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My passenger window is stuck, any help?

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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103

Alright so I have a 97 F150 and my passenger side window is stuck in the up position. My drivers side window works 100% fine. I took my door pannel off and tapped the motor with a hammer and no luck. When I hit my switch, I do NOT hear a clicking. Is this my switch or my motor?

Thanks guys

Mar 10 2012 4:39PM
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Bateman
Posts: 8591 - Karma: 8,600
Yo' bitch prolly dont need no air anyways.
Mar 10 2012 4:42PM
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DIX~
Posts: 4695 - Karma: 6,502
Sounds like your switch but I'm no expert
Mar 10 2012 4:42PM
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Lé.Skiing
Posts: 10035 - Karma: 8,128
buy adhesive bandages.   Place said bandages on rectum, because you sir are fucked.  


no but to be honest sounds like its the motor
Mar 10 2012 4:43PM
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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103
yeah im hoping its my switch. But both the switches on my passenger door and my drivers door wont make the passenger window move. Thats why im worried its my motor, unless they are wired in a circut. Are they?
Mar 10 2012 4:44PM
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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103
But if it was my motor I would hear it clicking wouldnt I?
Mar 10 2012 4:46PM
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DIX~
Posts: 4695 - Karma: 6,502
Well if one of your windows works sounds like it's your motor but it could be just a loose wire on your passenger side, I'd check for that
Mar 10 2012 4:46PM
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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103

Wires feel pretty good. But both windows are on seperate circuts. So I really dont know here if its my switch or not! Im guessing im just gunna have to buy a voltmeter eh?

Mar 10 2012 4:49PM
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powderdrunkie
Posts: 2034 - Karma: 976
window motors burn out. it wouldn't make a noise. it's like $40 for a new motor and it's relatively easy to replace.
Mar 10 2012 5:17PM
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Broken_Rides
Posts: 334 - Karma: 224

My '98 gots hand cranks. Only sticks in the winter

But seriously, check the wiring or use a voltmeter on the motor with a small battery.

Shit inside those doors are expensive.

'97 crown vic', 150 bucks for the mechanism that attaches to the motor.

If it is the motor go to a hobby shop and get a similiar motor for a fuck load cheaper, and rig something up in your metal working class.

Mar 10 2012 7:27PM
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KravtZ
Posts: 6637 - Karma: 2,629
my buddies got an expedition around the same years so built on the same basic platform....his 2 out of his 4 windows dont work. I think its probably the motor we just leave them up
Mar 10 2012 7:39PM
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chicken
Posts: 6843 - Karma: 2,123
yup.
Mar 10 2012 7:41PM
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Jib-Ninja
Posts: 2819 - Karma: 20
Just park that bitch over night, and start it up the next day and it will work. Or mabye it will take 2 days.

I remember my friend would always push my window up while using the switch as well, cuz it was kinda slow in my cutlass. We were rolling with the windows down smoking some cigs and it was cold out and hes like "fuck bro ur windows broke" and i was hella pised im like "u assfuck u broke it!"

Then we parked it at a party that night and woke up and we both got pussy that night and were stoked my window worked in the morning havnig a wake-up smoke.

I know cool story bro
Mar 10 2012 7:59PM
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ejm
Posts: 794 - Karma: 196
go to auto wreckers and buy a switch. If that doesnt work it's probably your motor or the wiring. At least its stuck in the up position tho.
Mar 10 2012 10:14PM
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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103
well guys, I think its the switch. I tested the wires going into the motor and they had no current. I tested my switches and they had current going in, and only some wires had current going out. I needed 3 wires to be hot when I push the switch, and only 1 is hot. So im guessing its the switch. Hopefully not the motor. Its a BITCH to replace. And expensive...
Mar 10 2012 11:37PM
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Sno.
Posts: 12155 - Karma: 6,152
probably been said, but at least it's stuck upright.
Mar 10 2012 11:39PM
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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103
yes very true. Im still not complaining. This is the ONLY thing wrong with this truck, and I got it for only 5 grand so im happy haha
Mar 10 2012 11:42PM
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tronned
Posts: 1098 - Karma: 790
you are not testing for current flow in a situation like this. You want to perform voltage drops. Check the wiring diagram, found the power wire for the switch, look for battery voltage there (12v). Find the ground wire for the switch, back probe the wires leading in the switch connector and stick one lead in the power wire, and one in the ground wire.... if you have 12v for that reading, you have verified the ground is good. Operate the switch and the same time testing for voltage at the window motor. While operated, it should be 12 volts or -12volts, depending on which way the window is operated because the motor works on reverse polarity to roll a window down. If you have 12 volts at your motor, repeat the ground test at the connector for the motor, if the ground is good. the motor is fucked. Very simple to diagnose a simple switch.
Mar 11 2012 12:17AM
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Stang*
Posts: 477 - Karma: 103
I have an analog tester. And they said im supposed to measure in DC? And my thing was, I had NO current going into the motor. I probed it right where it connects and got nothing. Im guessing that means my switch is broken, because its all on a circuit, if ones dead, nothing will work. Because the circuit isnt complete. Is my logic correct?
Mar 11 2012 12:31AM
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tronned
Posts: 1098 - Karma: 790
i have no idea with analog meters. I use a DVOM at work which is digital. No, the logic is wrong. If there is no load on the circuit, no current flow. Your motor doesnt work on the circuit therefore no current flow. Not to mention in order to measure current flow, you have to hook your meter into the circuit in series to the circuit you are testing. You need a DC voltage checking device like a multimeter, go spend 20 bucks and get a cheap one. Not to mention you have ignored the fact that all electrical circuits have to have a proper ground, which is a common failure in most electrical circuits. The first electrical diagnosis you ALWAYS do first on a car is check for voltage at problem.
Mar 11 2012 1:01AM
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