more out there you'll hear more about them breaking, naturally.
A statistic you're never going to see is failed (due to manufacturing faults) skis vs skis sold... I suspect the ratio would be higher for the small companies, to be honest.