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$40 DIY Glidecam, works well.

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[Tyler]
Posts: 33 - Karma: 470
I recently finished a DIY Glidecam project that I have been working on for about a year now and I figured some people could benefit from it. I first thought of Glidecams as a bit of an add on when it came to filming park but as more and more people got them I started to realize there more of an asset for filming park. I don't film park to to much so I really didn't want to throw down $300 on A Glidecam that I would really only use for filming park. I started to poke around online for ideas on how to make one myself after hours of searching I finally found a design that I liked. The design that I found was an awesome design but was really meant for a small camcorder and not a DSLR like I have; so after making 5 drafts I finally got it balanced and robust enough to hold and work with my t2i. I purchased all of the parts from my local hardware store, it pretty much consists of soldered copper fittings and skate bearings. Below is a picture of it, and an edit that I filmed a while ago with it. The edit was filmed when it was in its 4th draft and it was my first time ever using it so its not perfect but I thought the results came out pretty well even with spring slush. The 5th draft corrected a lot of things such as balancing and weighting issues so its a lot smoother now but all the snows gone so I can't film skiing anymore perfect timing NOT. If you are interesting in possibly building one like this I would recommend it, its cheap and for me it gets the job done pretty damn well for $50. The picture below was taken before it was painted so it looks a lot more sleek now with a fresh coat of black paint on it.

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Apr 6 2012 5:47PM
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oil.
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 1,254
was thinking about doing this over the summer.
directions for build?
Apr 6 2012 5:59PM
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Mar-O
Posts: 960 - Karma: 827
That looked really good for being a DIY stabilizer! Really want some direction on how to build it, any edits showing of the different parts of the stabilizer and some test shots in front of a mirror or something would be sick!
Apr 6 2012 6:03PM
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Mar-O
Posts: 960 - Karma: 827
also do you think that would work on the canon 7d with some medium heavy lenses and a mic? :D
Apr 6 2012 6:07PM
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[Tyler]
Posts: 33 - Karma: 470
I will put together a video on how I built it and what parts I used soon. I have my t2i, sigma 18-200mm, and a rode video mic and it holds well, its pretty heavy but nothing shifts or anything, my friend has a 7d so I can try and borrow that to see how it works.
Apr 6 2012 6:31PM
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oil.
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 1,254
cool, interested to see how it works with a 7d...
Apr 7 2012 1:31AM
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Moosen
Posts: 4285 - Karma: 2,585
threads
Apr 8 2012 12:01AM
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benyannelli
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threads
Apr 8 2012 10:50AM
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Benji.
Posts: 1146 - Karma: 88
Looks sick.
Apr 8 2012 1:04PM
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BigBadWolf
Posts: 2000 - Karma: 432
Threads for the video
Apr 8 2012 2:59PM
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dunesquirrel
Posts: 464 - Karma: 70
threadular
Apr 8 2012 3:14PM
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norgeanders
Posts: 1051 - Karma: 367
threads wanna know how you did this
Apr 8 2012 11:41PM
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[Tyler]
Posts: 33 - Karma: 470



The reason why I separated my build and the gimbal build is because the guy in the video below claimed he was going to make a sequel but never did so I made my own build for the rest of the Glidecam. If you have any questions on my build just reply to this thread. The gimbal build should be pretty straight forward because the guy explains it pretty well, the only difference is that I used Copper piping instead of CPVC. My friend who has the 7d is getting back from vacation in a two days so I will hopefully have some test footage up in like 4 or 5 days.


Parts For My Build

1 Package of 6 32 x 3/4 machine screws and nuts (for separating the two metal plates at the top of the Glidecam)

1 Package of 6 32 x 1-1/2 machine screws and nuts (for screwing on the washers at the bottom)

1 ¼-20x36 threaded rod (runs up the Glidecam)

4 coupling nuts 5/16-18 (What refer to as big nuts)

4 plate mendings 3-⅛” x 5” (What I refer to as metal plates)

A bunch of flat washers depending on the weight of your camera, get a bunch of different sizes so if your camera is only off by a little you have smaller washers to use.

1 package of adhesive felt pads ½ x 4” (soft adhesive strips that go on top of the Glidecam for better mounting surface for you camera)

1.5 feet of ¾” CPVC (Covers the threaded rod, doesn't have to be 1.5 feet just a long as you want your Glidecam to be which depends on your camera weight)



Gimbal Parts (Modified)

¾” Copper Tee (bearings don't fit as good in copper than they do in CPVC but after you solder the Copper almost shrinks a bit and seats the bearing pretty well)

¾” Copper 90º elbow

¾” CPVC Cap (cap goes on the bottom of gimbal handle)

1 foot of ¾” Copper Piping

1 roll of solder (The solder is used as CPVC cement)

1 blow torch

2-½” conduit strap

2 toilet bowl sets 5/16”

5/16” lock washers

5/16” nuts


Link To Gimbal Build: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CapjsF4uoc

Link On How To Solder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpHQ0WCDlFI&feature=related


The guy in the video explains all of the parts but he doesn’t use the parts I use exactly so thats why I listed all the parts I used.

Apr 12 2012 11:32AM
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Mar-O
Posts: 960 - Karma: 827
^thanks for making the vid! I am probably going to try this myself, looks sick! :D
Apr 12 2012 1:45PM
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mephotography
Posts: 318 - Karma: 90
bump...this is super dope man
Apr 15 2012 11:32AM
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PG_EDA
Posts: 472 - Karma: 786
I planned on building one aswell, so thank you very much for putting this thread together! awesome!
Apr 15 2012 6:11PM
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hot.pocket
Posts: 4224 - Karma: 10,614
Hopefully get to this someday
Apr 16 2012 2:53AM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
thredzz
Apr 19 2012 1:57PM
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BROBRO
Posts: 563 - Karma: 1,245
i like it!
Apr 19 2012 5:11PM
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TwinTipsy
Posts: 33 - Karma: 13
threads

Apr 20 2012 11:44AM
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ILoveOhio
Posts: 1793 - Karma: 253
Looks shaky to be honest but hey if you have 40 bucks to throw around and time on your hands why not try it..
Apr 20 2012 3:52PM
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SkierPT
Posts: 2177 - Karma: 4,720
Threads
Apr 22 2012 10:40AM
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DBL
Posts: 1405 - Karma: 2,218
Great job, threads
Apr 24 2012 7:24PM
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fitzcarraldo
Posts: 218 - Karma: 63
awesome job. threads.
Apr 25 2012 7:26AM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
I just finished my first draft!

Click for larger image

There are definitely some things that I need to work on.

OP: what did you do to balance it? any tips?

Also what are your measurements for the top and bottom? (see below)

Click for larger image
May 4 2012 1:16AM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
I watched your video again and mine is just like how you described at about 5:13 in your video.. what did you do to fix it?
May 4 2012 1:27AM
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SacZiplock
Posts: 2405 - Karma: 513
Looks impossible to balance perfectly , i you have the money well invest in a glidecam, best thing i ever bought
May 4 2012 11:55AM
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[Tyler]
Posts: 33 - Karma: 470
I put larger washers on the bottom plates of the glidecam to counter weight the camera. As far as the height of the glidecam goes I believe mine is about a foot and a half long and about 3 inches from the plate to the gimbal but I am planning on lengthening that so the gimbal doesn't hit the plate when I try to lower the glidecam. To balance it you should have from the gimbal and below weigh close to the exact weight of whatever setup you are running on top. I have read online that the closer you are to complete equilibrium the better the glide. Of course with a DIY setup you will never achieve complete equilibrium but you can get close (close enough to use it for skiing) and I suggest just adding/taking away washers from the bottom and testing it and once you get it to glide the way you like it tighten everything up so it doesn't move. From your pictures it looks like you have the design down all you need to do is add weights to the bottom and start tuning it until you get the balance you want. I also think that the distance between your gimbal and plate is perfect but I would take off about 5 inches from the bottom length or even more if your running a lighter camera with a light lens. I have looked at some glidecams and ive notice that if the gimbal is to close to the plate theres pretty much no use in balancing because it starts to become as if you are just holding the camera, but at the same time you don't want the gimbal in the center because its to unstable. So ya if you are still having trouble with the glidecam tilting ways you don't want it to just keep tuning and maybe drill another hole in the top plate to readjust the placement of the camera. Hope this helps.
May 4 2012 11:59AM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
Thanks for the reply! I'm gonna mess with it today.. But how did you fix the issue with it leaning foreward? Do you think I need to move my mounting hole for the camera backwards?
May 4 2012 2:00PM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
I plan on buying a glide cam but I have no where near enough money right now.. So for about $20 why not?
May 4 2012 2:04PM
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[Tyler]
Posts: 33 - Karma: 470
O ya I would drill another hole towards the opposite side that the glidecam is leaning or mess with the weights a bit.
May 4 2012 2:38PM
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SacZiplock
Posts: 2405 - Karma: 513
i meant if you really have the money ,
if not the project in op is a good alternative , worth it too you know ?
May 4 2012 4:06PM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
Exactly... im about $30 in now and it is like 100x better than hand held.. i accually got it pretty balanced today and it works really well (for the quality and price).
May 5 2012 3:48AM
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Linked
Posts: 325 - Karma: 216
Im thinking about making one but not sure whether to make one like his or more like these
May 8 2012 3:03AM
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[Tyler]
Posts: 33 - Karma: 470
I had that predicament a while back and I came to the conclusion that the style you mentioned has a lot less control seeing that there is nothing for you to hold on to to keep the camera facing where you want it too. They are very smooth and there a lot of cheap designs for them but skiing with one doesn't seem to practical because when you think about the wind that generates when you ski will pretty much render it useless because the rig that the camera is just very easy to be rotated away from what your filming. A glidecam has a design where its not effect by wind to much and keeps its position on what your filming better. Also you don't see many, if any, people using that design for skiing, but its up to you, I have never tried that design could work well.
May 8 2012 8:31AM
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Linked
Posts: 325 - Karma: 216
finished my and now have it pretty close to being balanced which takes awhile
May 29 2012 3:30AM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
which one did you make? pics? how'd it turn out?
May 29 2012 3:49AM
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C.A.V.
Posts: 1706 - Karma: 1,644
You should make them and sell them looks nice! Bump
May 29 2012 8:48AM
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Linked
Posts: 325 - Karma: 216
ill upload pics after the weekend when its painted
May 30 2012 4:05AM
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C.Wood
Posts: 2524 - Karma: 180
I designed this myself, cost of it was under 50$. I just finished it recently and never got the chance to use it while skiing. It is all aluminum so nothing will rust. i am designing a new one that will be better than my current one. i realized i went a little overkill on the diameter of pipe that i used. Plus my current one only has a 2-axis gimbal and I've figured out a kick ass design for a  3-axis gimbal which my next one will have.

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May 30 2012 4:08PM
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Linked
Posts: 325 - Karma: 216
how heavy is the aluminum one and what did u use for bearings
May 31 2012 12:21AM
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RZcrew
Posts: 366 - Karma: 2,209
threadsss
May 31 2012 12:43AM
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SkiJay.
Posts: 1550 - Karma: 653
what did you use for the top plate?
May 31 2012 4:15AM
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C.Wood
Posts: 2524 - Karma: 180
The whole body comes to just over 3 pounds, i weighed it on a scale for human weight so i couldn't see exactly what it came to. And this version doesn't have any bearings at all in it i just used teflon washers in between the pieces of aluminum that make up the gimbal to reduce friction.


To jrcoyotes21:

For the top plate and bottom plate is just made out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate and on the top plate some machining was done to add the chamfer on the outer edge and to put the slot in the middle
May 31 2012 9:39AM
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Ali.
Posts: 380 - Karma: 68
Threads for when i have time to read all of this. Looks really useful.
Jun 4 2012 5:01PM
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eheath
Posts: 61588 - Karma: 122,919
Yeah a 3 axis gimbal is pretty important, a 2 axis is almost worthless.
Jun 4 2012 5:06PM
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Mag
Posts: 8155 - Karma: 14,809
The only thing I don't understand Is how you connected the gimble to the rest of the pvc frame, did you use more skate bearings? and how many?
Jun 6 2012 6:49PM
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,467
threads fer sure. nice write up.
Jun 6 2012 7:14PM
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C.Wood
Posts: 2524 - Karma: 180
I completely agree, i learned that with my first version and realized that i definitely need the 3-axis
Jun 6 2012 7:51PM
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steezysteeze
Posts: 1739 - Karma: 1,012
http://balvanzenterprises.com/indexAlternate.html got the cheapest one they have but did some mods to it and now it works like a charm. Not too hard to balance eithor.
Jun 6 2012 9:16PM
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Mag
Posts: 8155 - Karma: 14,809
can somebody PLEASE explain to me how(and what) you connect to the drilled end of the T joint? I can't figure out anything that would work.
Jun 8 2012 8:59PM
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